IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-S) 


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S  Iff  IIS 

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\A.  11.6 


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Sciences 
Corporation 


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CIHM/ICMH 

Microfiche 

Series. 


CiHM/ICMH 
Collection  de 

microfiches. 


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Technical  and  Bibliographic  Notes/Notes  techniques  et  bibliographiques 


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n 


Coloured  covers/ 
Couverture  de  couleur 


I      I    Covers  damaged/ 


Couverture  endommagie 

Covers  restored  and/or  laminated/ 
Couverture  restaur^  et/ou  pelliculAe 

Cover  title  missing/ 

Le  titre  de  couverture  manque 

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Bound  with  other  material/ 
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Coloured  pages/ 
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This  item  is  filmed  at  the  reduction  ratio  cheeked  below/ 
Ce  document  est  film*  au  taux  de  reduction  indiqu*  ci-dessous 
^OX  14X  18X  22X 

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16X 


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26X 


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The  copy  filmed  here  has  been  reproduced  thanks 
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shall  contain  the  symbol  — ^>  {meaning  "CON- 
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whichever  applies. 

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beginning  in  the  upper  left  hand  corner,  left  to 
right  and  top  to  bottom,  as  many  frames  as 
required  The  following  diagrams  Illustrate  the  , 
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L'exemphire  film6  fut  reproduit  grAce  it  la 
g4n6rosit6  de: 

La  bibllothdque  des  Archives 
publiques  du  Canada 

Les  inr  ges  suivantes  ont  6t6  reproduites  avec  le 
plus  '    ind  soin,  compte  tenu  de  la  condition  et 
de  la  .lettetA  de  Texemplaire 'fllm6,  et  en 
conformity  avec  les  conditions  du  contrat  de 
filmage. 

Les  exemplaires  originaux  dont  la  couverture  en 
papier  est  Imprim6e  sont  filmds  en  commengant 
par  le  premier  plat  et  e;i  terminant  solt  par  la 
dernlAre  page  qui  comporte  une  empreinte 
d'impression  ou  d'lllustratlon,  solt  par  le  second 
plat,  selon  le  cas.  Tous  les  autres  exemplaires 
originaux  sont  film6s  en  commengant  par  la 
premiere  page  qui  comporte  une  empreinte 
d'impression  ou  d'lllustratlon  et  en  terminant  par 
la  dernidre  page  qui  comporte  une  telle 
empreinte. 

Un  des  symboles  sulvants  apparaftra  sur  la 
derniire  image  de  cheque  microfiche,  selon  le 
cas:  le  symbols  — ^  signifie  "A  SUIVRE  ",  le 
symbols  V  signifie  "FIN". 

Les  cartes,  planches,  tableaux,  etc.,  peuvent  dtre 
film6s  A  des  taux  de  reduction  dlff6rents. 
Lorsque  le  document  est  trop  grand  pour  Atre 
reproduit  en  un  seul  clich6,  it  est  fllm«  A  partir 
de  I'angle  sup6rieur  gauche,  de  gauche  d  droite, 
et  de  haut  en  bas,  en  prenant  le  nombre 
d'images  n6cessaire.  Les  diagrammes  suivants 
illustrent  la  mdthode. 


1 

2 

3 

6 


31st  CoN>:jREsa, 
1st  Session, 


[HO.  OF  REPS.] 


Ex.  Doc. 
No.  51. 


PEMBINA  SETTLEMENT. 


LETTER 


FROM 


THE    SECRETARY   OF    WAR, 


TRANSMITTING 


Report  of  Major  Wood,  relative  to  his  expedition^to  Pembina  Settlement 
and  the  condition  of  ajfairs  on  the  North-Wcstei*n  frontier  of  the       ' 

'1  erritory  of  Minnesota. 


March  19,  1850. 
Referred  to  the  Committee  on  Military  Aflaiu,  and  ordered  to  be  printed. 

* 

Wak  Department, 
„         - ,  ,     ,  Washington^  F^b.  25,  1850. 

biR  :  1  have  the  honor  to  transmit  herewith  the  report  i  f  iVlajor  Woods 
(he  officer  of  the  Array  despatched  to  Perabina  settlement,  or  to  the  Red 
nver  of  the  North,  under  the  orders  of  the  Secretary  of  War,  in  the  sum- 
mer of  1849,  with  such  other  documents  relating  to'said  expedition  as  are 
m  possession  of  this  Department,  tendinf  to  show  the  condition  of  affairs 
on  the  north-western  frontier  of  the  territory  of  Minnesota,  in  answer  to  a 
resolution  of  the  House  of  Representatives  of  the  13th  instant. 

The  report  of  Brevet  Capt.  John  Pope,  of  the  Topographical  Corps  is 
daily  expected  and  when  obtained  will  be  laid  before  you.     The  delay  at 
tending  the  report  of  Capt.  Pope,  it  is  alleged,  has  arisen  from  affliction 
in  his  family. 

I  have  the  honor  to  be,  very  respectfully,  your  obed't  serv't, 

GEORGE  W.  CRAWFORD, 

„       -T  «  Secretary  of  War. 

Hon.  Howell  Cobb,  "^ 

Speaker  of  tlie  House  .of  Reps. 

Adjutant  General^s  Offtck, 
„  Washington,  Jlpril  18th,  1849. 

^TR:  It  is  proposed  to  establish  a  new  military  post  on  or  near  the  Red  river 
of  the  North  and  at  a  distance  from  Fort  Gaines  not  exceeding  200  miles, 
lor  this  purpose  it  is  necessary  to  make  a  military  examination  of  that 
country.  You  are  assigned  to  this  duty,  which  you  will  proceed  to  exe- 
cute as  soon  after  the  receipt  of  these  orders  as  may  be  practicable.  The 
military  force  under  your  command  on  the  expedition  will  be  the  company 
ot  Dragoons  (D)  now  at  Fort  Snelling  and  destined  for  the  garrison  of 
lort  Gaines.  You  will  proceed  to  the  region  of  the  Red  river  of  the  North 
by  the  way  of  Fort  Gaines  or  such  other  route  as  you  may  deem  best,  and 


t^<c 


2 


Doc.  No.  51. 


on  the  completion  of  this  duty  you  will  return  to  your  proper  station.  You 
will  extend  the  examination  as  far  north  as  the  boundary  of  the  U.  States, 
Hiul  report  to  this  ofhce  all  the  information  you  may  be  able  to  collect  in 
itgard  to  the  best  location  of  a  military  post  in  that  region,  in  respect  of 
healtli,  subsistence,  facilities  of  building  and  access,  and  all  other  advan- 
tages which  in  your  judgment  and  experience  will  suggest. 

The  establishment  of  this  post,  as  all  other  military  posts  in  the  Indian 
country,  being  witu  a  view  to  our  Indian  relations,  you  will  also  collect 
aud  report  all  the  information  you  can  obtain  of  the  number,  character  and 
habits  of  the  Indians  in  that  region,  their  means  of  subsistence,  their  dis- 
jtosition  towards  the  United  States,  and  the  influence  exerted  on  them  by 
the  Hudson's  Bay  Company  by  trade,  presents  or  otherwise. 

It  is  not  doubted  that  the  company  of  dragoons  assigned  to  your  com- 
mand for  this  expedition  "s  a  sufficient  military  escort ;  but  at  our  distance 
from  that  remote  frontier  and  from  the  best  means  of  information,  the  ques- 
lion  must  be  committed  to  your  judgment.  If  you  shall  be  of  the  opinion 
from  your  knowledge  of  the  state  of  the  Indian  tribes  in  that  country,  that 
llie  expedition  cannot  safely  bo  undertaken  with  the  force  assigned  you, 
you  will  delay  your  march  and  report  forthwith  to  this  office  for  further  in- 
structions. 

A  medical  officer  and  officer  of  Topographical  Engineers  will  be  ordered 
1o  report  to  you.  You  will  transmit  such  topographical  reports  and  maps 
as  the  nature  of  your  march  may  enable  the  topographical  officer  to  prepare. 

A  copy  of  the  letter  of  the  Secretary  of  the  Interior  to  the  Secretary  of 
War,  in  consequence  of  which  this  expedition  has  been  ordered,  is  herewith 
sent  you,  that  you  may  better  compreh':^nd  the  objects  the  government  have 
ill  contemplation  in  that  country. 

It  is  unnecessary  to  direct  your  attention  to  the  importance  of  cultivating 
a  good  feeling  on  the  part  of  the  Indians  you  may  meet  towards  the  United 
States,  and  of  impressing  upon  them  the  necessity  of  peace  araong  them- 
selves. 

Respectfullv, 
(Signed)  '    R.  JONES, 

Adft  Gewl. 
Jlvt.  Maj.  Samuel  Woods, 

dipt,  (ith  Infantry,  Fort  SneMing,  Iowa. 

Departmknt  of  Tur,  Interior, 

Washington,  4th  April,  1849. 

Siu :  I  have  the  honor  to  submit  for  your  consideration  a  letter  of  the  3d 
iu^t.  from  the  Commissioner  of  Indian  Affiiirs,  with  the  copies  of  papers 
lliurein  transmitted,  in  relation  to  the  present  condition  of  our  Indian  af- 
J.iirs  on  the  Upper  iMississip[)i  and  near  the  line  between  our  territory  and 
tiiat  of  the  British  Government,  as  deserving  early  attention. 

The  develoj)ments  therein  mad(!  apj)ear  to  be  such  as  to  render  it  expedient 
tliat  some  measures  should  be  adopted  to  correct  the  evils  which  must  ne- 
cessarily grow  out  of  the  present  state  of  things  in  that  region,  not  only 
with  a  view  to  ihe  peace  and  safety  of  our  own  citizens,  but  to  protect  the 
Iiiiiians  from  future  suffering,  as  well  as  prevent  border  difficulties. 

I.  pon  consideration  it  appears  to  me  that  the  most  certain  method  to 
remedy  the  present  and  prevent  anticipated  evils,  would  be  to  cause  a 
treaty  tn  be  made   with  a  view  of  jiurchasing  a  moderate:  portion  of  the 


ri 


Doc.  No.  51. 


3 


r. 


Indian  country  adjacent  to  our  boundary  line,  and  upon  the  Red  river  of 
the  North,  and  thereby  open  the  country  to  agricultural  settlement,  for 
which  It  IS  represented  to  be  well  adapted,  and  place  withinour  own  limits 
a  body  of  citizens  ready,  not  only  to  observe  our  laws  respecting  inter- 
course with  the  Indians,  but  willing  and  able  to  prevent  any  violations  of 
them  or  incursions  into  our  territory  by  those  connected  with  the  British 
settlements  north  of  the  boundary. 

As,  however,  the  formation  of  such  a  settlement  might  be  the  work  of 
three  or  four  years,  I  am  of  opinion  that  the  establislfment  of  a  military 
post  at  some  suitable  point   near  the  line,  at  an  early  day,  would  greatly 
tend,  in  the  mean  while,  to  accomplish  the  objects  which  are  deemed  im- 
portant. 

By  making  a  purchase  from  the  Indians,  they  would  necessarily  be 
brought  under  the  more  immediate  control  and  influence  of  our  agents,  and 
becoming  more  dependent  upon  them,  would  be  much  more  easily  con- 
trolled, while  the  influence  now  exercised  over  them  by  the  agents  of  the 
Hudson  Bay  Company  would  be  proportionately  decreased. 

(Signed)  ''       ''t.  EWING, 

SccrctdTVt 
To  the  President  ., 

Of  the  United  Stales, 


Department  of  the  Interior, 
„         ^,  ,  Officeof  Indian  Affairs,  .'ipril  3,1849. 

SIR  :  1  have  the  honor  to  submit  herewith,  for  your  information  and 
consideration,  copies  of  a  report  and  accompanying  papers,  recently  re- 
ceived from  J.  E.  Fletcher,  Esq.,  Indian  Agent  on  the  Upper  Missouri,  in 
relation  to  the  state  of  affairs  on  our  north-western  boundary  line   in  the 
vicinity  of  the  Red  river  of  the  North,  which  would  seem  to  require  some 
attention  from  our  government,  in  order  to  prevent  ir'ustice  being  done  to 
our  citizens  engaged  in  trade  with  the  Indians,  by  unlawful  and  injurious 
interference  of  British  subjects,  and  to  put  a  stop  to  our  Indians  being 
supplied  with  ardent  spirits,  and  the  great  destruction  of  the  game,  by 
persons  from  the  British  side  of  the  line.     The  great  and  wanton  destruc- 
tion of  the  buffalo,  it  is  known,  is  becoming  a  serious  evil,  and  has  already 
caused  much  discontent  among  our  Indians,  leading  in  one  or  two  in- 
stances to  the  murder  of  persons  unlawfully  on   our  side  of  the   line. 
These  buffalo  are  almost  the  only  means  of  subsistence  for  some  fifty  or 
sixty  thousand  Indians  in  that  region  and  the  Upper  Missouri.     They  are 
rapidly  diminishing  in  numbers,  and  their  range  becoming  more  and  more 
circumscribed,   and   they  must   soon   disappear  unless    some   means   be 
adopted  to  prevent  their  great  annual  and  unnecessary  destruction   by 
other  jjcrsons  than  our  Indians.     Tlieir  rapid  decrease  and  more  circum- 
scribed range,  must  in  a  few  years  bring  the  tribes  in  that  quarter  into 
comj)etition  for  them,  \vhich  will  lead  \o  sanguinary  and  exterminating 
wars,  or  cause  those  tribes  or  some  of  them  to  preripi'tato  themselves  upon 
our  trontier  Indians,  and  our  advanced  settlements,  in  order  to  procure  the 
means  of  subsistence. 

For  the  protection  of  British  citizens  and  the  preservation  of  peace  and 


;,' '•  I    ■L'ii   liivu    suit;  \n     tut;    jluc,      Ijtic 


13  a  lunrsidcrablc  Military  Post 


on  the  Red  river  of  the  North,  not  far  from  the  line,  at  which  there  was 


Doc.  No.  51. 


not  long  since,  and  probably  is  now,  a  force  of  about  four  hundred  men  ; 
and  the  subject  herein  submitted  would  seem  to  involve  the  question  of 
the  expediency  and  propriety  of  a  post  on  our  side  for  similar  purposes. 
I  have  the  honor  to  be,  very  respectfully  your  obedient  servant, 
(Signed)  'WILLIAM  MEDILL, 

Commissioner  of  Indian  AJfairs. 
Hon.  Thomas  Ewing, 

Secretary  of  the  Interior. 

St.  Peters, 
Winnebago  Agency,  February  12,  1849. 
Sir  :  In  obedience  to  instructions  contained  in  your  letter  of  26th  May, 
1848,  I  have  availed  myself  of  my  position  to  ascertain  the   facts  "  in 
relation  to  the  intercourse  said  to  be  carried  on  between  the  British  trading 
posts  and  population  on  the  Red  river  of  the  North  and  in  that  vicinity 
and  our  frontier  settlements  and  the  ntermediate  Indian  tribes.     From  the 
information  obtained,  I  am  convinced  that  erdent  spirit  has  for  several 
years  past,  been  introduced  into  the  country  occupied  by  Indians  south  of 
our  Northern  boundary  line,  by  subjects  of  the  British  government  and  by 
them  disposed  of  to  the  Indians.     The  statement  of  Mr.  Bcaulieu  here- 
with transmitted,   proves  the  existence  of  the  traffic  in  September  Inst. 
Mr.  Rice's  letter,  enclosed  herewith,  also  contains  important  information 
on  the  subject.     I  have  conversed  with   several  gentlemen  of  intelligence 
Avho  are  acquainted  with  the   community  in  the  neighborhood  of  the  Red 
river  of  the  North,  and  some   of  tliem   residents  there;   they  all   confirm 
the  fact  that  ardent  spirit  is  every   year  introduced  among  the    Indians 
within  our  limits  in  that  section  of  the  country,  by  British  subjects.    With 
reo-ard  to  the  extent  of  this  traffic,  I  have  been  unable  to  obtain  definite 
and  satisfactory  information.     From  the  nature  of  the  trade  it  is  very  dilTi- 
cult,  if  not  impossible  to  ascertain  the  amount  of  capital  employed  in  it ; 
the  quantity  of  liquoi  sold  or  disposed  of  to  the  Indians.     Menengaged 
in  a  traffic  in  violation  of  law  do  not  exhibit  a  manifesto.     I  was  informed 
last  summer,  by  Mr.   Norman  W.  Kittson,  a  licensed  trader  residing  at 
Pembina,  who  has  four  trading  posts  on  or  near  our  northern  boundary 
line,  that  the  amount  of  ardent   spirits  then  vended  by  Briiish  settlers  to 
the  Indians  within  our  boundaries  on  that  frontier,  was  not  so  great  as 
formerly.     I  have  recently  had  information  that  Mr.  Kittson  has  written 
to  a  gentleman  at  St.  Peters  that  the  traders  of  the  Hudson  Bay  Company 
have  during  a  few  months  past  been  engaged  somewhat  extensively  in  in- 
troducing liquor  among  the  Indians  within  our  limits.     (I  requested  to  see 
Mr.  Kittson's  letter  and  was  told  that  it  had  been  forwarded  to  Mr.  Sibley 
at  Washington.    I  presume  the  Department  had  come  in  possession  of  the 
infoi-mation  contained  in  it.)     The  object  which  the  British  traders  have 
in  supplying  the  Indians  with  ardent  spirits,  is  to  break  down  the  Ameri- 
can traders.     They  annoy  and  discommode  our  traders  by  purcliasing  with 
whisky  all  the   surplus  provisions  the  Indians  have  to    dispose   of;  but 
they   injure  our  traders  most  by   preventing  them   from  obtaining   furs. 
While  the  Indians  can  ol)lain  liquor,  they  will  not  hunt,  and  having  no 
money,  nothing  can  be  made  out  of  trade  with  them. 

From  the  most  authentic  information  I  can  obtain  on  the  subject,  I  con- 
clude that  about  twenty  thousand  buffalo  are  killed  annually  within  the 
country  occupied  by  the  Sioux  and  Chippewa  Indians  south  of  our  northern 


ii 


a 


in 


1. 


Doc.  No.  51.  5 

boundary,  by  half  breeds  from  the  British  side  of  the  line.  Mr.  Kittson 
estimates  the  population  of  Red  river  within  the  British  territory  at  six 
thousand,  and  that  one-third  of  this  population  subsist  byhuntinfr  buffalo 
on  the  American  side  of  the  line.  The  destruction  of  the  buffalo  is  a 
heavy  tax  on  our  Indians,  particularly  the  Sioux.  It  is  not  strange  that 
quarrels  have  occasionally  arisen  on  account  of  this  trespass;  they  would 
undoubtedly  have  been  much  more  frequent  but  from  the  fact  that  the 
half  breeds  go  on  their  bufflilo  hunts  in  parties  sufficiently  strong  to  protect 
themselves. 

With  reference  to  attempts  mside  by  British  subjects  to  alienate  and 
disaffect  the  Indians  within  our  limits,  towards  our  government,  I  am  in 
possession  of  no  information  more  definite  than  that  contained  in  Mr. 
Rico's  letter.  Neither  am  I  in  possession  of  any  facts  that  go  to  prove 
that  the  British  government  have,  lately,  done  or  sanctioned,  directly, 
ought  to  excite  or  prejudice  the  Indians,  within  our  borders,  against  our 
governinent.  It  may,  perhaps,  be  just  grounds  for  remonstrance  against 
the  British  government,  that  its  subjects  are  grc;,sly  violating  our  laws  by 
introducing  ardent  spirits  among  our  Indians,  and  by  holding  councils 
with  these  Indians  for  the  purpose  of  prejudicing  them  against  our  govern- 
ment, and  against  the  system  of  trade  provided  or  sanctioned  by  our 
government  for  their  benefit. 

Your  honor  saw  fit  to  instruct  me  to  recommend  to  the  department 
such  measures  as  I  might  consider  advisable  to  be  adopted,  to  put  a  stop  to 
evils  arising  from  the  existing  state  of  affairs  on  our  northern  frontier. 
While  I  duly  appreciate  the  honor  of  being  consulted  in  referc-nce  to  this 
important  subject,  I  find  difficulty  in  deciding  how  to  discharge  tlie  duty 
assigned  me.  There  are  some  evils  which,  owing  to  the  circumstances 
attending  them,  seem  not  to  justify  the  application  of  an  adequate  remedy. 
Presuming  on  the  continuance  of  our  present  amicable  relations  with  the 
British  government,  so  long  as  tiie  Indians  on  our  northern  frontier  con- 
tinue pence. d)ly  disposed  toward  us,  the  occasional  violation  of  our  trade 
and  intercourse  law  among  bands  with  whom  we  have  no  special  treaty 
relations,  and  the  protection  of  the  small  amount  of  licensed  trade  carried 
on  by  our  citizens  there,  would  not  seem  to  warrant  the  heavy  expenditure 
necessary  to  be  incurreil  by  our  government  in  order  to  enforce,  on  that 
extreme  frontier,  a  rigid  observance  of  our  laws  regulating  trade  and  inter- 
course with  the  Indian  tribes  ;  but  a  careful  examination  of  the  subject  in 
all  its  bearings,  leads  to  a  dili'erent  conclusion.  It  is  considered  the  true 
policy  of  a  government  to  provide  against  adverse  contingencies,  liable  at 
any  time  to  arise.  The  military  force  to  which  the  protection  of  this 
frontier  is  assigned,  is  not  sufficiently  strong.  In  the  event  of  a  hostile 
movement  on  the  part  of  the  Indian's,  the  citizens  living  on  this  frontier 
would  be  exposed  to  great  danger  and  suffering;  and  in  tiie  event  of  a 
war  with  Mnglaiid,  it  is  bclievecl  thrit  the  influence  acquired  and  now  held 
over  a  consi(lerable  portion  of  the  Indians  on  our  northern  frontier,  by  the 
Hudson  Bay  Company,  principally  by  means  of  a  monopoly  of  trade  with 
them,  Would  enable  the  British  Governinent  to  enlist  these  Indians  as 
allies  against  us.  It  may  be  saiil  that  these  events  are  not  likely  to 
hapjien  ;  still  the  liability  exists,  and  prudence  dictates  that  it  should  be 
guarded  against  in  lime.  The  jirincipal  arti'-lcs  furnished  in  trade  with 
our  northern  Indians,  are  of  British  manufacture:  exemption  from  duty  on 
these  nrliclcs,  gives  the  Hudson  Bay  Company  a  ^     "  "    " 


,\,„ 


,.N- 


6 


Doc.  No.  51. 


our  citizens  engaj^ed  in  trade  wilh  these  Indians.  A  drawback  on  the 
duty  paid  by  our  citizens  on  goods  for  the  Indian  trade  and  taken  north  of 
a  given  line,  would  remedy  the  inequality  now  existing  between  our 
traders  on  the  frontier  and  that  company ;  but  this  remedy  would  be  liable 
to  abuse,  and  its  adoption  would,  at  best,  be  of  doubtful  expediency.  Still 
it  is  important  that  our  licensed  traders  among  the  Indian  tribes  on  our 
northern  frontier  should  be  sustained,  and  especially  important  that  they 
should  be  sustained  among  those  tribes  and  bands  with  wdiom  our  govern- 
ment has  no  treaty  relations.  It  would  evidently  be  both  just  and  sound 
policy,  for  our  government  to  afford  to  its  citizens  who  are  engaged  in  this 
trade  the  protection  they  ask,  namely,  protection  against  British  rum,  and 
British  smugglers. 

In  view  of  existing  evils,  and  in  view  of  still  greater  eviis  liable  to  arise 
on  our  northern  frontier,  I  would  respectfully  submit  to  the  Department, 
that  in  my  opinion  the  most  judicious  measure  that  can  be  adopted  to  put 
a  stop  to  these  evils  and  preserve  peace  on  said  frontier,  would  be  for  our 
government  to  establish  a  military  post  at  some  suitable  point  in  the 
neighborhood  of  the  Red  river  of  the  North,  and  near  our  northern  line, 
sufficiently  strong  to  enforce  obedience  to  our  trade  and  intercourse  laws, 
and  to  overarve  the  Indians  and  keep  them  under  proper  subjection  to  our 
government ;  and  also  to  prevent  the  desolating  wars  which  frequently 
are  among  the  Indians  themselves.  In  connection  with  this  measure,  I 
think  the  plan  suggested  by  Mr.  Rice,  in  his  letter,  for  putting  a  stop  to 
the  trespass  committed  on  the  lands  of  the  Sioux  and  Chippewa  Indians 
by  British  subjects,  is  worthy  of  consideration.  The  country  bordering  on 
Red  river  is  represented,  by  those  who  have  traveled  there,  to  be  desirable, 
the  soil  good,  ind  well  adapted  to  agricultural  purposes.  In  case  our 
government  should  purchase  of  the  Indians  a  portion  of  that  country,  and 
throw  it  open  for  settlement,  it  is  believed  that  a  majority  of  the  half-breeds 
now  living  within  the  British  limits  would  emigrate  south  of  the  linf,  and 
place  themselves  under  the  protection  and  laws  of  the  United  States,  nnd 
would  form  an  eflicient  auxiliary  for  the  protection  of  our  frontier.  Some 
of  our  citizens  would  emigrate  there,  and  a  military  post  could  be  supplied 
then  with  forage  and  provi"'  'ns  at  a  moderate  expense.  Said  country,  if 
purchased,  would  I  suppose  i -impose  a  part  of  Alinnesota  Territory,  and 
would  occasion  but  a  trilling  additional  expense  annually  to  our  govern- 
ment. 

"  In  reference  to  the  extent  to  which  the  intercourse  of  the  British 
settlers  north  of  us  with  our  citizens  through  the  Indian  country  should  be 
permitted,  and  the  restrictions  under  and  mode  by  which  it  should  be  car- 
ried on,"  I  have  to  say  that,  so  far  as  I  have  been  able  to  ascertain,  this 
intercourse  through  the  Indian  country  with  our  citizens  in  this  section, 
say  at  Crow  Wing,  St.  Peters,  St.  Pauls  and  the  commercial  towns  south 
of  St.  Pauls  on  the  Mississippi,  has  not  been  carried  on  to  any  great 
extent;  and  that,  in  my  opinion,  this  intercourse,  if  conducted  in  strict 
conformity  with  existing  laws  and  regulations,  in  time  of  peace  is  not 
objectionable,  and  may  safely  be  permitted.  The  pern\ission  granted  to 
foreigners  to  travel  in  and  through  the  Indian  country,  is  liable  to  abuse, 
and  has  in  some  instances  been  abused  in  this  section  of  the  Indian  country. 
A  considerable  quantity  of  whisky  was,  in  the  summer  of  1847,  taken 
from  St.  Pauls  through  the  Indian  country  to  Red  river.  A  man  by  the 
name  of  Wells,  I  am  informed,  took  throuofh  the  Indian  countrv  that 


1 


u 


Doc.  No.  51.  7 

season,  some  twenty  barrels  of  this  article.  A  proper  vigilance  on  the 
part  of  the  Indian  Agent  at  St.  Peters,  and  on  the  part  of  the  officers  at 
Fort  Snelling,  would  have  detected  and  punished  this  violation  of  law. 
It  is  believed  that  very  little  if  any  ardent  spirit  has  been  taken  through 
the  Indian  country  the  past  season.  I  have  examined  most  of  the  loads'of 
goods  and  provisions  that  have  passed  through  the  country  to  Red  river. 
The  position  of  tlie  officers  at  Fort  Snelling  and  Fort  Marcy,  and  the 
position  of  the  Indian  Agent  at  this  place,  with  the  means  of  information 
always  at  command,  will,  with  due  diligence  and  the  exercise  of  a  sound 
discretion,  always  enable  them  to  restrict  the  intercourse  of  British  sub- 
jects and  other  foreigners,  through  this  section  of  the  Indian  country, 
within  proper  limits.  If  a  military  post\should  be  established  near  our 
northern  boundary  on  Red  river,  the  officer  in  command  there  would  be 
able  to  prevent  the  introduction  of  contraband  articles,  and  the  ingress  of 
improper  persons  from  the  north.  I  consider  that  the  existing  law  con- 
tains all  that  is  necessary  in  relation  to  the  intercourse  of  foreigners 
through  the  Indian  country.  I  have  long  been  of  the  opinion  that  the 
protection  of  the  Indians  requires  some  additional  restrictions  relative  to 
the  privilege  allowed  our  citizens  to  travel  in  and  through  the  Indian 
country.  My  views  on  this  subject  were  briefly  submitted  in  my  report 
ofethof  October,  1847. 

_  The  foregoing  is  the  result  of  the  limited  investigation  which  I  have 
hitherto  been  able  to  give  this  subject,  and  is  respectfully  submitted  to  the 
consideration  of  the  Department. 

I  have  the  honor  to  be  very  respectfully.  Sir,  your  obedient  servant, 
(Signed)  J.  E.  FLETCHER,  Indimi  Afrent. 

Hon.  William  Medill, 
Commissioner-  of  Indian  Jljfairs,  Washington,  I).  C. 

I,  the  undersigned,  of  Crow- wing  river.  Upper  Mississippi  river,  doth 
say,  that  in  the  summer  of  1848  I  was  employed  as  Assistant  Agent  in  tlie 
corps  of  the  United  States  Geologist,  exploring  the  valleys  west  of  the 
Mississippi  river,  as  far  north  to  the  boundary  line.  That  on  the  fifth  day 
of  September  last  we  landed  at  the  S.  W.  end  of  Craine  Lake  Portage,  on 
the  American  shore,  being  about  18  or  20  miles  from  the  boundary  line. 
Here  I  found  a  party  of  5  men  belonging  to  the  Hudson  Bay  Company, 
peddling  out  liquor  to  the  Indians  in  exchange  for  rice,  and  I  saw  four 
drunken  Indians  on  the  premises  ;  I  also  furnished  money  to  one  of  our 
men  to  buy  liquor.  After  a  long  conversation  Avith  Francois  Mainville, 
the  clerk,  he  asked  me  to  take  a  dram  of  good  rum  with  him.  I  accepted 
the  offer,  and  took  a  glass  of  good  rum,  and  left  him. 

Saint  Peters,  January  11, 1849.       (Signed)     BAZIL  H.  BEAULIEU. 

Bazil  H.  Beaulieu  made  oath  before  me  to  the  truth  of  the  above  state- 
ment.— January  12,  1849. 

(Signed)        J.  E.  FLETCHER,  Indian  Agent. 


Long  Prairie,  30//i  ./You.  1848. 

Sir  :  In  answer  to  your  inquiries  of  the   15th   inst.,  I  beg  to  state  that 

the  inhabitants  residing  north  of  the  49^  pay  no  attention  to  the  laws  of 

our  government.     Last  summer  the  agents  of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company 

_at  Rainy  Lake,  assembled  the  Indians  residing  on  the  American  side  (and 


8 


Doc.  No.  51. 


near  the  line)  and  made  them  presents  ;  at  the  same  time  requested  them 
to  use  their  influence  to  prevent  Americans  from  sending  goods  into  the 
country.     To  this  the  Indians  agreed,  and  a  delegation  of  them  visited  my 
agent  at  Vermillion  lake  and  requested  him  to  inform  me  not  again  to 
send  goods  into  their  country.     They  were  told  by  the  agents  of  the  Hud- 
son's Bay  Company  that  our  government  sent  traders  among  them  for  tho 
purpose  of  inducing  them  to  sell  their  lands.     1  sent  the  Indians  word 
that  I  should  again  send  not  only  to  Vermillion  but  to  Rainy  Lake,  which 
promise  I  have  kept,  but  should  not  be  surprised  if  my  post  at  the  latter 
place  should  be  destroyed.     As  soon  as  the  agents  of  the  H.  B.  Co.  found 
that  I  was  determined  to  prosecute  the  trade,  they  brought  a  large  quantity 
of  ardent  spirits  to  their  depot  at  Rainy  lake,  and  at  the  time  the  Indians 
were  gathering  their  last  rice  crop,  they  sent  a  quantity  of  liquor  within 
our  boundary  and  gave  to  our  Indians  in  exchange  for  rice.     I  have  posi- 
tive proof  of  this.     It  is  impossible  to  take  provisions  to  those  posts,  and 
the  traders  and  their  employees  are  compelled  to  live  on  wild  rice  and  fish- 
the  rice  they  purchase  from  the  Indians.     The  object  of  the  company  was 
to  secure  all  of  the  surplus  rice  so  that  my  men  would  be  compelled  to 
abandon  the  country.     They  well  know  that  they  can,  with  the  advantage 
of  whisky,  break  down  any  opposition.     At  the  above  mentioned  posts  the 
trade  to  them  is  not  very  valuable,  but  their  object  is  to  prevent  our  citizens 
from  Americanizing  the  natives,  and  also  to  keep  them  out  of  the  country 
that  they  may  monopolize  the  trade  ;  for  when  they  are  opposed  on  the 
line,  goods  are  sold  low,  and  high  prices  paid  for  furs,  the  news  of  which 
spreads  far  into  the  interior  and  dissatisfies  their  Indians  north  for  hundreds 
ot  miles.     Again,  they  do  not  wish  their  Indians  to  become  acquainted 
with  the  manner  in  which  our  government  deals  with  its  Indians,  for  the 
illiberal  policy  pursued  by  the  British  government  (or  the  H.  B.  Co.)  when 
compared  with  the  liberal  policy  pursued  by  our  government,  and  made 
known  to  those  north  of  the  line,  cannot  but  dissatisfy  them  and  incline 
them  to  look  forward  to  the  dcy  when  they  will  come  under  our  protection, 
i  he  British  traders  have  and  still  do  make  presents  to  our  Indians   but 
were  it  not  for  the  high  duties  we  have  to  pav  on  all  of  our  imported  goods, 
we  could  carry  on  a  successful  trade  on  the  line,  and  not  an  Indian  in  the 
vicinity  but  would  be  ashamed  to  be  seen  with  a  British  flag  or  a  British 
medal.  ° 

On  Red  river  of  the  North,  the  half-breeds  are  very  numerous;  some 
our  thousand  men  have  adopted  the  civilized  mode  of  living  in  part,  many 
have  been  partially  educated,  and  a  few  have  been  fully  educated.  Thev 
have  good  farms  and  raise  large  quantities  of  cattle,  sheep  and  swine.  The 
annual  productions  of  the  country,  cattle,  horses,  sheep,  swine,  wheat, 
flax,  oats,  corn  potatoes,  &c.,  &c.,  I  have  taken  great  pains  to  ascertain 
and  from  a  Catholic  priest  living  there  and  other  intelligent  persons,  I  have 
obtained  correct  information  of  the  quantity  of  each  of  the  above  articles, 
and  the  amount  of  the  value  of  each  as  paid  by  the  Hudson's  Bay  Co 
and  the  Quarter-master  and  Commissary  at  Fort  Gary.  Some  of  their 
catt  e  they  take  to  Fort  Snelling  to  sell.  There  is  also  a  large  number  of 
bcoch,  English  and  Canadian  farmers  in  what  is  called  Lord  Selkirk's 
settlement.  Ihe  half-breeds  (nearly  all)  cross  the  line  twice  a  year  for 
the  purpose  of  hunting  buffalo.  Last  spring  a  party  with  twelve  hundred 
car  s  went  in  a  body  south  of  Devil's  lake.  The  buffalo  they  destroyed 
by  the  thousands,  not  for  the  hides,  but  for  the  meat,  tallow  and  tongues. 


I 


t 


i 


Ar-«** 


\\  \ 


^<^  ■'     .  ■-,  • 


Doc.  No.  51. 


9 


The  meat  they  dry  and  pound  up  fino  and  enclose  it  in  a  skin  sack  and 
then  pour  the  melted  tallow  upon  it,  which  will  keep  for  years  in  this  way 
and  IS  the  means  of  enabling  them  to  put  a  great  quantity  of  nutriment  in 
a  small  space.  When  so  prepared  it  is  taken  to  tiie  Iludscjn's  Bay  depot 
and  there  disposed  of  to  supply  their  northern  posts.  Last  summer  the 
halt-breeds  brought  a  large  quantity  to  St.  Peters  and  also  to  the  mouth  of 
the  Crow  Wing  river;  I  purchased  several  thousand  pounds.  The  Sioux 
Indians  with  justice  complain  of  the  encroachment  of  the  half-breeds  upon 
their  lands  and  of  their  destroying  and  driving  out  of  the  country  the  only 
an:mal  they  have  to  subsist  upon;  in  fact  it  has  led  to  severaroutbreaks 
and  will  soon  unless  checked  lead  to  serious  trouble.  The  half-breeds 
assert  that  they  cannot  live  without  hunting  the  buffalo  •  for  the  Hudson's 
13ay  Co.  do  not  pay  them  half  price  for  their  produce.  They  say  that, 
unless  permitted  to  cross  the  line  and  become  American  citizens  and  have 
en  American  market  for  their  produce  and  enjoy  the  benefits  of  American 
citizens,  that  they  will  be  compelled  to  encroach  upon  the  rights  of  our 
Indians  ;  and  the  only  Avay  that  it  can  be  stopped,  irt  my  opinion,  is,  for 
our  government  to  purchase  a  country  on  the  Red  river,  south  of  the  line, 
and  per-nit  said  half-breeds  and  others  to  remove  to  it,  and  have  the  benefit 
of  a  southern  market.  If  this  could  be  done,  and  should  difficulty  arise 
between  the  British  and  American  governments,  a  force  would  ever  be 
lound  ready  and  sufficiently  strong  to  carry  the  stars  and  stripes  to  York 
factory  and  supplant  the  cross  of  St.  George  between  the  49"  and  Hud- 
son's Bay. 

As  It  is,  by  compulsion  they  are  British  subjects,  and  our  government 
reaps  no  benefit  from  them,  but,  on  the  contrary,  is  and  will  he  mudi  an- 
noyed so  long  as  matters  remain  as  they  are.  Any  further  information 
that  J  can  furnish  I  will  do  with  pl(>asure. 

Very  respectfully,  your  obed't  serv't, 
(Signed)'  111,^x^1 

Cen'l  J.  E.  FLETCiiKn, 

U.  S.  Indian  Afrcnt. 


HENRY  M.  RICE. 


Sir 
ral's  oin 


Fort  Snklling,  jNIin.  T.,  A\>v.  \Qtth.  18-19. 
Tn  compliance  with  instructions  received  from  the  Adiutimt-CJcne- 


ral  s  offico,  dated  '-  Washington,  April  18,  1S49,''  and  of  whicli  a  lopy  is 
enclosed,  I  have  the  honor  to  submit  the  following,  as  the  riMiIt  of  my 
examination  in  the  country  of  the  Red  river  of  the  North,  confming  my- 
seli  a^  ,nuch  as  pos^il  'e  to  the  objects  contemplated  bv  my  instructions. 

i  I'e  country  refe.-red  to  is  not  unknown  nor  unexplored,  but  has  been 
examined  scientifically  and  geogri.phjcally  by  some  of  tlie  most  distin- 
guished gentlemen  of  the  age,  and  reported  upon.  The  late  venerable 
ui.d  world-renowned  Mr.  Ni'ollet,  by  a  reference  to  his  map  and  re])ort  it 
Will  be  .seen,  has  extended  his  explorations  from  the  Missouri  river  to  the 
Shayenne  river  and  un  to  "  Devil's  lake,"  near  the  49tli  i.arallel,  and  re- 
lumed by  IbHowirig  down  the  ridge  that  bounds  on  the  west  the  valley  of 
the  \{va\  river,  ai.i!  not  many  mile'  west  of  I'  '"ail  we  followed  in 'our 
expedition  last  summer. 

its  practised  eye  ami  /ealous  devotion  to  science  and  geography  enabled 
him  to  present  to  the  world  the  ])rominent  features  and  resources  of  that 
country. 

])r.  Owen,  the  distinguished  geologist,  in  the  service  of  the  U.  States, 


10 


Doc.  No.  51. 


has  made  nn  examination  of  Ihe  "  Red  river  of  the  North,"  from  the  49th 
parallel  to  its  sources  ;  many  others  of  distinction  have  also  lent  their  aid 
in  furnishing  materials  for  a  full  knowledge  of  that  country,  so  that  it  now 
stands  presentable,  by  maps,  to  a  very  great  degree  of  accuracy. 

The  route  we  followed  is  well  known  and  travelled  every  summ(>r  by 
large  "■  trnins''  of  carts  from  the  lied  river  settlements.  In  selecting  it  in 
preference  to  the  route  by  "  Crow-wing  river,"  I  was  governed  by"dvice 
that  too  forcibly  impressed  itself  on  my  mind  to  be  neglected,  and  I  deem 
mysell  fortunate  in  the  information  1  received  before  startinf  and  the  ex- 
cellence of  my  guide.  " 

The  expedition  commenced  its  march  from  this  post  on  the  6th  June, 
the  earliest  period  we  thought  the  grass  sufficient  for  the  subsistence  of  our 
horses.  It  consisted  of  myself,  in  command,  Dr.  Sykes,  Act'g  Ass't  Sur- 
geon, 2nd  Lieut.  A.  I).  Nelson,  6tli  Infantrv,  Qr.  lAIr.  and  Coin'y,  and  2nd 
Lieut,  and  Bvt.  Capt.  John  Pope,  Top.  Engs.  Lieut.  Nelson  had  under 
his  charge  a  mountain  howitzer  and  the  train  by  which  our  supplies  were 
being  transported.  Lieut.  Gardiner,  with  Company  "  D."  1st  Dracroons, 
was  to  meet  me  at  Sunk  ra[)ids.  "" 

_  Our  starting  was  unpropitious ;  the  rains,  commencing  on  the  4th,  cor 
tinned  unintermittingly  until  our  arrival  at  Sunk  rapids  on  the  11th.     The 
roads  were  very  batl  and  our  teams  liail  much  difficulty  in   reaching  that 
point,  and  my  observation  in  that  short  distance  tau'dit  me  that  1  was  not 
properly  outfitted  for  the  expedition.     The  large,  he^ivy  wagons  were  not 
suita  )  e  for  the  roads  or  country,  and    I  directed   the    Quarter-master,  if 
possible,  to  hire  or  buy  light  two-horse  wagons,  and  send  back  the  heavv 
ones,     lie  succeeded  in  getting  four  and  we  sent  back  two  iieavy  wagons. 
Ihe  Dragoon  Company,  numbering  40,  non-commissioned  ofjicers,  pri- 
vates, &c.,  under  1st.   Lieut.    J.    W.^T.    Gardiner,  and   2nd  Lieut.   T.  F. 
Castor,  1st  Dragoons,  arrived  at  Sunk  Rapids  on  tli<i  lOtli.     On  the  12tli, 
we  commenced  crossing  the  Mississippi  and  in  consequence  of  the  eoniin- 
ucd  rams  and  high  winds,  we  did  not  effect  our  passage  until  the  13tii. 
_    On  the  west  bank  of  the  .Alississippi   1   made  an  eiicanipmeiit,   where   I 
intendeii  to  remain  until  the  weather  chang<-d   for  the   better.     The  rains 
having  fallen  so  steaddy  and  for  so  many  days,  the  earth  was  so  saturated 
w^ith  water,  that  the  thickly-matted   turf  of  the   prairie  would  not  support 
the  weight   of  the   wagons.     Our   horses  would  have   been  pulling  and 
breaknig  themselves  down  without  making  mueii  progress  on  our  journey. 
Ihe  woallu  r  clearing  up  on  the  afternoon  of  the  l.'Uh,  and  the  i4th  and 
l.)tli  being  clear,  jtretty  days,  we  resumed  our  march  on  the  Kilh,  with  but 
trilling  interruptions  by  bad    roads,  for   Hi,',    miles,  when   we   encamiKMl. 
Uur  route  was  en  the  "Red  river  trail,"  nearly  .south-west,  and  with   tho 
exception  ol  about  2  miles,  open  prairie  with  heavy  bo.liesof  timber  close 
uy  on  either  hand.     Our  encampment  was  on  a,  little  stream  called  "  Cold- 
water  creek,  '  formed  by  little  springs  breaking  out  from  its  banks.     The 
^vater  as  c  ear  and  coM  as  the  most  thirsty  coiihl  wish.     This  stream  wo 
had  to  bridge  or  causeway  on  both  sides  for  twenty  or  thirty  yards,     'i'lio 
trains    Irom  Red  river  cross   such  places   by  tlirowing  down   grass   or 
brush  and  tli(>  ox  and  cart  pass  where  horses  an.l  wagons  cannot. 

Ihere  are  nuinberlt-ss  pjuees  on  this  route  <:«!li'!l  " '!'i.!-j-.>s:-}rcn>!>Ian?e?  " 
and  are  formed  by  springs,  the  water  running  from  tln'm  over  a  bed'of 
Sim,!,  on  which  a  vegrlable  mould  has  been  deposited  until  in  some  places 
it  IS  found  three  or  more  feet  deep. 


I 


Doc.  No.  51. 


U 


iOth 


The  water  running  underneath  keeps  the  superincumbent  mass  moist 
and  unstable,  so  much  so  that  it  can  be  sometimes  shaken  for  ten  or  fifteen 
feet  around,  and  is  always  miry. 

From  this  point  we  continued  our  route  considerably  south  of  west,  and 
close  upon  the  bank  of  Sunk  river  for  about  live  miles,  where  the  Sunk 
river  turns  abruptly  north,  and  we  had  to  cross  it.  The  river  was  much 
swollen  by  the  heavy  rains,  and  was  wide  and  deep.  We  launched  our 
ponton-wagon-beds  and  crossed  it,  and  encamped  on  the  VAresicrn  bank. 
Between  this  and  Cold-water  creek  we  had  to  make  two  bridges,  and 
mired  dowm  over  the  most  of  the  way,  going  only  five  miles  in  two  days ; 
many  little  places  detaining. us  for  hours,  and  requiring  almost  the  constant 
labor  of  our  men  in  mud  and  water.  In  crossing  Sunk  river,  some  twenty 
of  our  horses  and  mules  got  away  and  took  the  road  back.  On  this  ac- 
count, and  to  give  our  men  and  horses  some  rest  from  their  toils,  I  con- 
cluded to  remain  in  camp  a  day.  On  the  19th  a  party  returned  for  our 
mules  and  horses,  and  near  the  Mississippi  met  a  man  bringing  them  back. 

The  country  back  from  this  point  to  the  Mississippi's  heavily  timbered, 
with  patches  of  prairie.  The  road  carries  us  out  of  the  direction,  following 
the  prairie  which  skirts  along  Sunk  river.  The  land  is  good,  plenty  of 
timber  and  the  best  of  water,  and  destined  to  be  the  most  valuable  portion 
of  this  territory  ;  some  positions  are  beautiful;  and  nearly  all  good  for 
farming  purposes. 

On  the  20th  resuming  our  march  over  a  beautiful  prairie,  did  not  go  far 
until  another  "  tremblante"  caused  us  several  hours'  labor,  and  again  and 
again  until  night  overtook  us  on  the  prairie,  and  we  had  to  camp  in  the 
rain,  without  wood,  and  marshes  all  around  us.  In  the  morning  we  light- 
ened our  loads  and  passed  the  slash  in  our  front,  sent  back  after  our  stores 
and  again  moved  forward,  and  with  much  diiliculty  reached  "  Lake  David" 
near  sun-set,  going  on  this  day  only  3.^  miles,  and  the  day  before  8^. 

The  hard  pulling  of  horses  and  mules  had  much  exhausted  them,  and 
broken  our  chains,  &c.,  so  much  as  to  require  repairs.  We  formed  a  camp 
on  ])avid  lake,  and  had  to  burn  coal  to  make  the  repairs  necessary.  We 
remained  at  this  point  four  ilays,  hoping  the  prairie  might  improve. 

\\lu'n  starting,  we  had  diiliculty  in  supplying  ourselves  with  picket 
ropes  or  laniats  lor  our  horses,  and  were  obliged  to  lake  the  common  bed- 
cords.  Seeing  that  we  would  soon  be  without  the  means  of  securing  our 
horses,  as  these  cords  broke  easily,  J  sent  Lieutenant  Castor  and  two  men 
back  for  a  new  supply.  Our  dilliculties  to  this  point  were  principally  with 
the  two  heavy  wagons  belonging  to  the  dragoon  company,  and  I  would 
have  sent  them  back  anil  waited  for  others,  could  I  possibly  have  gotten 
along  without  them  ;  they  were  the  ponton-wagons,  and  were  indispensably 
necessary  to  the  inarch,  and  did  us  much  good  service  on  the  expedition 
although  they  caused  the  men  much  hard  labor.  The  light  two-horse 
wagon  is  the  most  suitable  vehicle  for  transportation  in  this  country,  and 
the  one  generally  in  use.  The  cart  is  much  used  by  the  Red  river  i)eoplo, 
but  for  its  economy.  It  is  a  simple  structure,  wiliiout  any  iron  about  it, 
and  can  \n\  -nade  or  repaired  by  each  indi.idual.  A  single  ox  in  harness 
is  the  moving  power,  and  one  person  will  drive  four  of  them. 

Lake  David  is  narrow  and  long  ;  its  length  in  tlie  direction  of  norili  and 
south,  and  drains  j)ir  into  a  branch  of  "Crow  river.'"  It  is  about  12  miles 
from  the  crossing  of  Sunk  river,  'i'he  horse-tly  attackeil  our  horses  here, 
and  continued  for  two  days  indescribably  fierce,  and  then  disappeared;  we 
were  not  again  troubled  with  them  durinVr  the  ivnedition. 


12 


Doc.  No.  51. 


ijn  the  26th  we  commenced  again  our  march,  over  bad  roads,  or  rather, 
over  a  bad  prairie,  which,  althouo;h  it  is  urdulating  and  high,  has  many 
drains  and  level  places  that  were  Hooded  with  water  and  miry.  Seven  or 
qight  miles  from  Lake  David,  is  "  Lake  Henrie'',  resembling  much  the 
former,  and  of  about  the  same  extent.  They  both  have  heavy  strips  of 
timber  on  their  eastern  shores.  The  water  is  clear  and  good,  and  is  sup- 
plied by  springs.  1  am  told  there  is  plenty  of  fish  in  them.  The  roads 
continuing  very  bad  for  about  eight  miles  further,  causing  us  much  labor, 
annoyance,  and  delay,  we  crossed  a  branch  of  "  Crow  river."  This  is  a 
bold  little  stream  running  about  south-east,  with  a  muddy  bottom  on  the 
west  side  of  about  two  hundred  yards,  which  was  very  difhcult  to  pass. 
From  this  point  for  eleven  miles  we  had  good  roads,  to  "  Lightning  lake." 
This  much  good  road  was  obtained  by  following  a  ridge  that  divides  two 
branches  of  "  Crow  river." 

The  prairie  was  still  almost  impassable  ;  at  Lightning  lake  we  arrived 
in  the  midst  of  a  heavy  rain,  and  pitched  our  tents  on  the  borders  of  a 
beautiful  lake  and  sought  the  shelter  of  them  during  the  continuation  of 
the  rain  and  the  most  terrible  electric  explosions.  The  dragoon  company 
was  still  behind  with  the  heavy  wagons,  but  Lieutenant  Gardiner's  servant 
being  with  the  advance,  had  pitched  his  tent.  A  Hash  of  lightning  struck 
Lieutenant  Gardiner's  tent,  shivering  the  tent  poles  into  splinters,  and 
burnt  his  bedding  and  clothing  as  if  a  red-hot  iron  had  passed  over  them. 
My  tent  was  eight  or  ten  paces  from  Lieutenant  Gardiner's,  and  Captain 
Pope,  Mr.  Stille  and  myself  were  seated  in  it,  and  were  knocked  from  our 
seats ;  but  recovering  from  the  shock,  we  rose  and  looked  out,  fearing 
some  person  l.^.d  been  hurt,  when  we  saw  Lieutenant  Nelson,  whose  tent 
was  between  Lieutenant  Gardiner's  and  mim  ,  lying  on  his  back,  out  of  his 
tent,  in  the  rain,  his  hands  and  arms  raised  convulsively,  gasping  and 
struggling  for  breath  and  in  the  last  agonies  of  apoplexy,  produced  by 
concussion  of  the  brain. 

Dr.  Sykes  was  called  in  an  instant,  and  by  a  free  use  of  cold  water 
re -action  was  excited,  his  pulse  revived  and  he  gave  signs  of  life.  As 
soon  as  he  was  able  to  bear  it  he  was  bled,  and  then  soon  recovered  his 
senses,  to  find  his  right  side  partially  paralyzed  ;  but  in  the  hands  of  our 
attentive  and  skillful  surgeon,  a  few  weeks  relieved  him  from  thnt  mis- 
fortune. Nothin^  but  the  presence  of  mind  and  promptness  of  the  doittor, 
could  possibly  have  resuscitated  him.  Life  seemed  to  be  wholly  extinct 
when  the  doctor  reached  him.  Every  person  in  camp  was  more  or  less 
affected  by  the  shock.  The  iron  on  "the  tent-pole,  particularly  as  a  point 
extends  above  the  tent,  attracts  electricity  as  a  lightning-rod. 

On  account  of  Lieutenant  Nelson's  health,  and  the  l)ad  condition  of  the 
prairies,  I  remained  in  camp  five  days.  On  the  lid  of  July  we  again  moved 
forward  and  went  fourteen  miles,  and  encamped  on  the  borders  of  "  White- 
Bear  lake,"  where  we  remained  waiting  for  Lieutenant  Castor,  who  joined 
us  on  the  1th  with  our  expected  supplies. 

White-Bear  lake  has  an  average  width  of  about  two  miles,  and  is  per- 
haps eight  or  ten  in  length,  nearly  east  and  west.  In  its  widest  places, 
near  the  shore,  are  many  little  islands  all  heavily  timbered. 

This  lake  is  about  seventy -Jim  miles  fiuni  Sunk  rapids  (tuoulii  of  Asakis 
river  on  the  maps),  and  is  a  beautiful  sheet  of  water,  with  heavy  bodies  of 
timlier  around  it,  alternating  witii  prairie,  which  in  many  jjlaces  descends 
in  iiandsome  slopes  to  the  water's  edge.  The  lake  is  fed  by  springs,  and 
is  full  of  fish. 


Doc.  No.  51. 


13 


The  heavily-timbered  highlands,  that  rang'e  parallel  with  the  Missis- 
sippi, and  back  some  distance  from  it,  edge  upon  this  lake.  The  prairie 
is  of  the  best  quality,  being  a  rich  mixture  of  vegetable  mould  with  sand, 
making  a  warm  productive  soil. 

On  the  north  of  the  lake  ihe  prairie  is  broken  and  irregular,  but  the 
east,  west,  and  south  borders,  lie  handsomely  for  cultivation. 

Back  to  Lightning  lake  (a  name  given  by  us,  on  account  of  the  acci- 
dent that  occurred  there),  the  country  is  very  pretty,  mostly  prairie,  but 
probably  with  a  sufficient  quantity  of  woodland  within  reach  on  the  north 
and  east. 

The  immediate  vicinity  of  Lightning  lake  is  a  beautifid  country  for 
farming.  The  lake  is  divided  into  two  parts  by  a  sand-bank  of  not  more 
than  fifty  yards  in  width.  The  westei'n  portion  is  almost  circular  and  about 
half  a  mile  in  diameter.  The  eastern  division  is  from  a  half  to  a  mile  in 
width,  and  four  or  five  in  length,  and  drains  off  into  Crow  river.  Heavy 
bodies  of  timber  lie  all  around  this  lake,  wiih  the  exception  of  the  west 
side,  where  beautiful  prairie  spreads  out  in  the  distance.  The  soil  is  good 
as  could  be  wished,  and  some  of  the  most  beautiful  natural  meadows  that 
can  be  seen  in  any  country.  The  lakes,  as  all  lakes  of  any  extent  in  this 
country,  are  fed  by  springs,  and  have  clear  pure  water,  with  sandy  bottoms. 
Our  men  caught  immense  quantities  of  fish,  prim  inally  bass  and  perch  of 
lai 


ge  size. 


By  the  use  of  a  small  seine  we  obtained  a  greater  supply  than  the  whole 
command  could  consupie.  Having  observed  tliat  near  these  lakes  immense 
quantities  of  rushes  sprang  up  most  luxuriantly,  I  was  led  to  suppose  that 
springs  could  be  easily  reached,  atul  digging  al)out  five  feet  tlirough  a  rich 
mould  we  reached  pure  sand  and  a  vein  of  spring  water,  as  clear  and  cold 
as  ice. 

We  arrived  at  White-Bear  lake  on  the  3(1  and  left  it  on  the'Gth  of  July, 
and  in  the  thirty  days  that  intervened  since  leaving  Fort  Snelling,  we  hail, 
from  the  Gth  to  the  13th  both  inclusive  cip;/it  days  steady  rain,  from  the 
14th  to  the  li)th  both  included  six  days  clear,  and  then  tico  days  rain, /our 
clear,  lico  rain,  fire  clear,  tiro  rain,  niic  clear,  foiirtrcn  days  rain,  and  .lix- 
tccn  clear.  On  the  -lays  marked  rainy,  we  had'  sometimes  the  most  terrific 
storms,  when  the  rain' fell  in  torrents  and  the  heavens  were  in  a  blaze  of 
light,  and  the  thunder  broke  over  us  ajipalliiigly.  We  were  driven  from 
the  vicinity  (if  the  timlier  by  the  mosquitoes,  and  our  camps  on  the  open 
prairie,  with  tlie  quantities  of  iron  a!)()ut  our  wagons,  makes  lliem  the  most 
prominent  object  arouml ;  aud  when  clouds  heavily  charged  with  electricity 
pass  near,  such  campt;  a  -e  in  great  danger. 

On  the  night  of  the  -tth  .July  one  of  these  storms  visited  us,  while  at  White- 
Bear  laki',  with  all  the  liiry' the  utmost  power  of  the  combined  elements 
can  inllict.  Being  on  the  high  open  prairie,  the  thunder  broke  over  us  in 
such  smas/titif>'  explosions,  that  for  two  liours  our  position  was  torturing 
beyond  (U-st'ription,  many  left  their  tents  and  stood  out  regardless  of  the 
pelting  rain,  nor  was  this  an  idle  or  unreasonable  apprehension,  fin- we  had 
only  a  lew  days  before  the  thunder-bolt  amor;-  ^  us  in  its  dire  elTects,  and 

we  knew  our  camn  was  the  most  nrobable  object  if  there  was  another  stray 

tit' 

one  at  leisure. 

We  resumed  our  march  on  the  Oth  of  .July,  but  found  the  prairies  so  bad 
from  the  dreiichinu;  rains  that  had  just  fidlen,  we  were  scarcely  able  lo  get 
along.     Little  drains  that  usually  contain   no   water,  were   now  almost 


14 


Doc.  No.  51. 


swimming,  and  these  occurring  every  mile  or  two,  witli  the  miry  condition 
of  the  ground,  rendered  our  march  slow  and  exhausting  to  our  teams. 
We  made  about  fourteen  miles  and  camped  on  what  we  called  Pike  lake, 
a  very  pretty  lake,  where  the  men  caught  with  their  seine  a  great  many 
■pike.  We  saw  here  as  at  White-Bear  Take  a  great  many  swan  ;  one  was 
killed  here  that  weighed  24  pounds.  It  being  the  moulting  season,  they 
were  at  our  mercy.  We  remained  in  camp  two  days  on  account  of  the  hiiTh 
waters  and  bad  condition  of  the  prairie.  ° 

I  had  ex])ccted  1o  turn  off  more  to  the  north  for  the  purpose  of  striking 
Red  river,  near  Otter-Tail  lake,  but  finding  the  difficulties   on   the    best 
route  almost  more  than  we  could  successfully  encounter  I  feared  to  attempt 
^  a  route  which  1  learned  was  worse. 

On  the  9th  we  again  took  up  the  line  of  march,  and  after  going  about 
twelve  miles  over  a  prairie  Ihat  was  a  succession  of  ups  and  downs  we 
crossed  the_  main  bninch  of  the  Chippewa  river.  It  runs  almost  north 
and  south,  is  about  fifteen  yards  across,  has  a  rapid  current  with  a  rocky 
bottom,  and  empties  into  the  St.  Peters  river  five  or  six  miles  below 
"  Lac-qui-porte."  The  highlands  just  passed  over  are  those  dividing  the 
waters  of  the  Mississippi  and  St.  Peter's  rivers.  After  crossing  the 
Chippewa  river,  in  a  few  hundred  yards  we  came  upon  the  foot  of  a  lake 
along  which  we  continued  for  two  or  three  miles  and  got  into  the  midst  of 
many  lakes  separated  from  each  other  by  embankments  but  they  all  have 
outlets,  and  drain  off  their  waters  into  'the  Chippewa  river.  Here  we 
saw  an  elk,  and  being  the  first  one  that  cro.ssed  our  path,  we  called  this 
lake  Elk  lake.  It  has  high  and  in  some  places  bluff  banks,  with  fine 
bodies  of  timber  around  it  and  much  more  covering  the  highlands  off  to 
the  east.  About  fifteen  miles  farther  on,  we  came  upon  another  large  lake, 
which  we  called  Elbow  lake.  A  name  suggested  by  its  shape.  This  also 
has  timber  around  its  shores.  The  roads  'had  much  improved  and  we  got 
along  with  fewer  interruptions  on  these  highlands. 

At  ''  Elbow  lake,"  we  met  a  "  war  party  "  of  Chippewa  Indians,  known 
by  the  name  of  «  Pillagers  "  from  "  Ottef-tail  lake,"  but  I  shall  forbear 
speaking  of  them  here  as  I  have  done  of  other  Indians  we  had  met  with. 
My  object  being  in  the  first  place,  to  give  a  description  of  our  march,  and 
the  country  passed  over,  and  then  under  separate  heads,  I  shall  attempt  to 
present  an  account  of  Indians,  half-breeds,  and  a  military  reconnoissance  of 
the  country. 

About  ten  miles  back  we  crossed  a  branch  of  the  Tipsinah,  or  Pomme- 
de-terre  River.  It  runs  nearly  .south,  and  emi)ties  into  the  St.  Peters  five 
or  six  miles  above  "  Lac-qui-porte,"  or  '•  Echo  lake." 

After  leaving  "  ElI)o\v  lake,"  and  going  four  or  five  miles  to  a  little 
stream  called  ''Rabbit  river,"  we  met  the  advance  of  the  Red  river 
"train  of  carts,"  about  twenty-five  in  number,  and  under  the  charge  of  a 
man  from  Selkirk,  or  the  English  settlement.  They  were  loaded  with 
l)eltries  and  "pemmican,"  and  on  their  way  to  St.  Pauls,  Minnesota  Terri- 
tory.  The.se  people  buy  goods  at  St.  Pauls  and  Galena  and  take  them 
back  to  Pembina,  when  they  await  an  oj)portunity  and  smuggle  them  into 
the  settlements  on  the  Krirrlish  side. 

About  ten  miles  farther  on,  we  met  Mr.  Norinan   Kittson,  the  afent  of 
the  fur  company  of  "  Chotian  June  &  Co.,"  established  at  Pembina.     He 
had  about  sixfy-Jire  carts,  loaded  with  the  product  of  his  last  winter's  busi 
ncss   m  furs;   going  ten   miles  farther,    we   came   upon  Otter-Tail  lake 


Doc.  No.  51. 


15 


condition 
ur  teams. 
^ike  lake, 
eat  many 
;  one  was 
ison,  they 
f  the  hic-ii 

f  strikinpf 

the   best 

0  attempt 

ng  about 
lowns  we 
ost  north 
li  a  rocky 
es  below 
iding  the 
3sing  the 
of  a  lake 
midst  of 
'all  have 
Here  we 
illed  this 
with  fine 
us  off  to 
rge  lake, 
riiis  also 
(1  we  got 

3^  known 
i  forbear 
net  with, 
irch,  and 
.tempt  to 
sance  of 

Pomme- 
ters  five 

)  a  little 
ed  river 
irge  of  a 
cd  with 
a  1  ern- 
ke  them 
lem  into 

:igent  of 
na.     He 

r's  l)usi 
ail  lake 


river  (as  it  is  called  in  this  country),  or  Red  river  of  the  maps,  where  it 
has  a  direction  a  little  south  of  west.  It  runs  through  the  open  prairie, 
with  no  timber  to  be  seen  in  any  direction,  save  some  small  scatterinc^ 
shrubbery  growing  immediately  on  its  banks.  At  the  ford,  it  has  a  rocky 
bottom  and  good  banks,  is  from  two  to  three  feet  deep  and  some  fd\v  yards 
wide  ;  we  forded  it  easily  and  camped  on  the  right  bank.  Mr.  Kittson 
returned  to  our  camp  and  remained  with  us  for  the  night  and  gave  us  much 
information  of  the  country  we  were  en  route  for. 

From  our  first  crossing  of  Red  river,  we  travelled  nearly  north-west, 
about  twenty-two  miles,  and  struck  I\ed  river  again,  ten  or" fifteen  miles 
below  the  mouth  of  "Bois-de-Sioux  river,"  where  it  is  a  much  larger  and 
finer  strea-i.  After  ctossing  it  by  pretty  deep  fording,  we  follo^ved  it 
down  about  four  miles  and  made  our  camp,  with  the  view  of  exaraininT 
this  point  for  the  establishment  of  a  military  post. 

_  My  instructions  were  to  select  a  site  for  a  military  post  on  the  Red 
river  of  the  North,  and  at  a  distance  from  "Fort  Gaines"  not  to  exceed 
200  miles.  This  position  is  163  miles  from  Sunk  rapids  (mouth  of 
Osakis  river)  and  nearly  due  west,  from  Fort  Gaines,  and  perhaps 
farther  from  the  latter  place  than  the  former  by  any  practicable  route. 
The  position  of  our  camp,  and  which  I  selectetl  for  that  of  a  post,  is 
on  the  left  bank  of  Red  river,  where  it  runs  a  little  west  of  north. 

The  prairie  comes  \\\>  to  the  water's  edrre,  and  extends  as  far  as  the  eye 
can  reach  north,  west,  and  south,  with  the  exception  of  heavy  strips  of 
timber,  ^yith  openings  showing  the  prairie  beyond,  along  Wild  Rice 
river,  which  is  abovt  three  miles  to  the  west,  running  north.  Red  river 
makes  a  bend  in  our  front,  forming  almost  an  island  on  the  right  bank,  thi.:' 
heavily  timbered,  and  the  bends  to  the  right  and  left  of  us  on  the  left  bank 
are  well  timbered.  I  have  carefully  examined,  with  reference  to  the  wants 
of  a  military  post,  and  thinkt  here  is  a  sufficiency  of  timber  within  five 
miles  for  all  the  purposes  it  might  be  wished  for  any  number  of  years. 
The  forest  consists  chiefiy  of  elni,  oak,  ash,  haskberry,  cotton  wood,  and 
some  maple,  and  a  variety  of  small  growth  I  am  not  familiar  with.  The 
oak  and  ash  are  of  dimensions  to  be  made  good  lumber.  It  is  to  be  re- 
gretted that  there  is  no  stone  in  the  country  of  any  descri[)tion.  I  have 
seen  no  stratified  rock  since  I  left  the  Mississ'ippi  river.  There  is  an  ad- 
mirable clay  for  brick,  and  sand  can  be  had  by  digging  for  it,  but  lime,  I 
presume,  cannot  be  had  short  of  the  Mississippi. 

The  prairie  is  very  fertile,  and  if  there  is  any  objection  to  it,  it  is  that 
there  is  not  a  sufficiency  of  sand  to  give  it  warmth.  The  grass  is  very 
luxuriant,  and  will  be  inexhaustible  for  hay.  The  water  is  the  river  water. 
The  acting  Assistant-Surgeon  reports  it  a  healthful  position. 

This  was  the  first  position,  or  (he  one  highest  up  on  the  Red  river, 
where  there  was  timber  sufiiident  for  a  military  jjost.  I  would  have  pre- 
ferred locating  it  higher  up,  for  reasons  that  will  be  given  when  I  come  to 
speak  of  Indian  relations  on  this  frontier. 

This  point  is  88  miles  from  White-bear  lake,  anil  there  is  but  little 
timber  on  our  route  over  that  distance.  Some  about  Pike  lake.  Elk 
lake,  mid  Elbow  lake.  The  jir.uric  gL-nendly  is  high  and  undulat- 
ing, and  dotted  over  with  lakes  of  various  dimensions,  and  there  are  some 
running  streams. 

The  immediate  vicinity  of  Red  river  from  our  first  point  of  crossing  to 
this  place  is  low,  and  in  wet  weather,  marshy.     Here  the  banks  are  about 


16 


Doc.  No.  51. 


25  feet  hi^li,  and  out  of  all  danfrer  from  hip;h  waters,  and  the  prairie  dry, 
even  in  the  wet  season.  It  is  the  prettiest  location  in  the  country;  but 
this  is  not  high  commendation.  We  set  up  on  this  site  a  post  about  two 
feet  in  diameter,  and  eight  feet  above  the  ground,  hewn  square,  and  cut  on 
it  in  deep  letters,  "  163  miles  to  Sunk  Rapids.     July  14,  1849." 

On  the  15th  of  July  we  resumed  our  march  in  a  direction  generally  north- 
west, and  travelled  nine  miles  over  a  high  dry  prarie  to  Wild  Rice  river, 
which  has  a  bad  muddy  crossing,  and  then  eleven  miles  over  a  low  marshy 
prairie,  and,  consequently,  bad  roads,  we  struck  the  Shayanne  river.  This 
river  was  much  swollen,  and  had  (o  be  ferried.  A  raft  that  Mr.  Kittson 
had  constructed  for  his  passage,  we  thought  would  answer  for  ours,  with 
some  repairs.  We  hoped  to  be  able  to  put  the  wagon  with  its  load  on  it 
and  save  the  trouble  of  unloading;  but  the  raft  was  badly  constructed,  and 
woidd  carry  but  little,  and  gave  us  more  trouble  than  we  should  have  had, 
if  we  had  commenced  with  our  wagon-beds. 

Tlie  Shayenne  is  a  rapid  turbid  stream,  and  was  at  that  time  deep,  with 
excellent  bodies  of  timber  along  its  banks.  While  encamped  on  this  river, 
early  in  the  morning,  our  horses  being  picketed  out  and  made  restive  by 
the  mosquitoes,  took  fright  at  something,  broke  their  larriats,  and  twenty- 
six  of  them  left  the  camp  at  full  run.  A  party  was  immediately  sent  after 
them,  and  followed  for  ten  miles,  when  they  caught  six  of  them.  They 
lost  all  trace  of  the  others,  and  came  in  without  them.  Another  party 
started,  and  returned  the  next  day  about  twelve  o'clock,  bringing  back  all 
but  one,  which  we  never  recovered. 

Having  consumed  the  16th  in  crossing  the  river,  we  camped  on  the  north 
bank  of  the  Shayenne  where,  during  the  night,  the  mosquitoes  infested 
our  camp  in  clouds.  Our  horses  were  tortured,  and  got  neither  rest  nor 
opportunity  to  eat  during  the  night. 

Soon  after  crossing  the  Mississippi,  the  mosquitoes  commenced  on  us, 
and  had  gradually  increased  in  numbers  and  ferocity,  and  had  been  anathe- 
matized, as  we  thought,  sufTicit-ntly  for  their  perdition;  but  now  they 
choked  down  every  expressior  that  would  consign  them  to  the  shades. 

It  was  impossible  to  talk  wiihout  inhaling  them. 

Starting  at  12  ]M.,  over  a  level  prairie  on  which  the  water  stood  from 
two  inches  to  two  feet  almost  the  entire  way,  and  after  going  about  lour- 
teen  miles,  we  reached  Maple  river,  which  Mr.  Kittson  had  bridged  ;  but 
the  water  being  much  higher  now  than  when  he  crossed  it,  the  bridge  had 
disappeared.  We  camped  on  its  bank  in  the  midst  of  a  terrible  thunder- 
storm, and  were  honored,  as  the  night  before,  by  countless  niimbers  of 
these  winged  insects  that  contemn  the  displeasure,  and  sing  cheerily  over 
the  tortures  of  their  victims.  We  ferried  the  river,  and  over  the  marshes 
again  for  about  fd'teen  miles.  We  came  upon  Rush  river  (Elm  river  of 
the  maps),  where  we  encamped.  Between  this  point  and  Maple  river, 
fifteen  miles  back,  we  had  to  ferry  two  branches,  and  crossed  a  third  that 
nearly  s  vam  us. 

There  had  been  such  torrents  of  rain  about  this  time,  that  the  little 
branches  that  ordinarily  furnish  barely  a  sufficiency  of  water  to  allay  the 

thir'^t^  nt    n   trriV(>11inir  trmn     werf  ir^"'  o\»'im"'>in'T         Oiir  (pnin   linrcoo  rjt,    this 

point  began  to  fail,  attributable  principally  to  the  unceasing  annoy;ince 
of  mosquitoes  that  did  not  allow  them  to  get  their  rest  at  night,  nor  quietly 
to  feed  upon  the  grass.  At  Rush  river  we  found  higher  prairie,  and  a 
little  relief  from  the  mosquitoes.    We  had  to  ferry  the  river.     As  our  direc- 


I 


!  prairie  dry, 
ciountry ;  but 
3t  about  two 
?,  and  cut  on 

:9." 

lerally  north- 
1  Rice  river, 
I  low  marshy 
river.  This 
;  Mr.  Kittson 
'or  ours,  with 
ts  load  on  it 
structed,  and 
lid  have  had, 

le  deep,  with 
on  this  river, 
de  restive  by 
and  twenty- 
ily  sent  after 
hem.  They 
tiother  party 
^ing  back  all 

on  the  north 
toes  infested 
her  rest  nor 

enced  on  us, 
been  anathe- 
it  now  they 
e  shades. 

r  stood  from 
J  about  lour- 
bridged  ;  but 
le  bridge  had 
ible  thunder- 

niimbers  of 
tiheerily  over 

the  marshes 
Elm  fiver  of 
Maple  river, 
[  a  third  that 

lat  the  little 
to  allay  the 
inrses  nt  tins 
y  annoyiuu'.e 
t,  nor  quietly 
irairie,  and  a 
A.S  our  direc- 


Doc.  No.  51. 


17 


tion  diverged  from  the  course  of  Red  river,  we  were  at  this  point  probablv 
fifteen  or  twenty  miles  distant  from  it,  and  seeing  the  high  prairie  before 
us,  we  began  to  congratulate  ou;^elves  at  the  prospect  of  gettino-  out  of  its 
bottoms;  but  we  found  the  elevation  that  appeared  in  our  front  only 
benches,  rismg  fifteen  or  twenty  feet,  and  then  spreading  out  into  what 
are  called  "dead  levels,"  covered  with  marshes. 

About  eight  miles  from  Rush  river,  we  came  upon  a  little  prairie  stream 
much  swollen  and  deep.  We  diverged  from  our  track  and  passed  around 
It,  or  so  nearly  so,  that  we  had  only  some  of  its  branches  to  cross,  which 
were  iordable.  On  leaving  Rush  rivej-,  we  were  aware  that  we  had  more 
than  torty  miles  before  us  of  prairie,  without  a  stick  of  timber,  and  carried 
wood  with  us  for  one  night's  encampment. 

About  twenty  miles  from  Rush  river,  we  came  upon  a  cluster  of  hills  Ox 
considerable  elevation,  and  after  ascending  them,  we  could  see  off  to  the 
west  and  south  west  their  continuation;  but  in  our  direction,  west  of  north- 
they  extended  but  a  few  miles,  and  a  flat  country  was  still  before  us 
1  wenty  miles  farther,  we  struck  the  south  branch  of  Goose  river  The 
banks  of  this  river  are  seventy-five  or  more  feet  in  height,  and  in  some 
places  perpendicular.  The  view  from  camp  is  a  very  handsome  one  ;  the 
high  bluff  banks  bearing  off  in  the  distance,  and  the  bottom  dotted  with 
clumps  of  trees,  make  a  beautiful  contrast  with  the  boundless  extent  of 
prairie  spreading  around  us  in  every  other  direction.  On  the  mornino- 
after  our  arrival  here,  we  saw  a  herd  of  buffalo,  gave  them  chase,  and 
killed  several  of  them.  ' 

I  will  send  with  this  report,  an  account  of  buffalo-huntint^  on  these  im- 
mense  prairies,  written  by  the  Rev.  Mr.  Bclcourt,  Catholic  Missionary  at 
Jrembina.  -^ 

About  nineteen  miles  farther  we  crossed  the  main  branch  of  Goose 
Kiver,  travelling  over  higher  and  drier  prairie  ;  we  also  crossed  several 
little  branches  with  abrupt  high  banks.  These  abrupt  breaks  on  the 
streams  are  confined  to  the  banks;  the  prairie  extending  out  from  them,  as 
If  It  had  been  adjusted  in  its  horizontal  by  a  spirit-level.  Goino-  twenty 
miles  farther  we  struck  Turtle  river,  and  encamped  on  its  northern 
bank.  It  IS  a  small  stream,  running  south  of  east,  with  high  banks  anc 
some  timber  in  its  bottoms. 

Our  encampment  was  a  short  distance  below  a  place  which  bears  som 
resemblance  to  a  rude  attempt  at  a  field-work,  and  it  is  said  to  be  a  placi 
made  for  defence  by  the  Red  river  Chippewa's  when  they  went  there  to 
winter  as  was  the  case  some  years  ago.  This  work  is  of  rectanLnilai 
orm,  three  sides  of  it  having  much  the  appearance  of  made  embankments, 
the  side  facing  the  river  having  none.  The  enclosure  is  about  one  acre  in 
extent,  and  the  portion  of  it  at  the  lower  end  is  sunk  ten  or  more  fee 
below  the  surrounding  country.  The  elevations  forming  the  contour  are 
ot  sand,  while  the  adjacent  and  exterior  ground  is  a  vegetable  mould. 
Ihe  whole  is  now  covered  with  vegetation,  but  of  not  so  luxuriant  a 
growth  as  that  surrounding  it.  Had  I  not  heard  stories  about  it  I  shoula 
have  passed  It  by,  thinking  it  the  uncommon  and  curious  washin<-s  of  a 
bluff  bank  by  the  heavy  rains.  " 

,p  J^V  "'■  ^!"T  ^'"'"'^  ''^■"'  P^""^^^^  "^^  ^^^  '=^i""'^  ^nti  Chippewas  met  here, 
llie  tMoux  had  come  from  tlie  west,  down  the  river,  and  encamped  the 
night  preceding  in  a  little  wood  about  half-a-mile  above.     The  Chippewa 
had  discovered  them,  and  selected  this  .old  Fort  for  an  ambuscade,  an 
DOC.  51.— 2 


I.-WJIWIUI'  • 


18 


Doc.  No.  51. 


ook  possession  of  it  in  the  ni^ht  and  remained  ""f  ^"7;;^^,  ^ij;^  l^""^ 
^ioux  were  ^vithin  their  reach,  ^vheu  a  skirmish  ensued,,  ^'j'  ;"'  ^^  ^^^^^^^ 
Phinnewas  abandoninrr  their  work  and  taking  to  Ihsrht.  Ihe  ^bioux  \\ere 
aWt^to  one^^  Parties  together  did  not  number   over  ^//y. 

^7.::^V^^-^  traveled  over  high,  broken  prairie,  the  roads 
.ood     cros  in."  Big   and    Little   Salt   rivers   until    the    bottoms    spread 
Surao-ain  before  us,  about  forty  miles  from  Turtle  nver.     \\  e  camped  on 
°    i.h  lidc.    on  the  prabie;  we  were  fearful  of  going  into  the  bottoms   on 
'ccoun    ot^  the  mosquitoes.     These  pests  had  become  so  much  worse  than 
Jhey  vere   when  we\llowed  them  to  irritate  and  anger  us,  that  complain  s 
and      i' pleasure   changed   into    merry-making   and    the   ridiculous.      Ihe 
latter   mn'ssion  could'not  be  resisted  when  you  saw  your  tellows  in  mis- 
fortmie   n  ustriously  striking  out  with  both  hands  from  morning  till  night, 
td    ct  c    y  a  lie  to^alk  foAear  of  ingulfing  some  handful  or  two  of  them, 
lie  sulferincrs  of  our  horses  were  painful  to  behold,  and  irremedvable 
We  i^^ide  dfvers   smokes  about  them,  which  sometimes  availed,  but  at 
Sll>r     mes  did  no  good.     On  this  night,  although  we  were  on  a  h^h  m  ge 
and  a  strong  wind  was  blowing,  the  mosquitoes  were  so  thick,  that  being 
Iriven  ao-ainst  our  tents  it  sounded  like  the  pattering  of  rain. 
%:  'vere  at  this  point  within  fifty  miles  of  Pemluna,  and  en.  d.ec  i  n 
Wcrinnin<-  to  chun-e  to  tlie  north-east,  we  had  to  descend  f.om  the  hills, 
anScr^s^eJ  several" little  streams  all  with  heavy  bodies  of  timber  on  their 

''to^^;^Z^'i^^^^^^  we  got  among  what^calb.. 

r  ^n^tit^^s  srtr^.£rit  is-^^bi^t^j  '^:^ 

we?e  wUii"  tenTiles  of 'our  destination,  I  almost  despaired  o  -er  ge^^^^^^ 
there  Our  horses  were  almost  exhausted.  'Ihe  cons  ant  hard  pulling, 
the  ravnges  of  mosquitoes,  and  not  being  able  to  feed  in  quiet,  were  too 

'"TLnrLieuTenant  Nelson,  the  quarler-master  forward,  to  pt  some  cads 
if  possible.  They  were  obtained,  and  returned  to  our  assistance  and  on 
the  1st  day  of  August,  1849,-having  been  out  since  the  Gth  of  June,-xNe 
Irrivcd  at  Pembimi,  ami  found  the  Red  river  and  the  Pembina  river  with 
^bout  twenf,/  feet  rise  in  them,  and  overflowing  ^^/^ir  banks. 

The  tradin-  establishment  of  Mr.  Kittson  is  in  the  fork  of  Red  and  Pem- 
oina  nve?  ami  north  of  the  Pembina.  We  left  our  wacjons  on  the  south 
Tnk  of  Pembina  river,  swam  our  horses  over  it,  and  took  our  stores,  ice, 

'''it  waT  witTi  difTiculty  that  we  could  find  dry  ground  sufficient  for  the 
company  to  pilch  their  tents.     The  marshes  allorded  good  grass  for  oat 

^°Mr!' Kittson,  when  we  met  him,  had  kin<lly  tendered  us  the  use  of  his 
houses;  and  Mr.  Role<le,  the  gentleman   left  in  charge  ^     "S    -mu      , 
nobtely  allorded  every  assistance  in  his  power.     It  was  matter  of  coi^  a 
ulatio?r  with  us  all  to  L'h  r-.:  point;  and  I  have  no  ^""''t  the  hoi^es  . ould 
navo  participated  in  ^U  .   -cral  joy.  could  they  have  articulated  an  ex- 

^^p:Xna(::^tl!:cSrvabout  the  mouth  of  thePembinai^^ 

is  a  low,  Hat  and  marshy  country,  with  large  quantities  oi  timber  along  Red, 

Pembina,  and  Tongue  rivers.   Red  river  at  this  point,  at  its  ordinary  stage,  is 


Doc.  No.  51. 


19 


red  until  the 
ended  by  the 
;  Sioux  were 
jr  over  fifty' 

•ie,  the  roads 

ttoms  spread 
^'e  camped  on 
e  bottoms,  on 
di  worse  than 
vat  complaints 
iculous.  The 
ellows  in  mis- 
ling  till  nie;ht, 
r  two  of  them, 
irremediable, 
vailed,  but  at 
m  a  high  ridge 
ick,  that  being 

our  direction 
from  the  hills, 
imber  on  their 

,vhat  are  called 
les,  over  a  wet 
sh.  When  we 
of  ever  getting 
t  hard  pulling, 
quiet,  were  too 

»  get  some  carts 
stance  ;  and  on 
h  of  June,— we 
bina  river  with 

f  Red  and  Pem- 

)ns  on  the  south 
our  stores,  &c., 

sufficient  for  the 
;)d  n;rass  for  oai 

s  the  use  of  his 
of  his  business, 
latter  of  congra- 
the  horses  would 
rticulated  an  ex- 

a  river  is  called,) 
imber  along  Red, 
ordinary  stage,  is 


about  one  hundred  and  twenty  yards  wide,  and  sixteen  feet  deep,  with  banks 
iromfftecn  to  twenty  feet  in  heighl.  I  expected  to  fnul  at  this  place  a  collec- 
tion ot  huts,  with  the  appearance  of  a  village;  but  Mr.  Kittson's  tradino- 
establishment  stands  alone.  Mr.  Belcourt,  the  Catholic  missionary,  lives 
about  one  mile  lower  down  on  the  Red  river,  and  has  erected  a  two-story 
house  (intended  for  a  Chippewa  school),  a  chapel,  and  some  out-houses. 

lliere  were  many  Indian  lodges  near,  occupied  by  Indians  and  half- 
breeds.  The  latter  generally  have  houses;  but  tiicy  build  in  the  timber 
along  the  rivers,  for  protection  from  the  cold  winds  of  winter  and  the 
convenience  of  wood.  They  had  be^en  driven  from  them  by  the  overflow 
of  the  river. 

It  was  my  intention  to  examine  the  country  east  and  west  of  Red  river 
for  twenty.five  or  thirty  miles,  and  I  waited  from  the  1st  to  the  2Gth  of 
August,  hoping  the  country  would  dry  sufficiently  for  me  to  pass  over  it 
but  was  disapi)ointed.     I'lie  improvement  of  the  prairie  by  a  few  successive 
clear  days,  a  hard  rain  would  restore  to  their  previous  impassible  condition. 
Knowincr  tliat  it  would  take  me  ten  or  fifteen  day«  to  pass  over  the  country 
as  I  wish  fi.,  and  despairing  of  any  improvement  in  the  prairie,  on  the  14th 
of  August  1  started  with  a  party  for  Pembina  mountains,  about  tliirty  miles 
west.     I  traveled  nearly  due  west  for  about  eight  miles,  and  found  the 
prairie  so  horribly  bad  that  I  turned  back.     I  had  a  guide  who  has  lived 
in  this  country  thirty-four  years,  and  he  selected  the  route  I  took  as  the 
best  one,  and  said,  after  seeing  the  condition  of  this  route,  it  would  be 
useless  to  attempt  any  other.     Our  horses  mired  over  nearly  the  whole  of 
the  distance.     The  country  east  of  the  Red  river  is,  much  of' it,  woodland  ; 
and  I  was  told  by  every  one  that  there  was  not  a  probability  that  I  could 
travel  over  it  on  horseback,  so  I  had  reluctantly  to  abandon  my  intention. 
The  people  say  that  the  last  summer  was  an  "extraordinary  one,  but  teli 
me  the  floods  are  sometimes  worse  than  I  saw  them.     About  twenty  years 
ago  the  waters  were  some  ten  or  fifteen  feet  higher  than  this  last  summer, 
when,  with  the  exception  of  the  position  that  Mr.  Belcourt's  establishment 
occupies,  there  was  not  a  single  point  not  covered   with  water.     I  saw 
evidences  of  overflows,  in  drift  wood,  out  on  the  prairies. 

I  visited  the  line,  marking  the  49th  i)arallel.  The  post  set  up  by  Major 
Long  had  rotted  away,  but  the  place  is  still  preserved  by  a  stake  that  is 
firmly  driven  in  the  ground.  I  placed  a  post  there  and  merely  marked  on 
It  "  Jlugiist  14,  1849."  There  is  a  small  house  belonging  to  a  half-breed, 
built  on  the  English  side,  within  a  few  feet  of  the  line.'  The  English  Fur 
Company's  trading  post  is  about  tiro  hundred  yards  tVorn  the  line^on  their 
territory,  consisting  of  a  small  '•  shanty,"  but  "they  now  liave  under  erec- 
tion ver>  extensive  buildings.  The  post  marking  the  line  is  thought  not  to 
be  accurately  on  the  49lh  parallel,  but  some  two  or  three  hundred  yards 
within  our  territory.  This  impression  arises  from  statei..  ^nts  said  to^have 
been  made  by  Major  Long,  as  well  as  English  observers,  and  the  cautious- 
ness they  exhibit  in  settling  near  the  marked  line.  1  did  not  attempt  to 
confirm  or  correct  the  position  of  the  post  placed  by  Major  Long,  for  fear 
of  leading  to  greater  errors.  But  Cajn.  Pope  got  himself  into  a  corres- 
pondence with  the  chief  factor  of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company  in  relation 
to  the  boundary  line.  I  forbid  him  as  an  ofiicer  of  the  expedition  corres- 
ponding on  that  subject  with  any  official  from  the  other  side  of  the  line. 

Soon   after   arriving  at  Pem"bina,  I  directed   the    Qr.  Master,    Lieut. 
Nelson,  to  procure  for  our  horses  forage,  if  possible  ;  our  work  horses  par- 


•20 


Doc.  No.  51. 


ticulr.rly  stcnd  in  n 


eed  of  it  they  had  become  weak  under  their  hardship 


ntrv,  he  liad  to   send  to   Fort   Garey,  the 


Tiiere  being  no  grain  in  the  cou...._,.,  .-- 

Enrrlish  seftbnient,  sixty  miles  below,  to  obtain  snch  supplies  as  he  want- 
ed,'^vvhich  on  account  of  the  difficulties  in  bringing  them  up  the  river,  we 
did  not  get  until  the  15th  August. 

The  officers  at  Fort  Garey,"^the  gentlemen  of  the  Fur  Company,  and  the 
c^olonists  tendered  us  cordio'i  invitations  to  visit  them,  andallbrded  us  every 
facility  in  replenishing  f)ur  decreasing  supplies. 

The  almost  incessant  rains  and  the  condition  of  the  country  prevented 
us  from  respondn.g  to  this  politeness,  and  we  can  now  only  offer  them  our 
grateful  recollection  of  their  kindness,  -.ith  the  hope  that  we  may  in  our 
own  country  sometime  have  an.  opportunity  of  reciprocating  their  attentions. 
The  soil  at  Pembina  is  a  vegetable  mould  of  a  foot  or  two  in  depth,  oa 
a  substratum  of  clay,  and  is  very  productive  in  the  indigenous  growth  o\ 
the  climate.     The  prairies  are  covcreil  with  a  most  luxurious  growth  of 
grass,  and  the  woodlands  with  a  rank  dense  thicket  of  undergrowth  and 
weeds.      Agricultural  pursuits  are  rewarded  by  a  bountiful  haiwc-t,  and 
there  is  hardly  a  product  that  tne  iarmer  values  that  cannot  be  raised  there 
in  abundance.     I  saw  at  Mr.  Kittson's  a  lield  of  brrley  and  potatoes,  and 
at  Uv.  Belcourt's  a  garden,  in  which  were  growing  all  the  vegetables  most 
prized  by  the  borticulturist,  all  of  luxuriant  growth.     The  Indian  corn  I 
saw  seen.ed  of  a  stunted  growth,  it  being  in  tassel,  and  the  stalk  not  more 
tlian  two  fert  high.     I  was  told  this  was  a  peculiar  kind  of  corn  that  did 
not  grow  iiigher'aiiy  where.     There  is  no  farming  on  our  side  of  the  line. 
The  h^lf-'breeds  have  small  gardens   about  their  huts,  but  the  overflow 
last  summer  drowned  out  or  injured  vegetable  life  in  them. 

In  the  vicinity  of  Fjrt  Gafey,  the  English  military  post  below,  I  am 
told  there  are  fine  farms.  I  saw  several  of  those  farmers  and  had  much 
.-.ouversation  with  them.  They  gave  ine  tlie  following  as  the  average  of 
their  crops : 

Wheal,       30  to    40  bushels  to  the  acre. 
Barlev,       40  "     50 
Oats,"         40  "    50 
Potatoes,  200  "  300 
Corn  does  not  do  well,  but  c;in  be  raised  in   small  quantities;  wheat  is 
sown  in  the  sjiring  and  gathered  in  the  fall.     Th(\\-  have  tried  the  fall-wheat 
and  think  it  will  do  well,  but  th(;  former  being  that  generally  used  in  >  le 
country,  it  is  difficult  to  introduce  a  diflerent  practic".     It  is  one  of  the 
peculiarities  of  these  people  to  discountenance  every  thing  like  diangc  of 
luihits,  although  it  may  come  recommended  by  improvement. 

The  country  cast  of  Red  riwr  is  a  mixture  of  prairie  and  woodland, 
intersected  by  numero'us  st.iams.  Its  general  character,  according  to  the 
best  accounts,  is,  that  it  is  a  good  snil,  well-timbered,  and  having  plenty  of 
water,  but  in  a  wet  season,  for  a  time,  it  is  impossible  to  travel  over  it  or 
to  occupy  It,  from  the  marshy  nature  of  the  soil. 

The  same  remarks  apply  to  the  country  cast  of  Red  river,  through  to 
the  Mississip])i,  and  along  our  line  to  Rainy  lake  and  Lake  Superior,  even 
the  few  hiLihla.nds  •nark'^d.  ihcn-  coino  under  the  sann'  cntcixory. 

The  country  ircst  ot'  I'.ed  ri\cr  is  a  l(;vcl  marshy  region  back  about 
thirty  miles  to  Pembina  mountain,  which  rises  into  a  high  jicak  near  the 
49th  parallel  and  ranges  oil'  nearly  south,  forming  the  western  bordt  r  oi 
the  valley  of  Red  rivei,  and  connects  with  the  liighlands  extending  ou* 
fn-rti  Lake  Tr^ivers,  near  the  head  waters  of  the  St.  Pelcr's  river. 


u 
a 


Doc.  No.  51. 


21 


;ir  hardsbipc. 

t  Garey,  the 

as  he  want- 

:he  liver,  we 

laiiy,  and  the 
•ded  us  every 

try  prevented 
ffer  them  our 
I  may  in  our 
eir  attentions. 
>  in  depth,  oa 
:>us  growth  of 
>us  9:ro\vth  of 
lergrowth  and 
I  harvc'-t,  and 
)e  raised  there 
potatoes,  and 
■getables  most 
Indian  corn  I 
jtalk  not  more 
corn  that  did 
le  of  the  line, 
the  overflow 

;  below,  I  am 
nd  had  much 
Lhe  average  of 


ties ;  wheat  is 

the  fall-wheat 

ly  used  in  <  le 

is  one  of  the 

like  change  of 

and  woodland, 
cording  to  the 
ivint;  plenty  of 
ivel  over  it  or 

rer,  through  to 
Superior,  even 
iry. 

)n   hack   about 

peak  near  the 

^tcrn  bordt  r  of 

exiending  ou^ 

river. 


We  left  Pembina  on  the  afternoon  of  the  26th  of  August  on  our  return 
and  had  lor  about  fifteen  miles  the  same  difficulties  to  contend  with  that 
we  encountered  gomg  out,  but  at  this  point  the  prairie  began  to  improve. 
There  had  evidently  not  been  so  much  rain  as  at  Pembina,  and  twenty- five 
or  thirty  miles  farther  on  the  roads  became  good  and  we  travelled  without 
any  serious  interruptions,  averaging  more  than  tioenty  miles  a  day  until  we 
reached  Fort  Snellmg,  the  18th  of  September,  1849,  making  the  distance 
Irom  Pembina  to  Fort  Snelhng,  measured  coming  down,  471  miles  in  23^- 
(lays.      We  were  fifty-seven  days  going  up. 

On  the  morning  of  the  1st  of  September  we  found  a  heavy  frost  on  the 
ground,  and  tnis  with  numerous  others  began  to  affect  the  grass.  Our 
horses  having  to  labor  and  travel  all  day  became  very  weak  by  the  time 
we  reached  the  Mississippi,  on  the  14th  of  September,  but  gettino-  fbnge 
at  Sunk  Rapids,  on  the  Mississippi,  our  horses  went  through  to  FoPt  Snell- 
ing  with  ease. 

\Ve  were  three  months  and  twelve  days  out,  travelled  nearly  a  thousand 
miles  without  forage  (with  the  exception  of  a  Tew  days),  had  the  worst  of 
roads,  rivers  to  swnn  almost  daily,  and  the  unceasino-  annoyance  of  mos- 
quitoes, and  lost  but  one  horse  and  one  mule.  The'horse  got  away  and 
could  not  be  recovered;  the  mule  died.  On  returning,  we  crossed  the 
Shayenne  river,  higher  up  than  our  crossing  going,  where  it  emerges  from 
the  highlands,  lhe  crossing  is  much  better.  It  has  a  sandy  bottom,  and 
IS  no.  deep,  from  these  hills  i.  is  plainly  perceptible  they  are  a  part  of 
the  range  seen  in  the  west  on  our  route  back  to  Pembina. 

J  had  prepared  at  Pembina  a  cart,  knowing  a  wagon  could  n  .<  pass  on 
that  rrute,  lor  the  purpose  of  crossing  Red  river,  near  the  mo-  (h  of  the 
Shayenne,  and  going  by  the  head  of  the  Otter-tail  lake  to  Crow-win.r  and 
fort  (janes,  but  was  prevented  by  an  accident.  My  desire  to  go  on  that 
route  arose  solely  from  the  wish  to  report  upon  it  from  personal  observa- 
tion, not  doubting  but  that  I  would  find  it,  ja-t  as  it  had  been  reported  to 
me,  impracticable  for  wagons."  My  inabiKty  to  go  was  not  so  much  a 
subject  of  regret,  as  I  am  confident  that  the  best  route  is  the  one  we  took. 
.  i  he  accident  referred  to  was  an  injury  f  received  in  my  loot,  while  chas- 
ing buffalo  on  the  30th  of  August,  which  confined  me  "to  the  wao-on  and 
crutches  for  hve  or  six  days,  and  from  uhich  I  have  not  yet  encirely  re- 
ccovereu.  •' 

In  the  foregoing  I  have  endeavored  to  condense  as  much  as  possible 
from  my  journal  a  description  of  the  countrv  and  march,  and  fear  that  I  have 
been  difruse  without  accomplishing  my  object  in  a  satisfactory  manner.  I 
will  close  this  portion  of  my  report  by  the  following  extracts  fr nn  my 
journal,  made  on  reaching  the  .'Mississippi  river. 
_  September  14th.— Marched  21,',  miles,  and  camped  on  the  Mississippi 
river.  Here  our  troubles  end,  and  right  glad  we  were,  too,  once  more  to 
see  t  ns  magnificent  river.  We  have  been  wading,  swimmin..-,  and  plung- 
ing through  dirty  little  streams  dignified  with  the  titles  of  rivers,  until  we 
began  to  lose  the  true  conception  of  what  a  real  river  was. 

The  country  behind  us  is  a  most  sinirular  one,  and  now  to  describe  it  is 
a  problem  with  me:  but  from  this  noint  bnek  to  VVhite-boM.r  hike,  I  th.ink 
It  a  better  cfMintry  tha.i  any  I  liav(;  seen  in  the  north.  There  i^  a -rn-ai 
deal  of  prairie— too  much— but  it  is  an  excellent  soil,  .md  well  ndapte.l  to 
the  growth  of  agricultural  products,  and  there  is  timber  sufficient  fbr  farming 
purposes,  if  economically  used. 


22 


Doc.  No.  51. 


From  White-Bear  lake  to  Otter-Tail-lake  river,  there  is  only  timber 
clustering  around  a  few  lakes.  The  prairie  is  hilly  and  dry,  and  at  many 
points  no  wood  can  be  seen.  At  Otter-Tail-lake  nver  there  is  no  uw, 
and  thence  to  the  crossin^^  of  Red  river,  it  is  a  marsh  without  a  bru  h 
Both  banks  of  Red  river  are  densely  covered  ^vlth  timber,  varying  in  width 
from  half  a  mile  to  two  miles,  and  thence  to  Pembina,  genenjUy  a  tlat 
marshy  country,  traversed  by  streams  of  the  size  known  as  branches, 
airouo-h  called  rivers,  at  intervals  of  fifteen  and  twenty  miles  lliese 
h  ve  mall  tips  of  timber  along  their  banks  When  we  get  within  hfty 
miles  of  Pembina,  the  country  is  better  supplied  with  wood;  but  we  are 
back  some  twenty-five  miles  from  Red  river,  and  close  upon  the  southern 
ranoe  of  Pembina  mountains.  I  have  never  seen  a  more  luxuriant  growth 
of  g^ass  in  any  country.  The  early  snows  cover  the  grass  and  P^-eserve 
full  of  nutriment  sufficiently  for  the  subsistence  of  horses  and  cattle  and 
the  immense  herds  of  buffalo  that  winter  m  this  seemin^,ly  inhospitable 
climate.  The  horse  paws  away  the  snow.  The  ox  and  butfalo  remove  it 
with  the  nose. 

Crossi  lo-  the  Mississippi  river  at  Sank" Rapids,  about  one  mile  below  the 
mouth  of"theWatab  river,  we  entei  the  country  belonging  to  the  bioux 
Indians.  The  Watab  river  is  the  southern  boundary  ot  the  \\  innebago 
country.  The  country  along  our  route  to  the  Shayenne  river  ^^^^^ 
by  the  Sioux,  and  their  right  is  acknowledged  by  other  tribes  with  the 
exception  of  the  portion  traversed  between  the  two  crossings  ot  Red  river 
The  west  of  Red  river  was,  and  I  believe  is  still  claimed  by  the  Sioux ; 
but  a  lonff  series  of  conllicts  between  them  and  the  Chippewas,  Lrees,  ice, 
have  dispossessed  the  former  and  the  country  north  oi  \\.^  Shayenne  river, 
is  now,  and  has  been  for  a  long  period  held  by  the  (  Inpi.ewas,  and  the 
Shayenne  is  tacitly  acknowledged  as  the  boundary  bstween  Ihem. 

T'he  Chippewas  are  in  possession  of  the  country  from  Lake  Superior  to 
the  Red  river,  and  the  Red  river  country;  but  they  are  divided  into  many 
bands  that  claim  and  exercise  an  indepen.lency  oi  each  other,  llie  I  liip- 
pewas  of  Lake  Superior  and  the  Mississippi  river  claim  to  be  the  t  uppe- 
wa  nation,  and  have   a  chief  whom  the  dilferent  bands   acknowleilge   as 

//V,s7  in  authority.  ,•    i   .     .1     i       1    ^,. 

The  general  term  of  "Pillager  Chippewas"  is  applied  to  the  bands  oc- 
cupyiuL^  the  country  about  Otler-Tail  lake,  Red  lake,  Pembina  and  they 
yield  no  obedience  "to,  or  acknowledgement  of  a  Imid  vhnj.  Ihey  liave 
iarticipaled  in  none  of  the  treaties  held  with  the  Chippewas  and  have  re- 
ceived no  annuities  from  the  United  Stales.  They  are  a  wild  roving  race 
of  i.eople,  with  but  few  wants,  and  these  are  supplivd  by  the  country. 
They  know  but  little  of  the  United  States,  and  have  no  bonds  uniting 
them  with  our  government,  as  other  tribes  have,  by  the  o  .ligati.n.s  ot 
treaty  slnndations.  Tliev  live  prin.ipallv  by  the  chase,  and  warlike  l.y 
nature  and  habit,  come  oflen  in  cnnflicl  wilh  their  irre.'oncilable  enemies, 
the  Sioux,  while  hunting  on  the  jilains. 

The  Sessitou  and  Yankton  bands  of  Sioux  living  about  l/aU.;-(pii-»  oru , 
\\\.j  Sin.u>  hike,  and  Lake  Travels,  are  a  very  numerous  and  mtractal.le 
proud  and  adventurous  race  of  people,  who  assume,  m  their  own  name  and 
ri-rht,  to  occui.v  and  control  the  immense  tract  of  country  lying  about  litg 
SUme  lake,  back  to  the  Missouri  river,  and  up  the  Siiay.;nne  river  to 
Devirs  lake.     Within  these  limits  are  the  Plains,  over  which  roam  the 


Doc.  No.  51. 


23 


only  timber 
nd  at  many 
s  no  wood, 
lit  a  brush, 
ng  in  width 
erally  a  tiat 
s  branches, 
les.  These 
within  fifty 
but  we  are 
lie  southern 
•iant  growth 
I  preserve  it 
1  cattle,  and 
inhospitable 
lo  remove  it 


le  below  the 
)  the   Sioux 

Winnebago 
;r  is  claimed 
es.  with  tlie 
)f  Red  river. 
f  the  Sioux ; 
;,  Crees,  &.C., 
lyenne  river, 
vvas,  and  the 
liem. 

'  Superior  to 

id  into  many 

TheC'hip- 

tlie  t'hippe- 
nowledge   as 

he  bands  oc- 
na,  and  they 
They  have 
and  have  re- 
d  rovinu;  race 
the  country, 
innds  uniting 
)bligati()ns  of 
lI  warlike  by 
able  enotuies, 

d;t'-(iui-Porte, 
(1  intractable, 
)wn  naTiic  aiid 
ing  about  Hig 
cnne  river  to 
lich  roatn  the 


immense  herds  of  Buffalo,  that  the  whole  north-west  have  a  mutual  inter- 
est in^  and  dependence  on,  for  their  subsistence.  These  Indians  know  but 
little  of  our  government,  and  nothing  from  any  benefits  it  has  bestowed 
upon  them.  They  disregard  our  exhortations  to  the  habits  and  pursuits  of 
civilization.  We  met,  between  the  Mississippi  and  White-Bear  lake,  a 
few  hunting  parties  of  the  Winnebagos,  and  at  White-Bear  lake,  two  par- 
ties of  Winneba-gos  came  to  our  camp.  They  were  hunting,  but  none  go 
farther  west  for  fear  of  falling  in  with  the  Sioux.  They  were  desirous  of 
accompanying  us,  as  they  could  go  in  safety  to  see  the  country  farther 
back,  and  get  among  the  buifalo,  but  were  not  prepared  for  so  long  a  trip. 

Near  Elbow  laka  we  saw  an  Indian  on  the  prairie,  and  stopping  him  to 
"  talk,"  others  began  to  appear  from  cdl  sides,  and  in  a  few  minutes  twenty- 
five  of  them  were  around  us.  They  were  the  Chippewas  from  Otter-Tail 
lake.  They  said  they  were  on  a  hunt ;  but  it  was  evident  from  their  ap- 
pearance and  manner  they  were  a  war  party.  I  asked  them  to  follow  me 
into  the  camp,  which  they  did,  and  I  learned  from  them  that  a  party  of  eight 
or  ten  were  in  the  advance,  seeking  an  opportunity  to  retaliate  on  the  Sioux 
for  the  murder  of  a  Chippewa  woman,  which  had  been  committed  by  them 
sometime  before. 

They  were  a  fine-looking  party  of  Indians;  seemed  to  be  very  friendly 
and  glad  to  see  us.  I  told  them  the  President  would  be  much  pleased  to 
see  the  frontier  quiet,  and  all  the  Indian  tribes  disposed  to  be  friendly  to- 
ward one  another.     They  say  they  act  only  in  self-defence. 

This  band  numbers  about  "fifty  warriors;  they  are  friendly  with  the  Mis- 
sissippi Chippewas,  and  the  Winnebagos.  They  seem  to  be  well  pleased 
with  their  home  on  Otter-Tail  lake. 

They  say  they  get  an  abundance  of  game,  fish,  wild  rice,  the  wild  i)ota- 
to,  and  make  large  quantities  of  maple  sugar.  I  gave  them  some  tobacco, 
and  they  gave  us  a  war-dance,  and  promised  to  return. 

We  saw  no  more  Indians  until  we  got  to  Pembina,  where  I  find  there 
are  many  that  regard  that  as  their  home.  At  that  time  there  were  but  few 
about,  iiolh  Indians  and  half-lireeds  had  heard  of  the  approach  of  a  mili- 
tarv  force,  and  had  waited  a  long  time  at  Pembina  for  its  arrival,  and  not 
seeing  it  when  expected,  imagined  it  had  turned  back  on  account  of  the 
unfavorable  season. 

'I'lie  most  of  them  had  gone  to  the  plains  after  bulfalos.  Between  the 
lOtli  and  2()th  of  August  tiiey  began  to  return,  and  a  large  number  of  them 
came  to  see  me.  I  told  them  I  wanted  to  see  them  all  together,  when  those 
that  were  still  absent  came  in. 

There  are  at)out  one  huiulred  and  fifty  warriors,  which  would  make  a 
total  of  five  or  six  lumdred  Indians  thai  claim  to  be  Pembina  Inihans. 
'fhey  are  almost  entirely  Chipju-was;  a  few  of  them  are  Crees  and  Assin- 
aboines.  They  were  rathei-  stragglers  than  a  liand,  liaving  no  chief  or  organi- 
zation amongst  them.  They  seemed  aware  of  the  advantages  of  some 
ruling  authority,  and  had  endeavored,  on  several  occasions,  to  select  a 
cliH'f,  but  the  inidtitudc  of  aspirants  for  the  first  i)lace  defeated  all  their 
attempts  at  organi/.ation. 

When  all  the  hunters  returned,  they  came  to  see  me.  There  were  almut 
one  iiundred  w;;fiif>r5  ]>resrnt  o\'  the  "Hcd  ri%<T  Cbipppwas.  I  told  them  I 
had  been  sent  to  that  country  1).Y  the  I'resident  (these  people  recognizing 
no  authority  but  that  emanating  from  tiie  President)  to  examine  it  and  see 
them  ;  that  the  President  was  a  stranger  to  them  and  their  country;  thai 


24 


Doc.  No.  51. 


he  was  anxious  to  brin^  them  within  the  protecting  guardianship  of  the 
United  States;  to  provide  them,  as  our  other  Indian  tribes,  with  such  neces- 
saries of  life  as  were  now  beyond  their  reach  ;  to  encourage  and  aid  them 
in  habits  of  life  that  would  place  them  above  a  dependence  on  the  game 
of  the  plains  for  their  subsistence  ;  that  the  President  regretted  the  un- 
friendly feelings  and  hostile  meetings  between  them  and  the  Sioux,  when 
they  met  on  the  plains;  that  it  wiis'liis  ardent  wish  that  our  frontiers  might 
be  traversed  in   safety  by  whites  and  Indians ;  and  that  he  would  adopt 
measures  to  enforce  this  wish  by  sending  large  military  forces  into  the 
country  ;  that  he  would  try  to  bring  about  a  brotherly  feeling  between  them 
and  the  Sioux,  and  whichever  was  intractable  or  false  to  engagements 
would  be  punished;  that  if  the  practice  of  killing  each  other,  whenever 
they  met,  was  persisted  in,  the  Indian   who  should  kill  one  of  another 
tribe,  would  be  taken   and   perhaps  turned  over  to  the  friends  of  the  de- 
ceased.    I  urged  them  to  organize  themselves  into  a  band,  and  appoint 
their  chiefs  that  they  might  have  some  order  and  government  amongst 
themselves  with  chiefs  to  arrange  their  matters  of  dispute :  that  as  they 
were,  if  the  United  States  had  any  business  to  transact  with  them,  there 
was  no  person  to  address  from  whom  the  wishes  of  the  people  could  be 
obtained,  &,c.,  &c. 

They  replied  to  me  by  several  speakers,  in  substance :  that  they  had 
separated  from  the  Chippewas  of  Lake  Superior  a  long  time  back,  and 
came  to  that  country  in  the  pursuit  of  game  and  furs;  that  the  country 
was  then  claimed  by  the  Sioux ;  that  they  were  constantly  lighting  with 
them  until  a  recent  jieriod,  since  which  they  have  been  left  in  quiet  and 
undisturbed  possession.  They  and  the  Sioux  now  regard  the  Shayenne 
river  as  the  boundary  between  them  ;  neither  ever  crosses  this  river  without 
apprehension. 

Their  "old  men"  say  that  the  buffalo  have  decreased  about  one-half 
within  their  recollection  ;  that  the  reilecting  portion  of  them  see  very 
plainly  that  the  buffalo  must  eventually  disappear,  and  their  children  will 
be  left  to  starve.  They  wish  to  make  a  commencement  at  cultivating  the 
soil  lor  their  subsistence,  but  are  without  the  means  of  doing  it.  Blankets 
and  clothing,  so  indispensably  necessary  in  that  climate,  can  be  obtained 
only  from  fur  companies  at  exorbitant  jirices,  and  their  peltries  sell  very 
low,  &,c.  Ike, 

They  could  not  agree  about  their  chiefs,  and  requested  me  to  appoint 
them,  which  I  declined  ;  but  after  much  frviitless  discussion,  with  no  jiros- 
pect  of  agreement  amongst  thenisidves,  I  told  them  that  there  were  three 
men,  whose  names  I  gave  tliem,  that  had  bet-n  higlily  recommended  to  me 
as  suitable!  men  for  chiefs;  that  thry  could  retire  and  talk  tlie  matter  over 
amongst  themselves,  and  if  they  agreed  to  tiiese  men  they  could  return  the 
next  day  and  inform  me.  Tluiy  came  back  tlu  ni'\t  thiy  in  a  hody,  ami 
informed  me  that  they  had  agrctvl  upon  tlie  men  I  had  noininatfd  to  them. 
"Sakikwanel,"  in  Knglisli  "-Green  Feather,''  to  be  principal  chief. 
"  iMajekkwadjiwau,''  in  Englisli  ''  V.m\  of  the  Current,"  to  be  "ist  2d 
chief. 

"•  Kakakanawakkagan,"  in  English  "  Long  legs,"  to  be  2d  2d  chief. 

Tiit-rse  are  the  men  llit-y  s»!leotf(i,  with  my  a>sistance,  for  their  cuii  is.     I 

did  not  feel  authorized  to  appoint  tlieiii,  and  inteiuU'd  to  do  it  conditionally 

and  submit  their  crcdcnliah  to  the  (jovcinor  of  INlinnesota  Territory,  and 

he  Superintendant  of  Indian  Atfairs  therein  ;  but  linding  that  a  conditional 


1 


Doc.  No.  51. 


25 


hip  of  the 
■iuch  neces- 
(1  aid  them 
I  the  game 
ed  the  un- 
Loux,  when 
itiers  might 
ouhl  adopt 
BS  into  the 
tween  them 
igagements 
•,  whenever 
of  another 
of  the  de- 
ind  appoint 
nt  amongst 
iidt  as  they 
them,  there 
lie  could  be 

at  they  had 
e  back,  and 
he  country 
ghting  with 
1  quiet  and 
e  Shayenne 
iver  without 

>ut  onn-half 
in  see  very 
liildren  will 
livating  the 
.  Bliinkels 
be  obtained 
es  sell  very 

i  to  appoint 
ith  no  jiros- 
i  were  throe 
jnded  to  me 
matter  over 
d  return  the 
a  body,  ami 
led  to  them. 
//  r///'7'. 

0  ])e  "ist  2d 

Id  chief. 
w  r'iiii  is.      I 
■onditionally 
L'rritory,  and 

1  conditional 


exercise  of  authority  in  the  matter  would  only  give  rise  to  fiirlher  dissen- 
sions, I  presented  these  chiefs  with  appointments,  in  writing,  dating  the 
24th  of  August,  '49,  and  gave  each  of  them  a  medal. 

I  am  happy  to  say  that,  since  my  return,  Governor  Ramsey  has  approved 
of  my  course.  After  the  above  narrated  ceremony  was  over,  I  again  spoke 
to  them,  and  told  them  what  was  expected  of  them  in  their  intercourse 
with  whites,  with  half-breeds,  with  each  other,  and  with  neighboring  tribes. 
I  told  the  chief  what  were  his  duties,  and  also  the  sub-chiefs. 

The  Indians  had  gotten  their  guns,  and,  after  the  "  talk"  was  over,  fired 
a  salute  to  their  new  authorities,  and  I  believe  everybody  was  satisfied. 
We  saluted  the  new  dignitaries  with  several  discharges  from  our  howitzer. 

These  Indians  remain  but  for  a  short  time  about  Pembina  :  their  great 
resort  is  to  the  ivest,  in  the  ranges  of  Pembina  and  Turtle  mountains,  where 
furs  and  game  are  yet  abundant ;  and  east  of  Red  river  as  far  as  Lac-des- 
Roseaux,  forty  or  fifty  miles,  where  Mr.  Kittson  has  a  branch  of  his  trading 
establishment.  Their  reliance  for  food  is  principally  on  the  builiilo,  but 
they  get  some  smaller  game;  and  when  these  resources  fail,  the  supe"*- 
abundance  of  fish  supplies  them,  which,  as  the^'  can  be  caught  by  the 
women  and  children,  who  are  always  the  most  industrious,  makes  them 
careless  about  the  future.  They  go  to  the  "Plains"  with  the  half-breeds 
after  buffalo.  While  out  on  one  of  these  excursions  last  summer,  west  of 
the  Shayenne  river  and  south  of  Devil's  lake,  they  fell  in  with  a  large 
hunting  narty  of  Sioux  :  a  conflict  ensued,  and  several  were  killed  on  both 
sides,  and  many  wounded.  Many  of  the  Red  lake  Cliippewas  were  with 
them,  and  the  total  about  one  hundred  andjifty  warriors.  The  Sioyx  were 
more  numerous,  and  from  what  I  hear  were  successful  in  the  engagement. 
Scalps  were  taken  by  both  parties;  and  those  in  possession  of  them  being 
the  first  to  return  to  Pcmljina,  the  scalp-dance,  if  not  to  crowded  houses, 
was,  to  large  assemblies,  the  rage  up  to  the  time  we  left.  The  scalps  are 
ornamented  with  ribbons  and  feathers,  and  faslenetl  to  the  end  of  a  stick 
about  three  feet  long.  In  the  dance,  the  women  carry  them  elevated  above 
the  heads  of  the  dancefs.  This  inspires  them  in  the  "  mazy "  with  un- 
wonted hilarity  and  enthusiasm. 

These  Indians  gather  largely  of  peltries  in  the  winter,*  and  sell  to  the 
traders.  Mr.  Kittson,  I  think,  has  the  principal  trade  with  them;  and  the 
Indians  themselves  told  me  they  preferred  trading  with  him.  But  the 
Hudson  Bay  Company,  so  close  by,  and  dealing  in  ardent  spirits,  get  many 
of  their  furs.  I  would  not  state  this  from  the  many  rumors  I  liear  about 
this  traflic,  as  the  Directors  of  the  Company  have  thought  proper  to  state 
that  this  traffic  was  banished  from  their  territories,  had  not  the  Indians  told 
me  that  en  their  return  from  their  hunts,  when  they  had  plenty  of  furs, 
they  were  in  the  habit  of  going  to  the  English  trading-house  and  having 
"big  drunks,"  sometimes  of  a  week  or  two  in  duration. 

Acconling  to  the  l)est  information  1  could  get,  the  Hudson  Bay  Company 
will  not  sell  liquor,  but  will  exchange  it  for  furs:  money  will  not  buy  it, 
but  fin-s  can  obtain  it  without  limitation.  I  do  not  think  this  lompany 
exerrise  a  very  powerful  iniluence  over  the  Indians.  If  they  ever  did,  that 
influence  is  now  much  impaired  by  a  harsh  anil  illiberal  policy  towards 
thcni.  The  fruliiriKs  arc  Mot  oncouiiiged  to  viSit  the  r.ngiish  nettleinents 
down  about  Fort  Garey,  and  conse(iuently,  I  am  told,  rarely  go  there.  At 
the  trading  jjosts,  when  they  have  no  furs,  they  are  not  noticed.  The 
Crecs,  in  what  numbers  I  do' not  know,  live  about  the  Luke  of  the  Woods, 


26 


Doc.  No.  51. 


Rainy  lake,  and  extend  to  Hudson's  bay.  The  largest  portion  o  them 
live  in  the  English  territories  ;  many  of  them,  united  with  the  Assinabwans, 
occupy  the  co"untry  west  of  the  Assinabwan  river.  •     .,    •    i       , 

I  saw  many  of  the  Red  lake  Indians.  They  say  they  have  in  their  band 
about  150  warriors.  They  like  the  country  about  Red  lake.  Ihey  say  it 
is  swampy,  but  with  some  fertile  and  tillable  lands  which  yield  them  arg-e 
quantities  of  corn  and  potato:  The  lake  is  i  led  with  "  white  fish,"  and 
Lmc  yet  abundant  about  it ;  all  of  which,  added  to  their  buffalo  meat,  is 
ample  for  their  subsistence.  They  are  in  constant  communication  with 
the  Chippewas  of  the  Mississippi.  .      .  ,  ■  ,       -n 

I  would  respectfully  refer  to  a  communication  which  will  accompany 
this  report,  from  the  Rev.  IVIr.  Belcourt,  in  relation  to  the  Indians  and  half- 
breeds  on  that  frontier.  My  statements  of  numbers,  &c.,  are  derived  trom 
the  In(hans,  and  they  have  very  indefinite  ideas  about  numbers. 

I  will  add,  that  Mr.  Belcourt 'is  a  Catholic  missionary  who  has  resided  in 
that  country  for  eighteen  years,  has  learned  the  Indian  languages  spoken 
on  that  frontier,  has  traveled  over  the  most  of  it,  and  is  perhaps  better  ac 
quainted  with  the  people  of  that  region  and  their  peculiarities,  than  any 
other  man  in  the  country.  I  found  him  a  polite,  educated  gentleman,  with 
a  self-sacrificing  devotion  to  his  high  and  holy  calling,  that  cannot  but 
excite  admiration  in  a  professor  of  Christianity,  and  respect  trom  the  un- 
believer and  heathen.  His  wish  for  assistance  in  the  pubhcation  of  his 
Dictionary  of  the  Chippewa  language,  is  worthy  of  the  tavorahle  considera- 
tion of  a  liberal  government,  which  is  striving  in  such  profitless  and  nu- 
merous ivays  to  ameliorate  the  condition  of  these  unfortunate  people. 

Half-hreeds. 
This  IS  a  distinct  class  of  people  residing  upon  our  frontier,  dilTenng 
materially  from  the  Indian  and  the  American  (citizens  of  the  U.  N.,)  in 
manners,  customs  and  pursuits;  and  in  numbers  and  position  of  sutlicient 
importance  to  be  worthy  of  consideration  from  our  government.     1  hey  are 
the  descendants  of  the  earlv  cohMiists  of  that  country,  by  intermarriage  witfi 
the  Chippewa,  Cree  and  \4ssinabwan   Indians,  and  ^vel•e,  at  a  period  not 
remote,  residents  upon  our  soil  in  their  entire  strength.     When  the  line  ot 
the  49th  parallel  was  marked,  and  the  Hudson  Bay  Company  found  them- 
selves located  on  our  soil,  the  trading-posts  of  that  company  were  removed 
down  the  Red  river  about  sixty  miles.     The  half-breeds  being  principaly 
in  the  employ  of  that  company,  and  dependent  upon  them,  were  obliged  to 
follow.     This  obligation  arose  from  their  inability  to  get  the  necessaries  ot 
life  from  other  sources  than  from  the  a<j:pnts  of  this  company,      ihis  re- 
moval, I  believe,  was  about  the  year  18-24,  when  there  was  no  communi- 
cation between  that  point  and  the  Mississippi  river  except  by  braving  the 
perils  of  a   long  and  dilficult  journey,  through  a  wild  waste  of  country 
inhabited  alone  by  numerous  hostile  tribes  of  Indians.     With  this  view  ot 
the  case,  we  may' well  say  they  were  compelled  to  leave  our  soil.     V\  itlun 
the  last  five  or  six  years,  the  settlements  on  the  Mississippi  nver  having 
extended  themselves' to  a  point  within  some  400  miles  of  Penibina  ;  the 
Pstnbiishment  of  a  Fur  Company  post  on  our  side  ol  the  line  by  Mr.  Kiltson, 
and  the  annual  transportation,  by  large  trains  ot  carts,  of  meicuai)ai/e  to 
that  country  ;  these  half-breeds  have  began  to  return,  and  are  fust  lilling 
up  again  the  frontier  within  our  bonlers.  .         ,  ,  *    i 

The  Hudson  iiay  Company  have  a  charter  which  gives  them  the  control 


n 


Doc.  No.  51. 


27 


on  of  them 
ssinabwans, 

1  their  band 
They  say  it 
I  them  laro-e 
e  fish,"  and 
falo  meat,  is 
cation   with 

accompany 
,ns  and  half- 
lerived  from 
s. 

IS  resided  in 
ages  spoken 
IS  better  ac- 
es, than  any 
tie  man,  with 
t  cannot  but 
Vom  the  un- 
ation  of  his 
le  considera- 
iless  and  nn- 
people. 


ier,  dilTering 
he  U.  S.,)  in 

of  sutlicient 
t.  They  are 
carriage  with 

a  period  not 
•n  tlie  line  of 

found  them- 
rere  removed 
icr  principally 
!re  obliged  to 
lecessaries  of 
ly.  This  re- 
no  corainuni- 
V  braving  the 
'e  of  country 
1  this  view  of 
soil.  Within 
i  river  having 
^.'inl)ina  ;  the 
f  Mr.  Kiltson, 
erchaiiJi/e  to 
ire  fust  filling 

;m  the  control 


< 


of  an  immense  territory,  within  which  they  reserve  or  appropriate  entirely 
to  themselves  the  fur  trade.  This  is  the  only  profitable  business  of  the 
country,  and  a  monopoly  of  it  by  a  company  must  necessarily  make  de- 
pendents of  all  other  inhabitants.  This  restriction  cannot  be  infracted 
within  their  territories,  or  by  their  residents  out  of  tiiem,  without  a  liability 
to  imprisonment  and  fines.  The  farmer's  title  to  his  land  is  with  the  con- 
dition that  he  is  not  to  engage  in  the  fur  trade.  The  merchant,  the  me- 
chanic, the  day-laborer  and  the  hunter,  are  residents  only  upon  this  condi- 
tion ;  and  the  entire  interests  of  the  country  are  thus  made  to  center  around 
a  business  that  the  great  majority  are  excluded  from.  I  was  told  on  ray 
arrival  at  Pembina,  that  the  half-breed  population  were  anxious  to  return 
to  their  former  homes  within  our  borders ;  but  not  having  imbibed  any 
prepossesiaons  of  the  country — its  appearance  not  being  calculated  to 
inspire  them — I  was  incredulous  until  I  learned  that  it  was  rather  to  free 
themselves  from  disadvantageous  restrictions,  than  from  preference  for  a 
locality  which,  according  to  accounts  given  me,  is  inferior  to  the  one  they 
now  occupy.  They  also  have  a  lingering  fondness  for  the  place  of  their 
birth,  where  reminiscences  of  parents  and  childish  sports  are  revived  by 
surrounding  objects. 

They  furnished  me  with  a  list  of  the  actual  inhabitants  of  Pembina,  ex- 
clusive of  Indians,  giving  the  names  of  heads  of  families,  and  dividing  the 
whole  into  males  and  females,  as  follows: — 177  families;  of  these  511  are 
males,  and  515  are  females ;  making  a  total  of  1026  now  living  at  Pembina. 

They  have  about  600  carts,  300  oxen,  300  work  horses,  150  horses  for 
the  chase,  1500  head  of  horned  cattle,  a  few  hogs,  no  sheep.  The  half- 
breed  population  on  the  English  side  is  between  4000  and  5000,  Of  these 
it  is  confidently  expected  by  those  living  in  our  territory,  that  the  greater 
portion  of  thern  will  remove  to  the  United  States.  From  my  conversations 
with  them,  I  think  so  myself;  anil  I  am  almost  certain  of  it,  if  the  U.  S. 
prohibit  the  half-breeds  of  the  English  territory  from  coming  into  our  ter- 
ritories to  hunt  butialo. 

The  greater  part  of  these  people  are  descendants  of  the  Canadian 
French.'  They  speak  the  French  language,  are  nearly  all  Catholics,  with 
mild  and  gentle  manners,  great  vivacity,  generous  and  honest  in  their 
transactions,  and  disposed  to  be  a  civil  and  orderly  community.  They  are 
hale  and  hcartv,  robust  men,  evidently  accustomed  to  hardships  and  ex- 
posure, to  which  they  submit  cheerfully.  They  can  hardly  be  called  an 
industrious  people,  which  is  rather  attributable  to  circumstances  than  dis- 
position. I  am  told  they  commenced  farming  in  the  country,  but  finding 
no  market  for  their  jiroduce,  and  having  much  to  buy.it  was  necessary  that 
they  should  resort  to  occupations  that  would  yield  them  the  means  of 
purchasing  the  necessaries  of  life.  At  that  time,  the  Hudson  Bay  Company 
traders  were  the  only  possessors  of  merchandize  in  the  country,  and  would 
dispose  of  it  only  in  a  way  that  would  prouiote  their  own  trade.  This  was 
by  the'iemployincnt  of  tnippers,  voyageurs,  and  hunters  on  the  plains. 
From  the  hist'they  got  their  "dried  "meat''  and  "■  pcinniican,"  articles  of 
subsistence  which  are  almost  the  sole  depcmlence  of  the  people  of  that 
country.  This  always  finds  a  ready  sale  for  money  or  goods.  Into  these 
employ tnents  the  people  ha\i'  been" driven  by  neressity,  in  conritijuoncc  of 
whicli  they  had  to  negh-rt  their  farms;  the  practice  continuing,  they  aban- 
doned thein,  anil  are  now  the  victims  of  occupations  they  cannot  discard, 
ami  are  able  to  obtain  from  them  only  a  bare  subsistence.     They  now 


28 


Doc.  No.  51. 


devote  themselves  entirely  to  fur  hunting  and  the  chnse ;  by  the  former 
they  command  some  money,  and  by  the  latter  they  live.  They  go  to  the 
plains  in  the  Spring  and  Fall,  in  parties  of  from  300  to  500  hunters. 
They  appoint,  before  going  out,  a  captam  who  controls  and  directs  their 
hunts,  v-hich  assume  rather  the  character  of  an  expedition  than  the  unregu- 
lated excursions  of  Imlians  or  whites  when  abroad  with  such  objects.  1  heir 
families  go  with  them,  and  each  family  has  from  one  to  ten  carts.  For  an 
account  of  their  mode  of  hunting,  of  preparing  their  meat,  &c.  &c.,  I  will 
refer  you  to  a  sprightly  narrative  written  by  the  Rev.  Mr.  Belcourt,  which 
will  accompany  this  report.  From  these  hunts  they  procure  the  supplies 
they  subsist  on.  Within  our  territory  there  is  no  farming;  the  small 
gardens  they  cultivate  yield  so  triflingly,  that  they  are  hardly  worthy  of 

notice,  ,         ,  ■  ,    ,  •     -t 

They  build  log-cabins  generally  in  the  timber  which  they  occupy  in  the 
winter,  and  leave  in  the  summer.  Each  family  has  its  •'  lodge"  made  of 
dressed  buffalo  skin,  and  when  pitched,  it  is  of  a  conical  shape  ten  or 
fifteen  feet  high,  and  from  ten  to  fifteen  feet  in  diameter  at  its  base.  These 
have  a  doorwliy,  with  a  buffalo  skin  hung  over  it,  which  is  lifted  for  an  en- 
trance. The  fires  are  built  in  the  centre,  and  the  apex  of  the  lodge  has  an 
opening  through  which  the  smoke  escapes.  At  this  opening  a  win,g  is 
attached,  so  that  by  giving  it  a  certain  position  with  reference  to  the  wind, 
there  is  always  a  draft  sulhcient  to  carry  off  the  smoke. 

I  found  the   Half-breeds  possessing  the  semblance  of  a  government. 
They  had   a  council  consisting   of  five   of  their   principal  men,  in  which 
was  vested   a  jurisdiction  relating  to  transactions  among  themselves.     On 
the  24th  of  August  these  people  had  returned  from  their  Spring  hunt,  and 
about  200  of  the  liunters  came  to  see  me.     They  had  appointed  four  men 
as  their  speakers.     I  told  them  that  in  virtue  of  their  Indian  extraction, 
those  living  on  our  side  of  the  line  were  regarded  as  being  in  possession  of 
the  Indians'  right  upon  our  soil ;  that  they  were  on  our  frontiers  treated  with 
as  component  parts  of  the  Indian  tribes  ;  that  tliey  either  came  under  the  In- 
dians' laws  or  regulations,  or  formed  such  for  themselves.     I  urged  them 
to  organize  themselves  into  a  band  under  a  council  or  chiefs,  inv^'sted  with 
ample  authority  to  act  in  their  name,  in   all   matters  which  might  arise  to 
affect  their  interests,  to  preserve  and  enforce  order  and  harmony  ;  that  the 
President  would  not  allow  them  to  engage  in  any  of  the  difficulties  among 
our  Indians  on  the  plains;  that  they  were  expected  to  live  amicably  with 
all  Indian  tribes,  &c.,  itc.  ;  generally  to  be  good  citizens,  &c.,  &c.     They 
told  me  they  would  return  the  next  day  when  they  had  perfected  an  organ- 
ization they  were   then   arranging.     My  talk  had  taken  a  wide  range,  but 
not  of  importance  enough  to  be   even  abridged.     They  wished  to  rellect 
and  have  consultations  upon  it. 

The  next  day  thev  returned  in  aliout  the  same  numbers,  and  presented 
me  with  nine  names"  as  the  committee  they  had  selected  for  the  future  gov- 
ernment of  the  Half-breed  population  within  our  borders.  Mr.  VVilky.  the 
first  on  the  list,  is  the  president  of  the  committee.  He  is  a  French  Half- 
breed,  of  a  good  character,  well  disposed  towards  the  United  States,  and 
intelli<2;ent.  The  other  eight  of  the  council  are  men  the  most  esteemed  m 
the  country,  and  friendly  toward  the  United  States.  They  Miy  ll  is  their  wish 
to  become  agriculturists.  It  is  iheir  intention  to  make  their  improvements 
within  our  territory.  They  complain  of  the  immense  quantities  of  bullaloes 
that  are  killed  annually  and  carried  into  the  Hudson's  Bay  territory.    They 


Doc.  No.  51. 


29 


the  former 
y  go  to  the 

00  hunters, 
lirects  their 
the  unregu- 
cts.  Their 
ts.     For  an 

&c.,  I  will 
ourt,  which 
the  supplies 
;  the  small 
y  worthy  of 

cupy  in  the 
jo"  made  of 
liape  ten  or 
ise.  These 
d  for  an  en- 
odge  has  an 
i.g  a  wing  is 
to  the  wind, 

!;overnment. 
•n,  in  which 
selves.  On 
ig  hunt,  and 
:ed  four  men 
.  extraction, 
)ossession  of 
treated  with 
inder  the  In- 
urged  them 
nvestod  with 
light  arise  to 
ny  ;  that  the 
uities  among 
Bical)ly  with 
,  &c.  They 
ed  an  organ- 
ic range,  l)ut 
;ied  to  retlect 

nd  presented 
e  future  gov- 
r,  VVilky.  the 
FrencliIIalf- 
d  vStates,  and 
;  esteemed  in 

1  is  tlieir  wish 
mprovements 
■s  of  bullaloes 
:itory.    They 


i 


want  some  encouragement  and  aid  from  the  United  States  in  affording 
them  facilit5"s  for  communication  with  the  States.  They  are  anxious  to 
have  a  military  post  established  among  them.  They  complain  of  the  w  ant 
of  a  market  for  produce,  &c.,  with  a  variety  besides,  but  of  a  nature  so  ut- 
terly at  variance  with  the  usual  demands  of  a  people  upon  a  government, 
that  I  made  no  record  of  them. 

I  told  them  that,  on  the  subject  of  the  P^nglish  hunters  kdling  Lulialo,  I 
had  no  instrrctions  but  from  the  facts  that  the  Indians  were  making  the 
same  complaints ;  that  Major  Sumner  had  heen  ordered  to  the  plains  a  few 
years  before  with  a  military  forct^  purposely  to  drive  back  these  invaders, 
and  the  Hudson's  B<.y  Co.  were  so  stringent  in  their  laws  about  hunting  in 
their  territory,  I  thought  it  more  than  probable  that  the  United  States  would 
forcibly  prevent  such  trespasses,  were  they  persisted  in.  They  say  that 
Major  "Sumner  directed  them  to  put  up  notices  prohibiting  that  practice  ; 
that  they  had  done  so,  but  they  were  not  respected.  I  told  them  they 
ought  with  safety  to  act  upon  the  advice  of  Major  Sumner,  and  enforce  it, 
if  need  bo,  and  our  government  would  support  them,  as  Major  Sumner  was 
an  authorized  agent  and  reported  his  acts  on  that  frontier,  and  if  not  ap- 
proved, they  would  have  been  corrected.  , 

Their  des'ire  for  a  military  post  is  urged  on  the  ground  alone,  that  it  will 
give  them  a  market.  I  told  them  our  posts  were  established  for  the  pro- 
tection of  the  country.  That  if  an  armed  force  were  necessary  there  to 
protect  tlie  rights  of  the  citizens,  or  to  support  the  laws  of  the  country,  it 
might  be  grarTted  them,  but  that  1  was  confident  they  would  never  get  a 
raihtary  post  among  them  for  the  sole  purpose  of  affording  a  market  for  the 
surplus  produce.  They  are  beginning  to  be  imbued  with  the  progressive- 
ness  of  the  age,  and  expect  soon,  with  the  patronage  of  the  government, 
to  see  their  wilderness  smiling  in  prosperity  and  beauty  under  the  invigor- 
ating influences  of  railroads  and  steamboats.  The  mat ter-of- fact  business 
of  cultivating  the  soil  and  gathering  about  them  all  tlie  comforts  and  enjoy- 
ments that  a  provident  industry  can  bestow,  is  tame  in  their  excited  ima- 
ginations, and  they  did  not  listen  with  much  satisfaction  to  the  representa- 
tions I  gave  them  "of  the  prosperous  independence  of  our  farmers,  and  how 
they  attained  it.  They  have  nothing  to  sell,  and  in  fact  (in  the  way  of 
produce)  ha  "     ■  "othing  to  live  on  ;  still  they  clamor  for  a  market. 

As  the  Icit*.  "ecrefary  of  the  Interior  to  the  President,  in  relation 

vt  to  me  with  my  instructions,  I  ventured  to  suggest 
States  contemplated  opening  that  country  for  set- 
,, 1  It  would  be  necessary,  first,  to  extinguish  the  In- 
dian title.  That  this  was  not  determined  upon  ;  and  as  it  was  with  a  view 
of  ameliorating  their  condition  by  extending  to  them  in  full  the  rights  and 
privileges  of  citizens  of  the  United  Slates  and  the  beneiit  of  our  laws  and 
institutions,  much  would  depend  upon  their  wishes  on  the  subject,  liie 
Half-breeds  are  delighted  at  such  a  prospect,  and  would  readily  acquiesce 
in  reasonable  treaty  stipulations  for  the  country.  The  Indians  are  more 
phle.vmatic  of  their  high  appreciation  of  such  a  blessing,  though  they 
(lid  not  seem  averse  to  it;  and  I  doubt  not  would  be  easily  induced  to  con- 
sent. I  threw  out  the  suggestion  that  they  might  cogitate  upon  it  in  their 
musing  hours,  and  then  they  will  be  ready  to  act  if  they  should  ever  be 

called  upon.  ,  .       ,     ,    ,r^        i    •  r         i 

On  the  26th  of  August  when  we  left  Pembina  the  half  breeds  informed 

me  they  would  escort  us  a  short  distance  on  the  road ;  on  leaving,  we  fired 


to  that  frontier, 
to  them  that  thi 
tlement.     To  do 


t^trnMrnnffHti"*' 


ao 


Doc.  No.  51. 


them  a  parting  salute  from  our  howitzer.  About  seventy-five  of  them 
well-mounted  and  with  fire-arms  accompanied  us  two  or  three  miles,  and 
when  about  to  turn  back  they  informed  me  they  would  give  us  one  volley, 
and  drawing  up  in  line  with  great  promptitude  and  regularity  fired  one 
volley.  Reloading  almost  instantly  they  gave  two  to  the  Governor  of 
Minnesota,  and  again  they  gave  three  to  the  President  of  the  United  States, 
with  a  loud  and  prolonged  cheer.  I  told-them  that  we  were  under  many 
obligations  to  them  for  their  polite  and  kind  attentions  to  us  while  in  their 
country  and  were  thankful  for  the  testimonial  they  had  just  given  us  of  the 
kind  feeling  they  entertained  towards  us  ;  that  I  would  inform  the  Presi- 
dent and  Governor  of  the  favourable  estimation  in  which  they  were  held 
and  of  the  enthusiasm  which  their  names  inspired  amongst  a  people  living 
on  our  extreme  and  most  isolated  frontier,  'i'his  ended  our  visit  at  Pem- 
bina, and  left  us  on  our  way  home. 

Military. 
Under  my  instructions  as  follows  :— '"'  It  is  proposed  to  establish  a  new 
military  post  on  or  near  the  Red  river  of  the  North,  and  at  a  distance  from 
Fort  Gaines,  not  exceeding  200  hundred  miles.  For  this  purpose  it  is 
necessary  to  make  a  military  examination  of  that  country."  I  have  taken 
"Sank  rapids"' on  the  Mississippi,  76  miles  from  Fort  Snelling,  as  our 
starting  point,  because  it  is  the  one  where  .the  Mississippi  will  be  crossed 
by  nil  expeditions  tc  the  Red  river  country.  I  selected  the  route  crossing 
at  Sank  rapids,  in  preference  to  the  one  by  "  Crow  Wing,"  by  the  advice 
of  every  person  with  whom  I  talked  on  the  subject,  some  of  whom  had 
been  over  both.  The  route  taken  is  prairie  almost  the  entire  way,  and  in 
a  dry  spring  and  summer  or  in  the  fall  there  cannot  be  a  better  road,  as  we 
found  on  our  return  trip.  The  route  by  Crow  Wing  and  the  head  of  Otter- 
tail  lake  is  marshy  woodland  traversed  by  innumerable  streams,  covered  by 
"terris  tramblantes,"  and  with  the  exception  of  late  in  the  fall  and  winter 
cannot  be  travelled  over  without  great  difficulty,  even  by  the  Red  river 
cart.  This  is  not  an  unconsidered  assertion,  for  it  has  been  so  represented 
to  me  by  the  most  reputable  men  in  the  country ;  and  if  it  needed  any 
confirmation,  it  would  receive  it  from  the  fact  that  the  Red  river  carts 
do  not  travel  it,  nor  is  this  from  habit,  for  their  conductors  have  been  over 
the  route  and  condemn  it. 

Having  in  view  our  extending  frontier  and  the  nature  of  the  country,  I 
venture  to  suggest  that  Fort  Gaines  is  unfortunately  situated.  I  should  do 
so  with  more  reluctance,  were  I  not  aware  of  the  fact  that  the  distinguished 
officer  who  located  it,  pronounced  against  it  when  lie  examined  the  coun- 
try and  said  that  Sank  rapids  was  the  place  for  the  fort.  Fort  Gaines 
never  can  connect  or  be  one  of  the  chain  of  posts  to  protect  our  frontier. 
It  is  in  the  Winnebago  country  ar  d  near  the  Chippeway  line.  The  Mis- 
sissippi Chippeways  are  peaceable  among  themselves  and  well  disposed 
towards  the  United  States.  The  Winnebagos  have  no  inducements  to  seek 
an  outlet  north  ;  their  wishes  are  to  return  south  ;  l)eing  prevented  in  this, 
they  will  naturally  turn  to  the  west,  over  tliC  prairies  after  buffalo.  This 
condition  of  things  would  make  impossible  any  disagreement  between  these 
two  tribes,  and  Fort  Gaines  would  nut  be  in  a  country  where  lis  inllucnce 
is  required.  Any  movement  from  that  post  to  the  west  could  be  made 
more  easily  and  expeditiously  by  coming  down  45  or  50  miles  to  Sank 
rapids  foi  a  starting  point.     The  country  west  of  Fort  Gaines  is  woods 


Doc.  No.  51. 


31 


ive  of  them 
e  miles,  and 
one  volley, 
ty  fired  one 
lovernor  of 
lited  States, 
under  many 
Idle  in  their 
en  us  of  the 
m  the  Presi- 
■  were  held 
eople  living 
sit  at  Pem- 


\blish  a  new 
istance  from 
urpose  it  is 
[  have  taken 
lling,  as  our 
11  be  crossed 
)ute  crossing 
y  the  advice 
f  whom  had 
way,  and  in 
•  road,  as  we 
ead  of  Otter- 
I,  covered  by 
1  and  winter 
le  lied  river 
I  represented 
l  needed  any 
d  river  carts 
ve  been  over 

le  country,  I 
I  should  do 
:listinguished 
ed  the  coun- 
Fort  Gaines 
;  our  frontier. 
!.  The  Mis- 
;^ell  disposed 
nents  to  seek 
?nted  in  this, 
uffalo.  This 
etween  these 
its  irillucncc 
lid  be  made 
iles  to  Sank 
)es  is  woods 


with  many  little  streams  and  springs,  around  which  bogs  and  marshes 
abound,  over  which  it  is  almost  impossible  to  travel,  except  in  very  dry 
weather.  To  the  north-west  and  north  it  is  worse,  and  those  who  iiave 
travelled  over  it  tell  me  they  will  never  do  it  again,  unless  late  in  the  fall 
or  winter,  when  wood  is  an  object  on  account  of  cold  weather. 

The  Red  river  country  will  be  reached  almost  exclusively  by  the  route 
crossing  at  Sank  rapids  as  well  as  jjoints  higher  up  on  the  St.  Peters,  Big 
Stone  lake  and  Lake  Francis.  By  this  route  will  those  points  connect 
with  the  head  of  navigation  on  the  Mississippi,  and  if  Fort  Gaines  were 
at  Sank  rapids  it  would  be  the  ""commencement  and  depot  of  a  line  of 
posts  that  will  eventually  extend  to  the  Missouri  river. 

From  Sank  rapids  to  the  jwst  we  put  up  on  Red  river  it  is  163  miles. 
This  is  a  wide  interval  to  make  between  posts  in  so  wild  a  region,  sur- 
rounded by  the  wildest  and  worst  of  Indians.  By  a  reference  to  the  map 
it  will  be  seen,  the  meeting  point  between  the  Sioux  from  Lac-qui-Parle, 
Big  Stone  lake  and  Lake  Francis  ;  the  Chippeways  from  Otter-tail  lake, 
the  headwaters  of  the  Mississippi  and  the  Winnebagos  would  be  some 
50  or  60  miles  this  side  of  the  post  and  such  is  the  fact.  War  parties  formed 
on  either  side  skirt  the  lakes  along  the  route  we  passed  over  and  a  little 
east  of  it,  on  what  is  called  the  "  Coteau  du  grand  Bois,"  and  there  seek  to 
intercept  individuals  or  stnall  parties  of  hunters.  This  practice  is  what 
keeps  up  the  active  feuds  among  them.  The  time  has  passed  when  the 
Indians  met  each  other  in  pitched  battles,  and  now  we  have  not  nations  to 
pacify,  but  individual  rancor  to  assuage  and  eradicate. 

White  Bear  lake  is  a  position  that  probably  combines  more  advantages 
for  a  military  post  than  any  other  in  that  country  at  this  time.  It  is  75 
miles  from  Sank  rapids  and  88  from  the  post  set  up  on  the  Red  river.  It 
is  central  with  reference  to  the  bands  of  Indians  above  referred  to,  and  a 
force  there  would  have  the  tendency  to  draw  about  Indians  from  each  sur- 
rounding tribe  as  they  would  know  that  they  could  come  to  the  post  and 
be  protected.  This  association  would  in  a  little  time  cause  friendships  to 
spring  up  among  them,  the  influence  of  which  would  be  felt  by  each 
nation.  The  position  of  the  post  on  Red  river  is  out  of  the  range  of  these 
Indians,  with  the  exception  of  the  Otter-tail  lake  band,  and  beyond  the 
point  where  a  barrier  or  a  neutral  ground,  that  a  military  post  makes,  is 
needed.  At  Fort  Snelling  1  have  seen  the  Sioux  and  Chippeways  in 
friendly  converse,  and  passing  their  pipes  in  the  most  amicable  manner 
when  if  they  had  met  away  from  the  post  each  would  have  been  striving 
for  the  other's  scalp. 

The  still  more  distant  Indians  that  have  their  abode  on  the  Missouri 
river,  Devil's  lake,  Pembina  and  Red  lake,  together  with  the  formidable 
body  of  hunters  that  congregate  about  and  depart  from  Lake  Travers  for  the 
plains,  must  be  dealt  with  by  expeditions  and  a  vigorous  policy.  At 
Pembina  I  examined  the  country  for  an  eligible  site  for  a  military  post. 
This,  without  locating  or  inducing  the  people  to  think  as  a  matter  of  course 
that  a  post  would  be  established ;  but  in  order  to  report  "  the  best  locality 
for  a  post  in  that  region."  I  don't  think  there  can  be  any  doubt  about  the 
particular  district  of  country  that  will  become  the  important  one  near  that 
boundary.  Pembina,  by  which  is  undcr^4ood  the  <listrict  nf  country  above 
the  mouth  of  Pembina  river,  must  ever  be  the  point  around  which  all 
business  and  enterprise  will  center.  East  of  it  the  line  is  not  approachable, 
nor  are  there  a'*'^-  ^^ints  that  will  particularly  invite  settlements.     From 


32 


Doc.  No.  51. 


Fort  Snelling  to  reach  any  point  on  this  line,  must  be  by  the  way  of 
Pembina.  Any  military  expeditions  to  or  from  the  line,  must  be  made  by 
this  route,  or  by  boats.  From  Lake  Superior  by  Vermillion  lake,  although 
there  are  heicrhts  of  land  markeil  by  the  maps,  I  am  told  the  country  could 
not  be  traveled  over;  and  all  communication  between  that  lake  and  the 
Red  river  country,  is  made  through  Rainy  lake,  Rainy  lake  river,  Lake  of 
the  Woods,  and  "into  Lake  Winnipeg. 

West  of  Red  river  for  about  30  miles  and  Pembina  mountain,  the  coun- 
try is  marshy,  and  there  are  no  advantages  in  route,  within  that  distance, 
to  reach  the  line,  over  the  one  by  or  to  Pembina.  To  strike  the  line  at 
Pembina  mountain,  would  lead  over  a  broken,  \.'oodland  country ;  and  in 
the  wet  season,  the  miry  nature  of  all  woodland  soil  in  that  region,  would 
present  as  much  of  an  obstacle  as  the  marshes  of  the  bottoms  or  prairies. 
The  Red  river  being  the  largest  river  in  the  country,  and  holding  out  the 
prospect  of  being  sometime  in  the  future  navigated  by  steamers,  has 
brought  and  will  bring  all  settlements  as  close  upon  it  as  possible.  The 
English  settlement  is  on  its  banks,  and  the  half  century  or  more  that  has 
elapsed  since  the  early  colonists  established  themselves  there,  has  not 
served  to  extend  the  increasing  population  back  from  this  river.  Pembina 
is  the  natural  gate  through  which  all  intercourse  between  the  U.  S.  and  the 
Hudson  Bay  territories  will  find  its  passage.  For  these  reasons,  I  deemed 
it  the  most  suitable  locality  for  a  post.  It  has  plenty  of  timber,  good 
water,  good  soil,  is  a  healthful  point,  and  is  the  most  accessible  one  in  the 
country.  There  is  no  stone.  If  subsistence  can  be  had,  the  occupations 
of  the  people  of  the  country  will  have  to  change  from  what  they  are  at 

present. 

As  to  the  necessity  of  a  post  there,  I  do  not  think  at  the  present  time  it 
is  called  for  on  any  score.  The  declamation  about  outrages  committed  on 
our  rights  by  the  Hudson  Bay  Company,  is  altogether  imaginative.  This 
company  has  a  chartered  monopoly  of  a"  profitable  trade,  extending  over  an 
immense  territory,  together  with  a  legislative  jurisdiction  to  a  certain 
extent.  That  the  factors  of  this  company  should  seek  to  promote  then- 
own  interest,  is  not  incompatible  with  the  rights  of  a  neighboring  nation, 
provided  they  do  not  infract  treaty  stipulations,  or  extend  their  laws  beyond 
their  own  territories.  The  regulation  that  some  difficulty  has  arisen  about, 
is  the  one  that  prohibits  the  dealing  in  furs  within  the  territories  of  the 
company,  by  any  person  not  authorized  by  said  company.  An  instance, 
and  the  only  one  1  heard  of,  about  which  some  noise  was  made,  and  which 
I  see  was  reported  to  Washington  from  this  post,  was  in  eiTect  as  follows  : 
Mr.  Kittson,  the  agent  of  the  American  Fur  Company  at  Pembina,  sent 
an  English  half-breed  back  in  the  mountains  amongst  the  hunters  and 
trappers,  with  a  supply  of  goods  for  traffic  with  the  Indiars  for  furs,  doubt- 
less intending  he  should  confine  himself  to  U.  S.  territory, 

.  This  half-breed  was  reported  to  the  company  as  having  been  found  on 
its  territory  trading  in  furs.  When  he  returned  to  the  English  settlement 
he  was  apprehended,  and  imprisoned  to  await  his  trial.  Mr.  Kittson  and 
the  half-breed  both  contended  that  he  had  not  traded  upon  the  company's 
territories.  The  half-breed  population  became  excited,  and  in  a  body 
presented  themselves  armed  and  demanded  the  release  of  this  prL>oner. 
The  authorities  refused  at  first,  but  afterwards  complied. 

The  whole  affiur,  according  to  the  accounts  given  me,  seemed  an  at- 
tempt on  the  part  of  the  company  to  maintain  their  authority,  without 


Doc.  No.  51. 


m 


)y  the  wiiy  of 
it  be  made  by 
ake,  altliough 
country  could 
lake  and  the 
liver,  Lake  of 

ain,  the  coun- 
that  distance, 
e  the  line  at 
iintry ;  and  in 
region,  would 
y\s  or  prairies, 
ildin'jj  out  the 
steamers,  has 
lossible.  The 
more  that  has 
here,  has  not 
er.  Pembina 
i  U.  S.  and  the 
ions,  I  deemed 
timber,  good 
ible  one  in  the 
le  occupations 
bat  they  are  at 

present  time  it 
1  committed  on 
inative.  This 
:;nding  over  an 
1   to  a  certain 

promote  their 
iboring  nation, 
iir  laws  beyond 
is  arisen  aloout, 
•ritories  of  the 

An  instance, 
ide,  and  which 
feet  as  follows : 
:  Pembina,  sent 
le  hunters  and 
for  furs,  doubt- 

;  been  found  on 
^lish  settlement 
Sir.  Kittson  and 
the  company's 
and  in  a  body 
tf  this  pri^icner. 

,  seemed  an  at- 
thority,  without 


wishing  to  extend  beyond  their  own  limits.  Mr.  Kittson,  when  visiting 
the  English  settlement,  was  arrested  as  an  accessory,  but  was  not  confined 
or  held  to  bail,  a  promise  being  exacted  from  him  to  attend  his  trial  when 
they  met. 

Another  case  which  I  believe  was  reported  to  Washingtoi>,  was:  That 
two  soldiers,  deserters  from  the  garrison  at  Fort  Garry,  had  concealed 
themselves  near  the  trading-house  on  our  side  of  the  line  ;  that  a  party  of 
soldiers  came  up  to  the  line,  a  few  of  them  passed  over  and  stealthily  kept 
along  the  bank  of  the  river,  and,  unobserved,  apprehended  the  deserters 
and  returned.  As  it  was  reported  to  me  by  people  living  in  U.  S.  terri- 
tory, they  did  not  march  an  armed  party  across  the  line  and  forcibly  arrest 
and  carry  off  citizens  of  the  U.  S. 

I  am  sorry  to  say  that  the  liberality  of  our  government  on  that  frontier, 
is  not  reciprocated  by  the  Hudson  Bay  Company.  The  subsistence  of  the 
half-breed  population  of  the  English  settlements,  the  Indians,  and  the 
employees  of  the  company,  is  obtained  from  the  buffalo  of  our  plains. 
Their  hunters  and  trappers  prosecute  their  pursuits  irrespective  of  boundary- 
lines,  and  the  traffic  in  ardent  spirits  with  the  Indians  is  permitted  on  our 
borders.     They  deny  us  all  privileges  on  their  territory. 

The  English  have  a  force  at  Fort  Garry,  about  60  miles  below  Pembina. 
It  is  composed  of  pensioners  from  the  English  army,  numbering  about  100 
men.  These  troops  are  in  ;'„e  pay  of  the  company,  and  they  are  there  for 
the  protection  and  enforcement  of"  this  monopoly.  When  difficulties  were 
apprehended  between  Great  Britain  and  the  United  States  about  the 
Oregon  boundary  line,  a  regiment  of  English  troops  was  sent  to  Fort 
Garry ;  but  it  has  been  withdrawn  within  two  or  three  years. 

The  Adjutant-General  in  his  instructions  to  me,  says  that  all  our  frontier 
posts  are  established  with  reference  to  our  Indian  relations.  With  that 
view  of  the  case,  a  post  at  Pembina  would  be  entirely  useless.  A  post 
there  would  be  to  overawe  the  Indians  and  half-breeds,  and  protect  our 
rights  on  the  frontier.  The  first  is  not  now  needed,  as  both  Indians  and 
half-breeds  are  well  disposed  towards  the  U.  S.,  and  with  no  discordant 
elements,  unless  freshly  sown  amongst  them,  to  make  difficulties  even 
probable.  The  second  object  does  not  demand  the  interposition  of  au- 
thority, as  I  find  no  instances  have  occurred  that  seemed  like  a  wish  to 
tresspass  upon  our  rights,  unless  the  habit  that  the  English  hunters  have  of 
crossing  the  line  after  buffalo  is  an  infraction  of  our  rights ;  and  in  that 
case,  I'clo  not  doubt  but  that  if  they  were  informed  that  they  would  be  met 
on  the  plains  and  their  horses  and  carts  taken  from  them,  they  would  cease 
to  trouble  us  on  that  score. 

That  it  would  be  an  advantage  to  the  country  to  establish  a  post  there, 
is,  in  my  opinion,  problematical.  I  know  that  the  general  impression  is 
that  a  military  post,  in  a  new  country,  gives  a  prosperous  activity  to  agri- 
cultural interests  in  its  vicinity,  by  the  public  disbursements  that  are  made. 
My  own  experience  has  shown  me,  that  pursuits  about  a  post  are  made  to 
conform  to  the  probable  wants  of  the  public  service,  and  interests  that  do 
not  contribute  directly  to  these,  languish.  Labor  and  articles  of  trade 
have  a  fictitious  value,  and  from  the  limited  wants  of  a  post  a  few  persons 
necessarily  become  monopolists,  and  the  nine  out  of  ten  become  factious 
discontents. 

The  half-breed  population  on  that  frontier  have  been  too  long  dependents 
on  the  Hudson  Bay  Companv,  which  accounts  for  their  present  poverty; 
DOC.  51*. —3 


34 


Doc.  No.  51. 


and  this  poverty  will  cling  to  them  as  long  as  they  have  a  probable  chance 
of  supporting  themselves  without  cultivating  the  soil.  They  ask  for 
♦roops  to  afford  them  a  market ;  and  I  venture  to  predict  that  if  a  post  is 
established  there,  and  this  m.-rket  that  they  ask  for  is  not  to  the  extent 
they  anticipate,  they  will  petition  for  the  removal  of  the  troops. 

As  the  letter  of  the  Secretary  of  the  Interior  to  the  President,  advising 
the  extinguishment  of  the  Indian  title  and  the  opening  of  that  country  for 
settlement,  was  sent  to  me  with  my  instructions,  it  may  not  be  inappro- 
priate in  me  to  say  something  on  that  subject.  If  that  country  were 
opened  for  settlement,  and  the  American  and  half-breed  could  go  there 
and  locate  themselves  upon  their  own  lands,  with  deeds  for  them  that 
woi'ld  place  their  tenure  above  the  whims  of  a  company  or  the  restrictions 
that  are  placed  upon  residents  in  an  Indian  country,  it  would  give  them  a 
position  that  they  have  never  known,  but  would  soon  appreciate.  Being 
then  citizens  of  an  organized  territory,  with  laws  in  operation,  administered 
by  legalized  agents,  the  country  would  soon  become  an  orderly  and  a 
respected  portion  of  the  United  States.  ,     •  i        f 

A  district  of  country  extending  thirty  or  forty  miles  on  both  sides  ot 
Red  river  and  the  same  distance  up  it,  will  throw  into  the  market  the  best 
or  the  most  desirable  portion  of  the  country,  and  be  sufficient  for  the  de- 
mands there,  for  a  period  beyond  which  it  is  hardly  foresight  to  attempt  to 
provide.  I  think  it  would  be  folly  to  expect  a  large  immigration  into  that 
country  from  the  U.  States.  It  will  settle  with  the  half-breed  population  and 
Canadians.  This  population  will  be  a  valuable  one,  for  they  are  a  good 
class  of  people,  accustomed  to  the  rigors  of  that  climate,  and  are  free  from 
the  morbid  restlessness  that  so  strongly  characterizes  the  adventurer  from 
1he  United  States. 

The  wild  Indians  that  meet  on  the  plains,  can  be  controlled  by  an  occa- 
sional expedition  there  ;  but  I  think  the  greatest  bar  to  quiet  on  those 
prairies  is  found  in  the  warlike  spirit  and  power  of  the  numerous  body  of 
Si;»ux  hunters  issuing  from  about  Lake  Travers,  and  who  attempt  to  control 
the  plains.  If  it  is  proposed  to  prevent  these  difficulties  by  means  of  posts, 
the  best  location  for  one  would  be  at  Lake  Travers.  Jt  would  act  directly 
upon  the  Sioux,  and,  by  the  exercise  of  a  proper  influence  over  them,  the 
plains  would  be  left  in  peace. 

If  a  post  is  established  at  Pembina,  it  would  be  unjust  to  troops,  and  an 
injury  to  our  country,  to  send  a  small  fore;-  there.  It  is  near  500  miles 
from  our  settlements  or  posts,  and  troops  would  in  case  of  trouble  have  lo 
depend  entirely  on  themselves,  without  the  hope  of  succor,  surrounded  by 
Indians  and  half-breeds.  Two  hundred  and  fifty  men  {five,  companies 
under  the  present  organization,)  would  be  the  least  force  that  ought  to 
make  its  appearance  tlicn: ;  then,  if  needed,  advantageous  results  might  be 
obtaineJ.  A  display  of  forces  on  a  smaller  scale,  would  only  exhibit  oiir 
weakness.  In  illustration  of  the  foregoing,  I  will  mention  an  instance  that 
occurred  at  ImtI  (Jarry,  the  English  post  below.  A  half-breed,  a  supposed 
offender  against  the  laws  of  the  Fur  Company,  was  arrested  for  trial.  'I'he 
half-breeds,  to  the  number  of  more  than  live  hundred,  united  and  demanded 
his  release.  Tin  Knglish  refused  to  release  him,  but  di<|  not  dare  to 
bring  him  to  trial.  The  half-breeds  then  consented  that  his  trial  might 
proi-ecd,  but  the  authorities,  iimling  they  could  not  punishjn  case  of  con- 
viction, in  the  face  of  such  a  large  armed  force,  abandoned  the  prosecution 
and  the  culprit  escaped. 


Doc.  No.  51. 


85 


•obable  chance 
They  ask  for 
at  if  a  post  is 
»t  to  the  extent 
Dps. 

ident,  advising 
lat  country  for 
at  be  inappro- 

country  were 
:ould  go  there 

for  them  that 
the  restrictions 
Id  give  them  a 
eciate.  Being 
n,  administered 
orderly  and  a 

)n  both  sides  of 
larket  the  best 
lent  for  the  de- 
it  to  attempt  to 
ration  into  that 
population  and 
they  are  a  good 
id  are  free  from 
idventurer  from 

led  by  an  occa- 
quiet  on  those 
merous  body  of 
tempt  to  control 
means  of  posts, 
luld  act  directly 
;  over  them,  the 

)  troops,  and  an 
near  500  miles 
trouble  have  lo 
•,  surrounded  by 
[jive  companies 
:e  that  ought  to 
results  might  be 
Dnly  ('\liil)it  our 
an  instance  that 
■ccd,  a  supposed 
1  for  trial.  'I'he 
d  and  demanded 
did  not  (hire  to 
;  his  trial  might 
\j^n  case  of  con- 
l  the  prosecution 


At  Fort  Garry  they  have  about  100  pensioners :  this  force  not  being 
able  to  contend  with  the  formidable  array  assembled  to  resist  them,  were 
constrained  to  be  passive  lookers-on.  Now  the  half-breeds  know  their 
power,  and  the  force  at  Fort  Garry  is  contemptible  in  their  sight,  and  a 
discredit  to  the  powder  and  authority  of  England. 

Lake  Winnipeg  is  about  100  miles  north  of  the  49th  parallel,  and  is  the 
basin  of  water  into  which  Red  river  debouches.  This  river,  from  what  1 
learn,  is  navigable  for  steamers,  from  Lake  Winnipeg  to  the  mouth  of  Red 
lake  river.  Above  this  point  I  have  no  reliable  information,  but  would 
judge  its  navigation  would  be  attended  with  too  many  difficulties  for  it 
ever  to  become  a  channel  of  trade.  Red  river,  a  few  miles  above  the  post 
we  put  up,  is  easily  fordable ;  and  from  this  point  down  to  Red  lake  river, 
its  tributaries  are  small,  and  I  would  suppose  did  not  swell  its  channel 
into  a  navigable  stream.     It  is  narrow,  and  very  crooked. 

The  outlet  of  Lake  Winnepcg  is  called-  Nelson's  river,  and  empties  into 
Hudson's  Bay  at  York  Factory,  a  depot  of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company. 
This  river  is  full  of  rapids  and  cannot  be  navigated  by  row  boats — several 
portages  have  to  be  made. 

I  will  add,  in  concluding  my  report,  and  without  expecting  any  import- 
ance will  be  attached  to  it,  that  I  think  the  system  of  protecting  our  fron- 
tier by  small  detached  posts,  is  a  defective  one.  As  an  instance,  I  will 
take  this  frontier  where  there  are  four  companies  of  infantry  and  one  of 
dragoon,  making,  when  the  companii;S  are  full,  about  250  men.  If  this 
force  were  at  one  post,  there  could  be  sent  into  this  field,  at  any  time,  at 
least  two  hundred  men.  This  force  would  be  respectable  and  influential 
under  all  circumstances — expeditions  could  be  made  to  the  "  Plains,"  and 
amongst  the  most  numerous  tribes  of  Indians.  It  would  be  sufficient  when 
excitement  arises  among  Indians  at  payments  &c.,  to  prevent  disturbances. 
Place  this  force  strategetically  and  the  frontier  will  have  a  better  guard 
than  1000  men  can  give,  scattered  in  detachments  of  one  or  two  com- 
panies. A  post  of  one  company,  which  will  not  generally  have  an  aver- 
age strength  of  more  than  forty  men  ;  after  deducting  from  this  number 
the  sick,  disabled,  and  those  necessary  to  be  left  at  a  post  for  the  security 
of  public  property,  &c.,  and  twenty-five  men  will  be  the  most  that  can  be 
taken  into  the  field.  This  force  is  insufficient  for  any  good.  Its  presence 
may  sometimes  prevent  difficulties,  but  if  so,  it  would  be  solely  from  the 
disinclination  of  the  Indians  to  embroil  themselves  with  the  United  States, 
and  not  from  any  fears  or  apprehensions  about  the  result.  Seeing  these 
small  forces  alone  (their  minds  do  not  carry  them  beyond)  gives  them  dis- 
paraging impressions  of  the  ])ower  of  the  ll^niled  States.  Indians  haxe  no 
fixed  abode  and  the  location  of  troops  about  haunts  they  may  hav<  ,  only 
causes  them  to  take  up  others,  and  the  litllr  posts  that  are  established  are 
useless.  Protection  cannot  ne  given  by  placing  a  sentinel  at  each  man's 
door.  Points  must  be  selected,  giving  the  l)est  command  of  the  district  of 
country  an<l  occupied  in  force,  that  can  meet  any  prol)al)le  emergency. 

Fort  Snelling  is  a  point  admirably  calculated  for  the  concentration  of  a 
force.  It  is  at  the  head  of  navigation  on  the  Mississipj)i,  where  it  is  easy 
of  access  and  easily  supplied,  witli  an  Indian  country  almost  surrounding 
il^a  country  penetrable  in  almcst  every  direction,  with  no  point  where 
troops  would  be  suddenly  wanted  that  could  not  be  reached  in  four  or  five 
days,     it  is  convenient  for  fitting  out  expeditions  for  distant  points.     A 


T  -^tWWIWWPilwwUBWPW 


36 


Doc.  No.  51. 


respectable  force  seen  on  the  prairies  amongst  our  wild  Indians  every  sum- 
mer would  be  of  incalculable  advantage.  . 

I    Te  pleasure  in  acknowledging  the  patient,  promp,  energetic  and 
soldierW  Suet  of  Company  "  D,"  1st  dragoons  ;  exposed   o  every  pnva- 

!       ^nM  hiiin   they  continued  the  march  and  returned,  with  the  un- 
tion  and  h^^d^^ip,   hey  com^^^^  ^  ^  ^^^  j^^^^^ 

^ntdei^nCarte  -  '^^^^^  '^^1  expedition,  had  laborious  difficult  and 
annovi^nrdu?ies  to  perfonn-he  had  also  in  charge  a  mountain  howitzer^ 
The  Sner  in  which  these  duties  were  pe.;formed  was  of  mestimable 
JdvanTarto  the  expedition  and  highly  creditable  to  himself;  2d  heu  .  T 
F  Cast'or  1st  dragoons,  after  assuming  command  of  Company  "D  2d 
dr'agoons,  'at  Pembina,  united  his  efforts  with  the  company,  and  most  faith- 
i\x\\y  performed  his  duties.  ^  #  »  # 

T  V.ave  *in  the  foregoing  pages,  attempted  to  lay  before  you  the  informa- 
tion I  was  sent  to  obfain°  ^I  hav'e  been 'prolix  and  I  fear  not  satisfactory, 
but  if  rcon'ls  the  information  wanted,  however  disconnected  or  pkunly 

^1^rSJ;rlLS;:ndt:rStthing  t:,  relVrto    butmy  own 
no  es      I  did  not  commence  this  report  until  alter  my  return   rom  Iowa. 
°     i  am  sir,  very  respectfully,  your  obedient^humWe^se^^ 

Brevrt  Major,  Commanding  Expedition  to  Red  River. 

To  General  R.  Jones, 

Adjxitant-Gcncral  V.  S. .^., 
Washington  City   D.  C. 

Pembina,  Territory  of  Minnesota, 

Jlugust  201/h  1849. 

My  Dear  Sir  •  I  have  received  in  due  course  your  letter  of  the  12th 
insWnt  whfch  reque  s  me  to  be  so  kind  as  to  give  you  in  writing  such 
r:^^;t::>l;:  a;::?y  long  sc^oum  in  tl-counuymay^have  enabkd  me  o 
m-ike  as  well  of  the  Indian  tribes  inhabiting  it  as  ol  the  ^^*»'^V  °/ 
Treeds  who  side  within  its  borders.  To  do  this  properly  ^vould  c  me 
an  X  ended  .letail,  which  the  short  time  you  intend  remaining  h,- 
well  as  my  own  duties  leave  small  space  tor  performance  J^^^^^^^^^^^^ 
thP  desire  I  have  to  .^ratify  you,  as  well  as  the  happiness  it  will  .illoul  me 

I    '     in  armanner,  he  it  never  so  little,  either  by  my  writings  or  othei 
'work;   hasienM:^  time  lor  the  melioration  of  the  -motion  of  a  people 
too  long  miserable,  do  not  permit  me  to  reiuse  e"^;^!^^^^^^        ^^^'^^ 
accordingly  be  couched  in  perspicuous  and  concise   •'"K";''R^-     ,  p,„,|,ina 

'n'bo  Mi,,  ":•::,     :^      ,  '  „    1«   ;i»;n"  whe,o  feed  i,„„„„e.U,le  he,* 

„r  il,i,  „.ri„„  oMain  (lic^ir  sul.sistcm-.',  ro.ilau.  vMlliiii  llieir  i  ""!»•'  '™" 
iry '^.oullour  lmt.,lr.-,l  .niles  lr„m  .u.rlh  lo  south,  ana  more  th.in  f..e  hun- 
dred utiles  from  east  lo  wesl.  ,  ■      ,  c  ,i.;„  r.nun- 
Although  the  Chippewas  have  hern  for  ages  m  possession  o    this  coun 
try,  tradition  teaches  us  that  it  prcMously  belonged  to  the  .^loux. 


IS  every  sum- 
energetic  and 
J  every  priva- 
,  with  the  un- 
[nfantry,  corn- 
difficult,  and 
tain  howitzer, 
of  inestimable 
i;  2d  lieut.  T. 
paiiy  "  D,"  2d 
md  most  faith- 


lu  the  informa- 
)t  satisfactorvj 
3ted  or  plainly 

>,  but  my  own 
1  from  Iowa, 
nt, 

0  Red  River. 


Doc.  No.  51. 


37 


[NESOTA, 

t  20lh,  1849. 
tter  of  the  12tlj 
in  writing  such 
enabled  me  to 
white  or  half- 
y  would  require 
naining  here,  as 
Nevertheless, 
t  will  afford  me, 
vritings  or  other 
on  of  a  people, 
My  reply  will 

called  Pcmbma, 
travetsed  by  the 
ninth  parallel  of 
ic  height  uf  land 
numerable  herds 
i  and  half-breeds 
ir  limits  a  coun- 
re  than  five  bun- 
ion of  this  coun- 
,he  Sioux.     The 


Chippew-as  then  inhabited  the  region  lying  between  ne  Sault  of  St.  Mary's, 
from  which  that  tribe  takes  its  name  (Sateaux)  and  Lake  Winnepeg ;  the 
Crees,  their  allies,  occupying  that  from  Lake  VVinnepeg  and  other  lakes  as 
far  as  the  Kis-is-kad-ji-wan  (and  not  Laskid  jewan)  river  and  towards  the 
Assiniboin  river,  which,  running  from  west  to  east,  debouches  into  the 
Red  river  about  49°  55,  which  is  also  designated  by  the  Chippewas  as 
West  Red  river,  also  the  great  Red  river ;  the  banks  of  which  were  the 
field  of  battle  of  those  warlike  ^tribes,  who  were  alike  formidable  for  their 
numbers.  The  many  and  bloody  combats  which  occurred  every  yaar  on 
these  prairies  have  apparently  caused  the  designation  of  Red  to  be  given 
to  this  river,  for  neither  in  its  course  nor  at  its  source  is  the  water  tinged 
with  that  color.  These  plains  remained  the  scene  of  contention  ;  never- 
theless oftener  the  residence  of  the  Sioux  than  of  the  other  tribes,  until  that 
nation  was  divided  into  two  bodies,  occasioned  by  dissensions  originating 
in  jealousy  of  the  women  which  proved  anfficiently  powerful  to  produce  a 
bloody  conflict  ending  in  their  becoming  irreconcilable  enemies  even  to 
this  day.  One  of  these  divisions  retained  the  country  and  the  name  of 
Pmvn,  Sioux,  while  the  less  powerful  and  flying  party  took  refuge  in  the 
rocky  precipices  of  the  Lake  of  the  Woods  and  assumed  the  name  of  ./Issi- 
nipawn,  or  Sioux  of  the  Rocks,  These  last  then  allied  themselves  per- 
manently with  the  Crees  and  Chippewas,  and  by  reason  of  their  superior 
numbers  when  combined,  they  forced  the  Sioux  to  fly  nearly  to  the 
Cheyesme  river,  which  is  now  regarded  as  the  line  between  these  tribes. 

Although  the  Crees  and  Chijipewas  were  then  extremely  numerous,  they 
are  far  from  being  sufficiently  so  now  to  spread  over  the  vast  region  they 
temporarily  occupy.  The  small-pox,  not  very  long  since,  found  its  way 
among  them,  and  not  only  decimated,  but  in  many  of  their  camps,  did  not 
even  leave  one  in  ten  alive.  Here  on  the  banks  of  the  Pembina  there  is 
not  a  spot  near  the  river  where  the  plough-share  does  not  throw  out  of  the 
furrow  quantities  of  human  bones,  remains  of  the  destructive  scourge. 

Generally  speaking,  each  post  of  trade  has  from  two  to  three  hundred 
hunters  which  would  form  a  jiopuhilion — estimating  three  as  the  proportion 
to  one  hunter — of  nine  hundred  souls  for  each  three  hundred  hunters.  This 
granted,  taking  the  posts  of  Red  lake,  of  Reed  lake,  of  Pembina,  and  at 
the  source  of  Pembiim  river  or  Turtle  mountain,  at  the  minimum  rate  sup- 
posed, say  two  hundred  hunters  each  at  the  four  places  of  trade,  and  we 
would  have  a  total  of  about  two  thousand  four  hundred  souls  ;  a  number 
which  I  believe  to  be  less  than  the  truth. 

The  Crees  and  Assiniboins  regard  themselves  as  equally  masters  of  these 
lands  with  the  Chippewas,  having  arq\iired  them  jointly  with  the  latter,  at 
the  expense  of  their  blood.  Nevertheless,  the  Mouse  river,  which,  in  its 
course,  approaches  within  thirty  miles  of  the  Missouri,  and  empties  itself 
into  the  Assiniboin  river,  about  ninety  miles  from  its  mouth,  would  ap- 
pear to  he  the  tru(!  line,  which  is  never  passed  by  the  hunters  oi  the  tribe, 
except  perhaps  towards  its  source  where  it  approaches  Moose  mountain, 
which  is  a  point  where  they  are  accustomed  to  concentrate,  and  for  the 
most  part  reside.  The  Crees  and  Assiniboins  form  sometimes  a  camp  of 
four  or  five,  hundred  lodges,  each  lodge  containing  two  or  three  families. 
All  thisigK  i:\\c{",\  \v,i''.!-o.',]<\:\i'rM\(^r)^  \\--,i\  placir^g  \h'-  v,'\n\hi'T  of  sfii-h  at  ion 
to  each  lodge,  I  estimate  the  sum  total  of  these  bamls  at  about  five  thou- 
sand. 

The  Chippewas,  like  all  barbarous  tribes,  are  much  demoralized,  and, 


38 


Doc.  No.  51. 


above  all  others,  superstitious  to  excess.  All  that  is  marvellous  is  believed 
Sout  examination,  however  ridiculous  it  may  be.  With  them  dreams 
Tre  revelaUon  ,  and  the  bird,  man,  or  monster  who  is  the  hero,  or  the  sub- 
let of  thesis  regarded  a^  a  tutelary  deity ;  and  the  same  is  the  case 
ihould  t  n^ove  a  stone,  a  tree,  or  a  serpent.  They  make  an  image  of  wood 
SothesSbsIance,  which  is  carefully  preserved,  and  which  they  invoke  in 
?Lrmoments  of  sickness,  or  when  pressed  by  the  pangs  of  hunger.  1  hey 
make  occasional  sacrifices,  principally  of  dogs.  ipolous- 

Polvsamv,  although  common  among  them,  is  often  the  cause  ot  jealous 
ies   andTvln  of  suicides.     Strong  liquors  have  for  them  an  irre^stible 
attJacUon!  of  which  fact  the  English  traders,  whose  desire  for  gain  knows 
io ToS,  take  every  advantagl  thus  -^ing  the  worsM-ssion  of  these 
DOor  people  to  subserve  their  own  pecmiary  interest.     Ihe  tralft.  in  in 
\oxlITnl  drinks  is  the  abhorrence  of  those  missionaries  who  are  conse- 
crated  to^he  object  of  Christianizing  these  heathens.     The  Chippewas 
Semselves  notw  thstanding  their  passion  for  rum,  with  no  desire  to  depre- 
ciatT(whlch  would  little  be  suspected),  look  upon  it  as  an  infernal  means, 
on  he  part  of  English  traders,  to  make  use  of  rum  for  the  purpose  of  de- 
spoiling the  poor  Indians  of  all  they  possess,  and  for  such  Pnces  as  they 
choo  e^to  give.     It  is  an  insult  to  humanity  and  to  justice,  which  it  should 
be  the  glofy  of  governments  to  repress.     I  never  ^vould  end  was  I  to  com- 
mit  to  faper  all  the  abominations  caused  by  this  traffic  on  our  border.  We 
have  m^e  application  to  the  English  government,  ^"^^g  ^^^her  tmngs  for 
the  abolition  of  this  commerce  in  liquor  ;  but  it  seems  that  with  that  court 
nte?est  preponderates  over  the  rights  of  humanity,  for  a  deaf  ear  has  been 
turned  to  our  demands.     The  committee  of  the  Hudson  Bay  Company  in 
England  has  had  the  impudence  to  reply  to  a  petition  ot  the  Bishops  of 
Canada,  asking  for  the  abolition  of  this  branch  of  their  trade  w   h  the  In- 
dians, "  that  they  had  already  ceased  it  in  all  the  countries  under  their  juri«- 
d  ction  '"     Who  could  have  supposed  such  audacious  mendacity  when  we 
know  that  one-fifth  in  value  of  all  their  importations  last  year  consisted  of 

'"^The  Chippewas  who  reside  upon  the  line,  or  thereabouts,  are  generally 
miserably  poor,  sluggards,  having  no  aptitude  but  for  the  chase.  Ihey 
neglect  all  sorts  of  ?and  cilture.  They  live  upon  fish  in  summer,  and  rab- 
bits in  winter.  The  moose,  the  elk,  the  reindeer,  and  the  bear  have  be- 
come very  rare,  and  none  but  the  most  skilful  hunters  can  kil  enough 
of  these  animals  to  support  themselves  during  the  winter.  1  he  Red  lake 
Chippewas  are  the  only  ones  who  appreciate  the  importance  of  cultivation 
of  the  soil,  and  among  them  only  the  women  labor  in  raising  corn  and 
potatoes.  This  tribe  or  band  appears,  however,  more  industriously  dis- 
posed than  the  others,  and  more  provident  of  the  necessaries  ol  lile  ;  anU 
thev  take  advantage  also  of  the  abundance  of  maple  in  their  country  to 

Tt^Z:li:^^r^  are  much  addicted  to  play,  and  when  assem- 
bled together  in  cam)),  they  pass  whr.le  days  and  nights  in  playing,  sing- 
ing, and  beating  the  drum;  for  all  these  go  together,  and  are  a^-^-"«nP;\"'^;^ 
b/grimaces,  all  of  which  wouhl  appear  to  a  spect^Uor  unacqua.ntecUith 
their  customs,  as  indications  oi  iren/y.  Fnese  indr.m-,  »ut  m,!..^  ••;  •  •"- 
sufficienlly  industrious  to  fabricate  objects  of  luxury,  seek  ev'-u  in  tht 
dust  for  earth  of  .livers  colors  wherewilh  to  paint  their  faces  and  bo  les  m 
different  ways,  more  or  less  fantastically,  while  they  braid  or  twist  their 


Doc.  No.  51. 


39 


IS  is  believed 
them  dreams 
»,  or  the  sub- 
I  is  the  case 
(lage  of  wood 
ey  invoke  in 
inger. 


They 


se  of  jealous- 
n  irresistible 
r  gain  knows 
ssion  of  these 
traffic  in  in- 

0  are  conse- 
e  Chippewas 
sire  to  depre- 
ifernal  means, 
urpose  of  de- 
)rices  as  they 
hich  it  should 
was  I  to  cora- 
ir  border.  We 
her  things,  for 
vith  that  court 
f  ear  has  been 
y  Company  in 
the  Bishops  of 
ie  with  the  In- 
der  their  juris- 
acity  when  we 
ar  consisted  of 

,  are  generally 
chase.     They 
nmer,  and  rab- 
bear  have  be- 
in  kill  enough 
The  Red  lake 
e  of  cultivation 
lising  corn  and 
ilustriously  dis- 
cs of  life  ;  and 
heir  country  to 

id  when  assem- 

1  playing,  sing- 
re  accompanied 
acquainted  with 

ita  t  '"f^   ■■"  " " 

fk  ev<Mi  in  the 
js  and  bodies  in 
id  or  twist  their 


hair  according  to  their  particular  tastes,  intertwined  with  buttons,  feathers, 
and  other  gew-gaws,  so  that  they  are  frequently  so  completely  disfigured, 
that  one  must  be  gifted  with  more  than  usual  gravity,  not  to  give  vent  to 
roars  of  laughter  upon  ur.ing  visited  by  one  of  these  exquisites. 

The  Western  Chippewas  live  principally,  as  well  as  the  Crees  and  As- 
siniboins,  upon  the  flesh  of  the  bison,  which  they  prepare  in  such  a  man- 
ner as  to  preserve  it  a  long  time,  as  you  may  see  by  a  report  of  a  hunting 
excursion,  which  I  have  had  the  honor  to  present  you.  Idle  and  improvi- 
dent as  they  are,  notwithstanding  the  abundance  of  bison,  they  are  often  a 
heavy  charge  upon  the  half-breeds,  to  whom  they  have  recourse  in  seasons 
of  distress. 

Although  endowed  with  much  shrewdness  they  are  very  difficult  to  be 
taught,  generally  taxing  the  patience  of  their  instructors  by  the  little  mem- 
ory and  intelligence  they  display.  They  have  school-books  and  prayers 
printed  in  their  language,  as  well  as  a  grammar.  A  dictionary  complete, 
which  forms  in  manuscript  a  quarto  volume,  has  not  been  printed.  I  am 
only  waiting  to  procuie  the  means  for  effecting  this  object,  and  the  work 
would  be  extremely  useful.  I  would  be  really  happy  if  some  influential 
personage  would  procure  this  favor  to  be  done  me  by  Congress. 

The  Chippewas  have  a  mode  of  writing  peculiar  to  themselves.  This  is 
by  means  of  hieroglyphics,  to  which  an  arbitrary  idea  is  attached,  and  is 
found  on  the  handles  of  their  pipes,  on  their  tombs,  and  on  the  bark  where- 
on they  write  their  war  songs,  or  their  songs  of  love  or  ridicule;  also  their 
invocations  to  the  diff'erent  deities  adored  by  them. 

The  Chippewas,  albeit  of  careless  and  beggarly  habits  and  of  a  charac- 
ter marked  by  much  sangfroid,  are  ordinarily  civil  and  well  inclined  to- 
wards the  people  of  civilized  nations,  in  whom  they  admire  the  ingenuity 
displayed  m  the  manufacture  of  those  articles  of  exchange,  "hich  they 
receive  in  the  course  of  trade.  Nevertheless  this  mildness  of  uianner  so 
manifest  in  their  general  demeanor,  is  changed  to  a  worse  than  canine 
rage,  when  they  engage  in  war.  Revenge  and  superstition  render  them 
warlike,  and  when  conquerors,  wo  to  the  wretch  who  falls  into  their  hands. 
This  has  been  illustrated  by  an  occurrence  which  took  place  not  fifteen 
days  since.  The  Chippewas  having  killed  three  or  four  Sioux  in  battle, 
besides  the  scalps,  cut  from  the  thighs  of  some  of  their  victims  strips  of 
flesh,  which  they  cured  in  the  same  way  with  the  meat  of  the  bison,  for  the 
purpose  of  being  preserved  for  their  war  feasts. 

A  peace  was  happily  concluded  between  the  western  Chip]>ewas  and 
Mandans  which  has  been  faithfully  observed  for  six  years.  We  might 
possibly  persuade  the  former  to  make  a  treaty  of  pacification  also  with  the 
Sioux,  if  we  could  persuade  ourselves  of  the  sincerity  of  the  latter.  Several 
essays  have  been  made  to  eflect  this  desirable  object,  but  the  Chippewas 
assert  that  the  Sioux  are  always  the  first  to  break  their  engagements. 
This  fact,  taken  into  consideration  with  the  knowledge  possessed  by  the 
Chippewas,  that  the  Sioux  freciuently  kill  white  men  as  well  as  themselves, 
causes  me  to  believe  that  any  steps  that  we  can  take  to  obtain  a  peace 
between  these  hostile  tribes,  would  be  but  labor  lost.  We  have  but  to 
desire  that  the  government  of  the  United  States,  whose  wisdom  is  admired 
by  ill!  tlie  Indian  tribes  I  have  visited,  even  to  the  Upper  Missouri,  will 
declare  that  it  intends  to  put  a  stop  to  hostilities,  and  will  exact  peace 
under  the  pain  of  imprisonment  or  such  other  punishment  as  may  be 
judged  proper  to  induce  them  to  keep  it. 


40 


Doc.  No.  51. 


The  hunt  for  fur-bearing  and  other  animals  of  the  woods  becoming  con- 
siderably less  each  year,  it  is  much  to  be  desired  that  these  poor  people 
should  bVfmbuedwith  'a  taste  for  cultivation  of  the  soil  A  ready  they 
wrto  feel  sensible  of  the  necessity  of  this  step,  if  not  for  themselves 
atkast  for  their  descendants,  and  it  is  a  blessing  to  them,  vvhich  many  of 
them  appreciate,  that  the  government  is  disposed  to  pay  them  hberaly 
for  thei  lands,  the  prices  of  which  when  received  wi  1  serve  luc  better 
disposed  portion  of  them,  to  establish  themselves  like  the  whites,  and  live 
a  civilized  life  which  they  all  foresee  must  be  embraced  sooner  or  later  in 
snite  of  their  indolence.  ,    .  ,  .•     i    i 

^The  Chippewas  are  commonly  attached  to  their  traders,  particularly 
when  they  remark  in  them  that  uprightness  and  kindness  to  '^e  Indians 
wWch  cause  them  to  be  called /a^/ter  by  the  latter.  If  "  -  c^outrary, 
deceit  and  bad  faith  appear  in  their  dealings,  they  are  !.>  sovereign 

contempt  by  the  Indians,  which  is  manifested  on  a  occ.  •  is  with  that 
frankTJss  which  is  their  characteristic.  A  chief  will  say  to  a  Bourgeois 
(head  trader  at  a  postorina  district)  "  You  lack  for  nothing,  and  yet  you  have 
a  Innp-inoT  for  my  trash  (or  rags)."  ,       ,  ,         , 

I  aS  happy  to  be  able  to  say  that  those  American  traders  I  have  known 
show  far  Ee  fair  dealing  and  honesty  in  their  trade  than  the  British 
traders  This  accounts  for  the  fact,  without  doubt,  that  the  hones  trader 
that  we  have  at  Pembina  (Mr.  Norman  Kittson  succeeds  so  well  in  his 
buless,  notwithstanding  the  opposition  of  the  Hudson  Bay  Company, 
and  in  spite  of  the  rum  which  they  make  use  of  in  profusion. 

The  half-breeds  are  much  more  numerous  than  the  Indians  in  this  De- 
partment.    There  are  mixed  bloods  of  different  tribes  which  spread  them- 
selves from  the  stony  mountains  of  the  Atlantic  Ocean.   We  have  countea 
he  descendants  of  thirteen  different  bands,  but  the  very  great  majority  are 
of  Cree  or  Chippewa  extraction  and  of  this  majority  the  Chippewas  have 

^^Th^half-Ced's  are  mild,  generous,  polished  in  their  manners,  and  ready 
to  do  a  kindness  ;  of  great  uprightness,  not  over  anx.ms  «f  ^/^coming  rich, 
contenting  themselvesNvith  the  necessaries  of  1'^^' P.^  ^^^ '^^^^   ^l    vPt  T 
at  all  times  possessed.     The  greater  number  are  no  friends  to  labor ,  jet  1 
believe  this  vice  to  proceed  more  from  a  want  of  encouragemen  ,  and  the 
small  prices  they  receive  for  their  products,  than  from  laziness  ;  this  opin- 
ion is  grounded  upon  the  fact,  that  they  are  insensd,le  to  fatigue  and  ex- 
posure, which  they  endure  with  lightness  of  henrt  when  called  upon  to  do 
so  in  the  course  of  their  diverse  occupations.     They  have  much  openness 
of  spirit,  and  their  children  manifest  good  capacity  when  taught;  still   ve 
could  wish  them  to  possess  a  little  more  perseverance      1  hey  are  generally 
gay  and  fond  of  enjoyment ;  they  affect  music,  there  being  but  a  lew,  com- 
laratively  speaking,  who  do  not  play  on  the  violin.     '1  hey  are  of  a  fine 
Z-sical  conformaUon,   robust  and   full  of  health  and  of  a  swarthy  hue 
We  see  but  sli<^ht  dissensions  in  their  families,  which  are  ior  the  mos^t  part 
numerous.   The  men  commonly  marry  at  the  age  of  seventeen  or  eighteen, 
an?  as  a  general  thing  are  of  good  morals.    The  halt-breeds  number  over 
five  thousand  souls.     They  first  established  themstdves  at  Pembina    near- 
the  mouth  of  the  river  ofthat  name,  about   iHlh,  when  they  had  wuij 
Ihem  a  resident  Cana.lian  priest.     They  had  also  erected  a  <^h"reh   am 
were  engaged  in  the  cultivation  of  the  soil  with  great  success  when  Ma  or 
Lon.r  visited  the  country  }  and  having  ascertained  the  latitude,  declared  it 


Doc.  No.  51. 


41 


:oming  con- 
poor  people 
1  ready  they 
themselves, 
ch  many  of 
;ra  liberally 
J  the  better 
;es,  and  live 
•  or  later  in 

particularly 
^^e  Indians 
'-"  ;;outrarv, 
sovereign 
AS  with  that 
a  Bourgeois 
j^et  you  have 

have  known 
the  British 
lonest  trader 
3  well  in  his 
y  Company, 

s  in  this  De- 
ipread  them- 
lave  counted 
majority  are 
ppewas  have 

rs,  and  ready 
icoming  rich, 
they  arc  not 
labor;  yet  I 
nent,  and  the 
s  ;  this  opin- 
iguc  and  ex- 
d  upon  to  do 
uch  openness 
ighl;  still  we 
are  generally 
it  a  few,  com- 
are  of  a  fine 
swarthy  hue. 
the  most  part 
n  or  eighteen, 
i  number  over 
^embina,  near 
hey  had  with 
1   rhurrh,  and 
s  when  Maior 
de,  declared  it 


to  be  south  of  49*^ ;  St.  Louis  being  then  the  nearest  American  settlement 
of  any  size,  and  the  distance  to  that  city  being  very  great,  it  was  out  of  the 
question  for  the  residents  of  Pembina  to  hold  intercourse  with  it,  except  by 
incurring  great  expense  as  wel.'  as  danger.  The  Hudson  Bay  Company 
profited  by  the  inability  of  the  colonists  to  communicate  with  the  States, 
to  give  public  notice  that  all  those  inhabitants  Avho  were  established  on  the 
American  side  of  the  line  should  descend  the  Red  river  and  make  a  settle- 
ment about  the  mouth  of  the  Assiniboin  river,  under  the  penalty  in  case 
of  failure  so  to  do,  of  beigg  refused  all  supplies  from  their  store.  At  that 
time  even  more  than  at  present,  powder,  balls,  and  net  thread  for  fishing, 
were  articles  indispensably  necessary  to  their  subsistence.  In  short  they 
were  obliged  to  submit. 

Since  that  period,  the  half-breeds  have  always  spoken  of  Pembina  as  a 
spot  for  which  they  have  a  strong  predelicticn,  and  regretted  the  necessity 
which  forced  them  to  leave  it.  Gradually  as  the  Mississippi  settlements 
have  appioached  towards  us,  until*  a  line  of  communication  has  been 
opened  with  them  within  the  last  three  or  four  years,  and  the  half-breeds 
have  felt  the  possibility  of  procuring  the  necessaries  of  life  from  that  quar- 
ter as  well  as  from  the  British  side  ;  from  that  time  many  of  them  have 
returned  to  the  place  of  their  birth,  happy,  at  length,  to  be  able  to  with- 
draw themselves  from  a  state  of  vassalage  in  which  they  had  been  held  as 
long  as  possible,  by  a  company  of  monopolists  held  together  by  a  sort  of 
charter  which  invests  them  with  power  beyond  control,  and  of  which  in 
our  day,  there  exists  no  other  example.  This  was  the  result  of  a  conces- 
sion made  by  a  king  alone  without  the  assent  of  parliament,  and  conse- 
quently null  according  to  the  English  constitution  ;  nevertheless  is  this 
doubtful  power  vigorously  enforced  over  a  people  ignorant,  removed  to  the 
world's  end,  and  who  have  consequently  no  means  of  making  their  com- 
plaints heard  by  the  sovereign. 

But  behold  how  providential  interference  has  prepared  the  road ;  for 
while,  on  the  one  hand,  without  foreseeing  what  was  to  come  to  pass,  it  was 
decided  at  Montreal  to  send  a  missionary  among  the  Pembina  half-breeds; 
on  the  other  hand,  the  Congress  of  the  United  States  have  organized  the 
Territory  of  Minnesota,  and  have  sent  troops  to  examine  and,  if  need  be, 
to  protect  the  settlement  at  the  same  point.  At  this  news,  the  half-breeds 
leaped  with  joy,  and  more  than  a  thousand  have  caused  their  names  to  be 
inscribed  on  the  list  of  the  settlers  at  Pembina  ;  others,  not  believing  the 
report,  wish  to  see  with  their  eyes  that  measures  have  been  adopted,  which 
the  partisans  of  the  Hudson  Bay  Company  asserted  were  impossible,  be- 
cause of  the  poverty  of  the  American  government.  Before  three  years 
shall  have  elapsed,  if  the  government  of  the  United  States  in  its  liberality, 
and  compassionating  the  situation  of  a  people  originally  its  citizens  and 
for  so  long  a  time  miserable,  will  extend  its  protecting  hand  to  us,  more 
than  four  thousand  souls  will  soon  embrace  and  enjoy  the  sweets  of  liberty, 
to  them  hitherto  unknown. 

The  half-breeds  are  rather  hunt  rs  than  agriculturalists,  and  this  is  owing 
to  their  being  unable  to  sell  the  produce  of  their  farms,  while  on  the  other 
hand,  they  find  it  easy  to  sell  the  articles  obtained  in  their  hunts;  still  a 
large  number  apply  themselves  to  both  farming  and  hunting  with  1X1^^.^^ 
success. 

Besides  the  reason  already  given  why  the  half-breeds  wish  to  reunite 
themselves  to  the  United  States,  which  is  the  arbitrary  conduct  of  the  Hud- 


42 


Doc.  No.  51. 


son  Bay  Company  in  its  government,  there  are  others  why  a  return  to  Pem- 
bina is  much  desired,  to  wit :  .  ,  ^  re.  ^^  t  r  „i,„ 
First.  The  British  settlement  is  situated  about  fifty  miles  from  Lake 
•Winnepeff.  There  they  begin  to  plant  during  the  latter  part  of  April  or 
beginning  of  May  ;  all  the  seed  springs  out  of  the  ground  before  the  end  ot 
the  latter  month,  and  while  the  surface  of  the  lake  is  stil  covered  with  ice. 
If  it  so  happens  that  the  wind  blows  from  the  north  for  three  or  four  days, 
the  atmosphere  becomes  considerably  colder,  and  if  it  becomes  calm  during 
the  night  all  the  tender  plants  are  destroyed  by  frost ;  while  at  the  distance 
of  75  or  80  miles  farther  south,  at  Pembina,  the  cold  is  not  lelt  so  severely, 
nor  does  the  frost  ever  injure  the  early  plants.  Experience  has  shown  that 
European  plants  which  could  not  be  acclimated  in  the  British  colony,  nour- 
ish well  at  Pembina.  .  ... 

Second.  The  half-breed  hunters,  as  well  from  necessity  as  from  inclma- 
tion,  do  not  feel  that  they  have  a  right  to  pursue  this  avocation  on  Ameri- 
can soil,  in  order  to  carry  the  products  of  their  chase  to  the  British  side, 
which  they  have  been  obliged  to  do  heretofore.  Apart  from  this  consider- 
ation,  Pembina  may  be  looked  upon  as  the  gate  to  the  prairies  where  the 
hunts  are  made,  and  where  the  bison  abounds.  The  fishery  is  also  very 
productive  ;  and  although  these  natural  advantages  cannot  be  regarded  as 
always  to  be  depended  on,  still  they  are  worthy  of  being  taken  into  the 
account  in  an  infant  settlement;  for  should  there  occur  a  season  ot  scarcity 
we  should  be  glad  to  have  recourse  to  these  means  of  subsistence.   _ 

Third.  There  are  salt  springs  to  be  found  in  abundance  in  the  neighbor- 
hood, which  might  be  rendered  profitable,  not  only  for  the  wants  of  the 
colony,  but  of  trade  with  distant  parts,  so  soon  as  the  means  of  transport- 
ation are  facilitated.  ,  i  r  u  -i  i 
Fourth.  The  probability  of  a  failure,  at  an  early  day,  ot  wood  for  bmld- 
ing  as  well  as  fuel,  which  threatens  the  British  settlement,  which  will  soon 
be  obliged  to  supply  itself  from  Lake  Winnipeg  at  great  expense,  is  another 
reason  why  Pembina  is  preferred,  it  being  directly  en  the  river;  it  has 
above  it  inexhaustible  forests,  extending  even  as  far  as  R-A  Lake,  trom 
which  wood  can  be  taken  down  the  current  in  rafts  to  any  anount. 

Fifth.  There  are  also  in  near  proximity  probable,  not  to  say  certain  in- 
dications that  stone-coal  and  iron  ores  will  be  found  to  bf.  abundant,  the 
working  of  which,  aided  by  the  encouragement  which  the  American  gov- 
ernment knows  so  well  how  to  afford  to  its  settlements,  ma)  soon,  we  Hat- 
ter ourselves,  form  an  important  branch  of  commerce. 

Sixth.  Pembina  is,  besides,  the  point  where  all  the  inhabitants  ot  the 
north-west  will  necessarily  pass,  in  communicating  with  the  United  States, 
and  is  without  dispute  the  only  natural  road  to  intercourse  with  the  civilized 
world.  We  can  come  from  England  by  the  way  of  Hudson's  Bay  but  once 
in  a  year,  and  this  is  across  deep  abysses,  and  for  so  few  days  only  as  serve 
to  change  the  cargo,  while  from  Pembina  it  would  be  easy  to  ascend  the 
Red  river  in  steamboats,  as  far  as  the  projected  settlement  at  the  end  oj 
the  Sioux  Woods,  about  300  miles,  thence  to  the  River  St.  Peters  by  canals, 
which  could  be  easily  made  on  the  level  prairies,  and  winch  are  not  ob- 
structed by  rocks,  thence  by  the  St.  Peters  river  in  steamboats. 

'in,:„  «^.,f,.  ««f.n  prsf""''  tKorp  vniiljl  ho  nn  immnnse  nuantitv  of  fertile 
lands  easy  of  cultivation  ready  to  be  settled,  and  the  products  ot  wliicn 
would  be  of  more  importance  than  those  of  abundant  mines. 

Seventh.  On  the  two  sides  of  the  Red  river  and  of  each  of  its  tributaries, 


Doc.  No.  51. 


43 


n  to  Pem- 

rom  Lake 
f  April  or 
the  end  of 
d  with  ice. 
four  days, 
dm  during 
le  distance 
3  severely, 
ihown  that 
lony,  flour- 

)in  inclina- 
on  Ameri- 
ritish  side, 
s  consider- 
where  the 
1  also  very 
egarded  as 
n  into  the 
of  scarcity 
ce. 

B  neighbor- 
ants  of  the 
f  transport- 

d  for  build- 
;h  will  soon 
e,  is  another 
iver;  it  has 
Lake,  from 
lunt. 

r  certain  in- 
undant,  the 
erican  gov- 
)on,  we  flat- 

tants  of  the 
nited  States, 
the  civilized 
Jay  but  once 
Dnly  as  serve 

ascend  the 
t  the  end  of 
IS  by  canals, 

are  not  ob- 


spread  out  prairies,  on  which  the  thick  high  grass  affords  evidence  of  their 
value,  composed,  as  they  are,  of  light  soil,  which  is  destitute  of  stones. 
Hay  is  abundant  everywhere,  affording  many  facilities  for  raising  cattle  and 
sheep,  which  would  becora  an  important  item  of  trade  when  transportation 
becomes  more  easy. 

Eighth.  In  fine,  the  country  is  exceedingly  healthy,  afflicted  with  neither 
cholera  nor  fevers ;  the  winds,  which  are  almost  constant,  purify  the  at- 
mosphere ;  and  we  frequently  see  cases  of  longevity  which  are  rare  else- 
where, such  as  children  playing  upon  the  knees  of  their  great-grandfather. 
Although  it  sometimes  happens  that  the  weather  is  so  cold  as  to  freeze  the 
mercury,  this  is  rarely-  the  case,  and  as  a  general  thing,  there  is  much  less 
suffering  from  cold  in  these  latitudes  than  there  is  from  the  summer  heat 
in  the  southern  States  of  America.  The  ground  is  frozen  about  the  be- 
ginning of  November,  and  is  susceptible  of  cultivation  near  the  end  of 
April. 

These  are  the  principal  advantages,  without  taking  to  account  the  pre- 
cious hope  of  our  soon  becoming  a  party  to  the  privileges  of  children  of  a 
republic  glorious  and  powerful,  \Vhich  calls  back  the  half-breeds  to  their 
ancient  home,  and  which  will  continue  to  draw  to  the  same  place  a  large 
number  of  the  employes  of  the  Hudson  Bay  Company,  so  soon  as  they 
shall  have  fulfilled  their  engagements  and  become  once  more  free. 

I  have  already  opened  two  schools  for  the  instruction  of  the  half-breods; 
one  in  French  and  the  other  in  Chippewa,  for  these  tongues,  conjointly 
with  the  Cree,  are  the  only  ones  now  in  use  here,  and  even  the  French  is 
not  much  spoken.  But  the  feeble  means  at  my  command  thus  far,  do  not 
permit  me  to  put  these  schools  upon  a  desirable  footing.  I  hope  much  from 
the  wisdom  of  those  agents  of  the  Government,  who  shall  be  charged  with 
appropriating  the  money  to  be  paid  for  the  lands  in  this  department. 

One  of  the  principal  wants  of  a  new  settlement  like  ours  is  a  court  of  jus- 
tice ;  afterwards  capitalists,  or  the  government  itself,  to  originate  works  or 
manufactures  which  would  require  the  labor  of  hands,  &c.  ;  then  an  acces- 
sion of  merchants  who  could  afford  to  take  the  fruits  of  the  earth  in  ex- 
change for  merchandize ;  or  if  these  are  not  accorded  us,  we  wish  at  least 
that  those  persons  of  influence  and  of  liberal  sentiments  will  use  their  in- 
terest with  the  government  to  procure  for  us  these  advantages,  without 
which  this  colony  must  languish.  We  hope  above  all  that  our  condition 
will  touch  your  feelings  in  such  wise  as  to  secure  for  us  your  suffrages. 

I  have  thus,  although  in  a  very  imperfect  manner,  portrayed  the  charac- 
ter of  our  Indians,  of  the  half-breeds,  and  the  state  of  the  country  generally, 
■which  comprise  the  answer  to  the  three  questions  contained  in  your  letter, 
and  to  which  you  desired  a  reply  ;  I  should  esteem  myself  fortunate  if  in 
doing  so  I  have  met  and  satisfied  your  wishes. 

I  am,  with  consideration,  my  dear  major,  your  very  humble  servant, 

(Signed)  G.  A.  BELCOURT, 

Majou  Wood.  Missionary  Priest. 


ity  of  fertile 
;ts  of  which 


ts  tributaries, 


am 


44 


Doc.  No.  51. 


Lettre  de  M.  Belcourt,  A.M.  C. 

St.  Paul,  25  Nov.,  1845. 
MoN  CHER  Ami  :  Je  puis  maintenant  vous  parler  sciemment  de  la  chasse 
du  bison  faite  par  les  habitants  de  notre  pays,  ayant  pu  les  accompagner 
dans  une  de  leurs  excursions.  Je  dois  prealablement  vous  prevenir  que 
la  course  d'automne  est  toujours  celle  ou  il  y  a  moins  de  chasseurs,  et  cela 
pour  les  raisons  suivantes.  Jne  partie  des  metis,  qui  n'ont  point  les 
moyens  d'hiverner  dans  la  colonie,  se  dispersent  de  cote  et  d'autre,  compt- 
ant  pour  subsister,  pendant  la  saison  rigoureuse,  sur  la  chasse  de  la  biche, 
de  I'orignal  et  de  I'ours ;  d'autres,  esperant  gagner  davantage  a  la  chasse 
des  ainmaux  a  pellaterie  qu'a  celle  du  bison,  survent  pour  cet  objet  le 
cours  des  rivieres  et  les  bords  des  lacs  :  de  sorte  qu'nn  tiers  des  hommes 
seuleraent  forme  le  partie  de  la  chasse  d'automne. 

Le  retour  de  la  derniere  chasse  d'ete  avait  ete  pitoyable.  Apres  une 
marche  tres-longue,  par  une  temperature  excessivement  chande,  tons  etai- 
ent  revenus  avec  le  quart  de  leurs  charges,  et  n'emportant  que  la  mauyaises 
provisions.  Ce  malheur  etait  du  plutot  a  leur  manque  d'union  qii  a  la 
rarete  des  animaux  :  aussi  plusieurs  etaient  decourages.  Ceux-ci  cepen- 
dant  reprirent  esperance,  loisqu'ils  apprirent  qu'un  pretre  devait  les  ac- 
compagner. Avec  la  confiance  d'un  meilleur  sort.  Ton  fit  des  preparatifs 
tant  a  St.  Boniface  qu'a  la  prairie  du  cheval  Blanc  ;  et  nous  nous  mimes 
en  marche,  les  uns  apres  les  autres,  jusqu'ou  9  Septembre  ou  je  parti  le 
dernier.  Le  rendez-vous  etait  marque  sur  la  riviere  Pembina,  non  pais  a 
I'ancien  establissement,  mais  a  environ  une  journee  de  marche  plus  haut. 
.3'y  arrivai  le  troisieme  jour  apres  mon  depart. 

Du  Sommet  de  la  colline  qui  s'  eleve  a  plus  de  200  pieds  au-dessus  du 
niveau  de  la  riviere,  je  decouvris  le  camp,  compose  d'environ  60  loges.  II 
efait  place  au  milieu  de  prairies,  dans  lesquelles  paissaient  environ  300 
chevaux  et  plus  de  100  boeufs.  Au  loin,  de  jeunes  chasseurs,  suivant  les 
detours  de  la  riviere,  revenaient  charges  cle  g^'bier,  tandis  que,  d'un  autre 
c6t<5,  des  enfants  retournaient  au  camp-  ployant  sous  le  poids  de  leur 
peche.  Les  charrettes  se  croisaient  en  tous  ^f^ns,  transportant  du  bois  de 
chaufFage,  des  essieux  de  reserve,  des  perches  pour  les  loges,  les  grils  et 
les  cadres.  Comme  nous  allions  quitter  le  bois  pour  nous  lancer  sur  une 
prairie  immense  comme  la  mer,  il  fallait  se  pourvoir  de  tons  ces  objets. 
Jusqu'ici  rien  de  facheux.  si  ce  n'est  un  violent  orage  que  j'endurai,  sub 

un  acci- 
secoue  par 


dio,  sur  la  montagne  de  Pembina,  et  encore  n'oserai-je  mentionner 
dent  si  ordinaire  aux  voyageurs,  si  je  n'eusse  ete  fortement  sec 
I'electricite  du  physicien  supreme.     Mon  cheval  fit  deux  ou  trois  pirouettes, 
et  demeura  abasourda  pendant  quelques  jours. 

Le  14,  par  un  temps  chaud,  nous  le.  '^•mes  le  camp  pour  gravir  la  cote 
opposee.  De  la  nous  apercumes,  comme  I'ocean  avec  ses  vagues,  cetle 
prairie  sans  homes,  avec  ses  collines  et  ses  vallons  se  succedan^  dans  une 
uniformite  constante  jusqu'au  Missouri,  j'oserais  dire,  jusqu'aux  Montagnes 
Rocheuses. 

II  nous  fallait  ici  determiner  vers  quel  point  I'horison  nous  devious  nous 
diriger.     Voyant  que  les  chasseurs  de  la  Riviere-llouge  ne  s'^  etaient  pas 


etabli  i^urs  quartiers  d'hiver  au  bout  de  la  Montagne  a  la  Fortuc  ot  sur  la 
Biviere  a  la  Souris  ;  en  consequence  nous  n'avions  point  de  chance  prob- 


I 


Doc.  No.  51. 


45 


,  1845. 
la  chasse 
:)mpagner 
venir  que 
rs,  et  cela 
point  les 
e,  compt- 
:  la  biche, 
la  chasse 
t  objet  le 
3  hommes 

A^pres  une 
tons  etai- 
mauvaises 
n  qii  a  la 
-ci  cepen- 
lit  les  iic- 
ireparatifs 
ous  mimes 
e  parti  le 
ion  pais  ft 
plus  haut. 

;-(Iessus  du 
loges.  II 
iviron  300 
suivant  les 
d'un  autre 
Is  de  leur 
du  bois  de 
les  grils  et 
;er  sur  une 
obiets. 
ndurai,  sub 
er  un  acci- 
secoue  par 
pirouettes, 

vir  la  cote 
igiies,  cette 
t,  dans  une 
Montagnes 

jvious  nous 
etaient  pas 
a  montagne 
evant  eux, 
His  avaient 
ue  et  sur  la 
liance  prob- 


able en  marchant  sur  leurs  brisees.  On  decida  done  qu'il  fallait  prendre 
une  direction  mitoyenne,  et  le  S.  S.  E.  d'abord,  puis  ensui^e  le  S.  S.  O. 
furent  admis.  Cette  route  devait  nous  conduire  au  sac  des  Branches,  But- 
tes  des  Trous,  Lac  du  Diable,  Petite  Fourche  de  la  Rlviire  a  la  Chayenne, 
Lac  du  Bois-blanc,  Mason  du  Chien.  L'avis  publiquement  donne,  et  des 
guides  nommes,  on  se  mit  en  marche. 

Les  charrettes,  uu  norabre  de  213,  s'avancaient  sur  trois  colonnes, 
trainees  les  unes  par  des  boeufs,  les  autres,  par  des  chevaux.  Elles  for- 
maient  des  lignes  beaucoup  plus  longues  qu'on  ne  Timaginerait  d'abord,  si 
I'on  ne  savait  qu'a  chacune  de  ce  voitures  sont  attachees  des  perches  de  15 
&  18  pieds  de  longue'^ur. 

Cependant  des  cavaliers  se  dispersaient  dans  toutes  les  directions,  et 
disparaissaient  dans  I'elorgnement  pour  ne  revenir  que  le  soir  au  lieu  in- 
digne  d'avance  poui  le  campement.  Comme  d'habiles  marins,  ces  enfants 
des  prairies  marchent  des  journees  entieres  ii  travers  des  cuteaux  et  des 
vallons  qui,  ii  I'oeil  de  I'ctranger,  n'offient  rien  de  distinctif,  et  ils  arrivent 
le  soir,  quelquefois  meine  au  ipilieu  des  tenebres,  pricisement  au  point 
designe. 

Nous  campames  de  bonne  heure,  attendant  avec  hate  le  rapport  des 
eclaireurs.  Le  premier  qui  parut  fat  mou  chasseur;  il  n'avait  point  vu  de 
bisons,  mais,  en  revanche,  il  apportait  deux  grues,  dont  I'une  mesurait  huit 
pieds  et  trois  ponces  d'enverg\ne.  Get  oiseau,  dont  la  chair  est  de  mau- 
vais  gout,  abonde  dans  cette  partie  du  pays ;  il  se  nourrit  de  racines  qu'il 
deterre  et  qu'il  arrache  avec  son  bee.  Blesse,  il  devient  un  redoutable  ad- 
versaire  ;  alors  portant  la  tete  a.  la  hauteur  d'un  homme,  il  poursuit  a  son 
lour  le  chasseur,  et  s  efTorce  de  lui  arracher  les  zeux.  II  est  arrive  que  de 
jeuncs  sauvages  ont  eu  le  ventre  perce  et  les  intestines  devores  par  cet 
oiseau  furieux. 

Vers  I'entree  de  la  nuit,  tous  etaient  de  retour,  ii  I'exception  de  deux 
hommes;  I'ou  avait  remarque  des  traces  toutes  fraiches.  Le  lendemain,  le 
nombre  ties  decouvrenrs  fut  plus  grand  encore.  Vers  10  heures  du  matin, 
les  deux  jeunes  chasseurs  qui  avaient  decoucho  revinrent  charges  de  viando 
fraiche,  et,  le  soir,  cet  article  dtait  en  abondance.  Mais  viande  de  tanreau 
n'est  pas  tres-r.greable  au  palais,  ni  trcs-facile  ii  digerer  :  cependant  ou  me 
servit  le  raeilleur  morceau,  la  langue  ;  "  car,  me  dit-ou,  vous  n'etes  pas  ac- 
coutume  ii  manger  de  cette  viande,  et  en  goutant  quelque  autre  piece  vous 
prendriez  le  mat  de  boeuf.''^  Le  mal  de  boeuf,  corame  ou  peut  le  soupcon- 
ner,  n'est  autre  chose  que  I'indigestion.  Cette  viande  paraissait  avoir  la 
consistance  du  cuir,  et,  comme  la  mastication  n'occupe  pas  long-temps  nes 
chasseurs  bouillants  de  sante,  ils  en  ttaient  parfois  les  dupes.  Enfin  nous 
pensions  pouvoir  rejoindre  le  lendemain  les  troupeaux  de  vaches. 

Je  ne  soignis  aux  chasseurs,  qui  laisaient  eclator  la  joie  la  plus  vive  et 
la  plus  bruyante.  Nous  avions  a  peine  chemine  pendent  une  demi-heure 
que  nous  apercumes  une  bande  de  boeufs.  On  les  nconnait,  de  fort  loin, 
par  leur  maniere  de  se  tenir  beaucoup  plus  eloignes  les  uns  des  autres  que 
ne  le  font  Ips  vaches.  Nous  avan^ions  au  petit  galop,  et  nous  en  etions  ii 
sept  ou  huit  arpents,  qu'  ils  paissaient  encore  paisiblement.  Alors  nous 
mimes  nos  chevaux  au  pas  ;  car,  si  Ton  y  va  doucement,  ils  ne  fuient  que 
lorsnu'on  est  fort  pres  d'eux. 

Toutefois,  pcu  soucioux  de  notre  visite,  ils  donnaient  des  marques  de 
leur  raauvaise  humeur.  Les  uns,  de  leurs  pattes  de  devant,  lan9aient  dans 
I'air  des  tourbillons  de  poussiere ;  d'autres  se  roulaient  sur  la  cerre  comme 


46 


Doc.  No.  51. 


les  chevaux,  puis,  avec  I'agilite  d'un  lievre,  se  relavient  tout-a-coup. 
Quelques-uns,  plus  soigneux  de  leur  gravite,  nous  regardaient  fixement, 
laissant  echapper,  de  temps  en  temps,  un  beuglement  sourd  et  compnme ; 
les  raouvements  saccad6s  de  leur  queue  nous  montraient  cependant  que 
notre  presence  ne  leur  etait  pas  plus  agreable  qu'a  leurs  compagnons. 

Enfin  le  signal  est  donne ;  nous  lan9ons  nos  coursiers,  et  devant  nous 
fuient  avec  legerete  ces  epaisses  et  lourdes  masses.  Plusieurs  sont  ren- 
verses  du  premier  coup ;  d'autres,  se  sentant  mortellement  blesses,  s'arre- 
lentfurieux,  dechirant  la  terre  ou  la  frappant  des  deux  pieds  de  devant, 
comme  des  beliers.  Sous  une  touffe  serree  de  poil,  leurs  yeux  etincelent 
de  rage,  et  avertissent  les  plus  intrepides  chasseurs  de  se  tenir  a  une  dis- 
tance respectueuse.  .  „  .  ,  . 
Cette  course,  qui  dura  un  quart-d'hcuie,  etait  a  peine  finie  qu  on  aper9ut 
un  nuage  de  poussiere  qui  s'elevait  du  haut  d'une  coUine,  a  plussicurs 
milles  de  nous.  Je  n'avais  pas  en  le  temps  d'eu  demander  la  cause,  que 
chacun  avait  saute  sur  son  coursier,  et  ciiait  en  galloppant:  la  vache!  la 
vachef  Ten  ne  prit  pas  meme  le  temps  d'arracher  la  langue  a  une  dizaine 
de  gros  boeufs,  restes  morts  sur  le  champ.  Bientot  tous  les  cavaliers  etaient 
sur  la  hauteur  d'ou  etait  parti  le  signal. 

Arrive  sur  les  lieux,  je  m'imaginais  voir  de  pres  ce  qu'on  m  annoncait 
avec  tant  d'assurance ;  mais,  ii  ma  grande  surprise,  de  quelque  cote  que  se 
dirigeassent  raes  regards,  je  n'apercevais  rien.  Enfin  I'on  me  fit  remar- 
quer,  n  une  distance  de  dix  a  douze  milles,  des  points  qui,  par  le  mirage, 
paraissaient  etre  des  arbres;  c'etait  la  ce  que  nos  chasseurs  reconnaissaient 
etre  non  pas  des  arbres,  ni  meme  des  boeufs,  mais  des  vaches. 

Tous  les  chasseurs  reunis  ici  etaient  au  nombre  de  55.  Les  chevaux 
semblaient  partager  la  joie  et  I'ardeur  de  leurs  maitres.  Moderer  I'aprete 
du  coursier  etait  chose  difficile  ;  mais  moderer  celle  du  cavalier  I'etait  bien 
davantage.  Le  grand  point,  si  I'on  veut  reussir  dans  cette  chasse,  c'est 
d'avancer  fort  doucement  jusqu'a  une  distance  d'environ  deux  portees  de 
fusil.  Si,  comme  cela  arrive  lorsque  les  chasseurs  n'ont  personne  pour 
les  diriger,  les  meilleurs  coursiers  sont  lances  de  loin,  les  plus  faibles  ne 
peuvent  plus  atteindre  leur  proie ;  de  la,  discorde,  querelles,  haines  et 
toutes  leurs  suites. 

L-instinct  des  bisons  les  porte  a  s'assembler  en  masse  lorsqu'ils  sont  at- 
taques.  Les  boeufs  qui  sont  eloignes  des  vaches  se  reunissent  d'abord, 
puis  fuient  devant  les  chevaux  jusqu'  a  ce  qu'ils  rejoignent  les  vaches ; 
celles-ci  se  rassemblent  a  leur  tour,  et  fuient  devant  les  premiers,  mais 
avec  beaucoup  plus  de  rapidite.  Pour  atteindre  les  vaches,  il  faut  done 
traverser  I'epaisse  phalange  formee  par  les  boeufs,  et  c'est  la  ce  qu'il  y  a 
de  plus  dangereux.  Voici  un  fait  qui  vient  a  I'appui.  Pendant  la  chasse 
de  I'ete  dernier,  un  sauvage,  jete  loin  de  son  cheval  qu'un  boeuf  avait 
renverse,  fut,  pendant  pres  d'un  quart-d'heure,  le  jouet  d'un  de  ces  ani- 
maux  furieux ;  tout  en  fuyant  a  la  course,  il  lan^ait  et  relan^ait  le  mal- 
heureux  chasseur  a  15  ou  20  pieds  en  Pair,  le  rattrapant  toujours  sur  ses 
comes.  Pour  donner  une  faible  idee  de  I'imraense  force  de  ces  animaux, 
il  suffit  de  dire  qu'un  d'eux,  venant  a  traverser  la  file  des  charrettes,  se 
porta  sur  une,  et  d'un  coup  de  come  la  fit  pirouetter  deux  ou  trois  fois. 
Or  cette  voiture,  trainee  par  un  chcval,  portait  une  charge  de  plus  de  raille 

jivr6s« 

Un  autre  danger  qui  n'est  pas  moindre  est  celui  de  se  trouver  dans  la 
direction  des  batles ;  lan(jees  de  tout  cote,  eiles  sifflent  d'une  maniere  ef- 


n 


)ut-a-coup. 
fixenient, 
comprime ; 
sndant  que 
jnons. 
jvant  nous 
s  sont  reu- 
ses, s'arre- 
de  devant, 
:  etincelent 
'  a.  une  dis- 

'on  aper9ut 
plussicurs 
cause,  que 
:  vachef  la 
une  dizaine 
liers  etaient 

n'annoncait 
cote  que  se 
;  fit  remar- 
r  le  mirage, 
)nnaissaient 

les  chevaux 
irer  I'aprete 
I'etait  bien 
;hpsse,  c'est 
c  portees  de 
rsonne  pour 
3  faibles  ne 
s,  haines  et 

'ils  sont  at- 
ent  d'abord, 
les  vaches; 
miers,  mais 
il  faut  done 
ce  qu'il  y  a 
nt  la  chasse 
boeuf  avait 
I  de  ces  ani- 
Kjait  le  mal- 
ours  sur  ses 
es  animaux, 
harrettes,  se 
ou  trois  fois. 
^lus  de  mille 

uver  dans  la 
nianiere  ef- 


Doc.  No.  51. 


47 


frayante  au  milieu  de  tourbillons  de  poussiore,  qui  ne  permeltent  pas  de  se 
voir  a  dix  pas.  Dernitrement,  dans  une  de  ces  courses,  un  horame  eut  le 
ventre  percc  par  une  balle ;  heureusement  cette  blessure  ne  fut  pas  mor- 
telle.  En  une  autre  occasion,  la  balle  traversa  le  capot,  la  chemise,  la 
peau  et  la  chair  d'un  chasseur,  et  all  s'arrtter  sur  les  os  de  I'estomac.  Par 
bonheur  aucun  de  ces  accidents  facheux  n'a  attriste  notre  voyage.  L'on 
pent  croire  qu'en  viie  de  tous  ces  dangers  le  chasseur  ne  peut  se  defendre 
dune  certaine  crainte,  assez  vive  pour  se  peindre  sur  sa  figure. 

La  rapidite  avec  laquelle  ils  d(5chargent  leur  fusil  est  etonnante  :  il  n'est 
pas  rare  de  voir  trois  bisons  abattus  par  le  morae  chasseur  dans  I'espace 
d'un  arpent.  Quelquesuns  meme  tirent  jusqu'il  cinq  fois,  tandis  que  leur 
cheval  parcourt  cette  distance  a  la  course.  Voici  leur  maniere  de  charger : 
le  premier  coup  seul  est  bourre  ;  pour  les  suivants,  ils  amorcent,  versent 
la  poudre,  puis  ayant  la  bouche  pleine  de  valles,  ils  en  laissent  tomber  une 
dans  le  fusil ;  la  salive  I'y  fait  attacher  a  la  pondre  au  ford  du  canon.  Ce- 
pendantle  coursier  est  abandonne  ti  lui  meme;  mais  il  est  si  bien  dresse, 
que,  lorsque  son  maitre  se  penohe  d'un  cote  ou  d'un  autre,  il  le  comprend, 
et  obeit  a  I'instant. 

Apres  la  premiere  course,  qui  dura  environ  une  demiheure,  je  comptai 
169  vaches.  Nous  campames  pres  de  ce  lieu.  lie  lendemain,  dans  une 
nouvelle  course,  ou  en  abattit  177.  Le  troisieme  jour,  plusiers  cavali«rs  se 
reposerent;  ceux  qui  coururant  rapperterent  au  camp  114  vaches;  le 
quatrieme  jour,  168  vaches  furent  tuees.  En  tout  c'etait  628  vaches.  On 
serait  porte  a  croire  que  deja  nous  deviona  avoir  une  charge  suffisante  pour 
nas  213  charrettes ;  il  s'en  fallait  neanmoins  de  beaucoup  que  nous  I'eus- 
sions  :  car  une  grande  quantite  de  viandes  est  perdue  par  la  maniere  dont 
on  s'y  prend  ici  pour  depecer  et  preparer  la  chair  du  bison. 

La  course  finie,  le  chasseur  place  I'animal  sur  les  genoux  ;  puis  il  lui 
etend  les  pattes  de  derriere  :  cette  position  le  sontient  sur  le  ventre.  On, 
commence  par  enlever  la  petite  bosse ;  c'est  une  eminence  de  chair,  d'en- 
viron  trois  livres,  qui  se  trouve  au  haut  du  con,  et  tient  a  la  grosse  bosse. 
L'on  ouvre  ensuite  la  peau  sur  le  dos,  et  on  la  leve ;  apres  quoi  l'on  Spare 
I'animal.     Voici  les  details  et  la  nomenclature  de  cette  operation. 

1"  Les  deux  depouilhs  se  levent  sur  les  cotes,  depuis  les  epaules  jusqu' 
aux  hanches :  elles  sont  separees  des  viandes  de  dessous  par  une  conche 
cartilagineuse  ou  plutot  une  peau  mince  ; 

2"  Les  filets,  nerfs  enveloppes  de  viande  qui  lient  les  palerons  aux 
hanches; 

3"  Les  bricoles,  deux  bandes  de  gras  qui  descendent  de  dessus  les  epau- 
les jusqu'an  bas  du  con  ; 

4"^  Les  petits  filet,  du  con,  petits  nerfs  envelloppes  de  viande,  qui  pren- 
nent  naissance  vis-u-vis  I'extremite  des  gros  filets  ; 

5"  Le  dessus  de  croupe,  qui  se  prend  au  haut  des  flancs ; 

6"  Les  des  epaules  ; 

7"  Les  dessons  d'Spaule,  lits  de  viande  entre  les  c6tes  du  brochet  et  les 
epaules ; 

8"  Le  pis,  partie  grasse  qui  contient  le  pis  ;  elle  s'etend  sous  le  ventre  et 
dans  les  Uancs ; 

9"  Tjc  ventre,  partie  charnue  qui  tient  an  bout  des  cotes,  et  sontient  les 
intestines; 

10"  La  pause,  que  les  metis  regardent  comme  un  morceau  friaud ; 

11°  La  grosse  basse,  qui  a  sa  plus  grande  hauteur  vis-a-vis  Irs  palerons  j 


fl'^' 


48 


Doc.  No.  51. 


elle  est  formee  par  des  as  minces,  larges,  inclines  en  arriere,  etant  dans  le 
.squellette  ce  qu'est  la  rangoe  d'arotes  sur  le  dos  des  poissons.  Cette  partie 
a  un  gout  deliceux. 

12"  Le  gras  on  siiifdu  dedans  du  corps  ; 

13"  Les  plats-cotes  on  cotelettes  ; 

14"  La  croupe ; 

15"  Le  brocket,  viande  qui  couvre  restomac  ; 

IG"  La  lanque. 

Le  reste  demeure  sur  le  champ  ;  c'est  I'heritage  des  loups.  Eparer  est 
une  operation  qui  fait  suer  le  chasseur;  nos  gens  y  deploient  une  habilete 
et  une  rapidite  vrairaent  etonnantes.  On  en  a  vu,  en  dix  heures  de  temps, 
tuer  dix  animaux,  et  les  eparer  a  eux  seuls.  La  forte  transpiration  les 
atterant  considerablement,  ils  out  le  soin  de  semunir  d'un  petit  baril  d'eau, 
transporto  sur  les  charettes  qui  voict  a  la  viande.  On  donne  ce  nom  aux  voi- 
tures  qui  se  rendent  au  lien  de  chaise,  et  qui  servent  a  rapportcr  les  vian- 
des  au  camp.  Sans  ce  secours,  ils  souffrent  horriblcment  dc  la  soif ;  le 
moyen  qu'ils  emploient  pour  diminuer  ce  tourmcnt,  est  de  manger  crus  les 
feuillets  on  les  parties  cartilagineuses  des  narines.  Si  la  farin  les  prend, 
ils  avalent  les  rognous,  qu'on  lait  cuire  en  les  trempant  dans  le  fiel ;  d'au- 
tres,  dit-on  ne  prennent  pas  meme,  cette  precaution  et  les  devorent  tout 
crus. 

Toutes  les  viandes  sont  tranchtos  par  les  femmes,  qui  les  devoulent 
dans  leurs  mains,  donnant  une  upaisseur  d'un  quart  de  ponce  a  cette 
longue  laniere,  qu'elles  etendent  ensuite  sur  des  grils,  comme  des  pieces 
de  linge.  Ces  grils  sont  formes  de  petites  perches  posees  horizontalement, 
et  ii  deux  ou  trois  rangs,  sur  des  trepieds  de  bois.  Aprcs  quelques  jours, 
ces  viandes  sont  scches ;  on  plie,  et  on  attache  en  ballots  du  poids  de  60  a. 
70  livres,  les  dessus  de  croupe,  les  depouilles,  les  dessoux  d'opaule,  les 
grosses  bosses  et  les  ventres.  Le  reste  est  pile  Ti  coups  de  floaux,  des 
peaux  servant  d'aire.  Cette  viande,  ayant  Cte  prealablement  exposee  a 
une  forte  chaleur  sur  un  gril  de  bois  vert,  est  devenue  cassante  et  facile  il 
reduire  en  poudre.  La  graisse  de  I'interieur,  hacliee  et  fondue  dans  de 
grandes  chandieres  de  tole,  est  vcrsee  sur  la  viande  |)iU'e,  que  Ton  brassc 
avec  des  pelles  jusqu'a  ce  que  toutes  les  parties  soient  bien  imbibees  ; 

f)uis  on  emplit  de  ce  melange  des  sacs  de  peau,  dont  on  ne  s'est  pas  donne 
a  peine  d'oter  le  poil.  On  appelle  taurcaux  ou  pimi/cchiijan  les  sacs  ainsi 
remplis.  Si  la  graisse  qu'on  a  employee  est  celle  du  pis,  ce  sont  des  tail- 
rearix  fins.  Quclques-uns  y  melent  des  fruits  seches,  tels  (}ue  poires, 
cerises;  on  les  apelle  alors  tdiiraaux  a  graines,  T^es  gastronomes  jugent 
la  premiere  cspece  bonne  ;  la  seoonde,  meilleure  ;  la  troi.sieme,  tres-bonne. 
Pour  donner  une  idee  de  la  diminution  de  ces  viandes,  il  sufFit  de  faire 
observer  qu'on  ne  tin;  d'une  vache  qu'un  domi-taureau  et  les  trois-quarts 
d'un  ballot  de  viande ;  de  maniere  que  les  plus  economes  calculent  (pfil 
faut  liuit  ou  dix  vachcs  pour  former  une  charge. 

Pour  nu'ttre  les  peaux  en  pnrchcinni,  apres  les  avoir  lendues  sin  des 
cadres,  ou  les  gratte  en-dedans  avec  un  os  aiguise,  et  en-debors  avec  une 
petite  gratte  Cf)upante,  propre  a  eidever  le  poil ;  c'est  la  I'ouvrage  des 
femmes.  Les  hommes  concassent  les  os,  (lu'ils  font  bouillir  dans  I'eau 
pour  en  extraire  la  graisse  de  inoelle,  emjiloyeu  j)Our  les  frilures.  Cette 
graisse  est  conservoe  dans  les  vessies  des  aidmaux.  II  faut  faire  consom- 
mer  les  os  de  deux  vaches,  avant  d'obtenir  asscz  de  graisse  pour  cmplir 
une  vcssie,  qui  en  contient  12  livres. 


efant  dans  le 
Cette  partie 


Eparer  est 
;  une  habllete 
res  de  temps, 
nspiration  les 
it  baril  d'eau, 
nom  aux  voi- 
•tcr  les  vian- 
Ic  la  soif;  le 
inger  crus  les 
rin  les  prend, 
le  fiel ;  d'au- 
devorent  tout 


es  devoulent 
once  a  cette 
ne  des  pieces 
izontalement, 
lelques  jours, 
poids  de  60  a 
d  epaule,  les 
le  floaux,  des 
it  exposee  a 
ite  et  facile  il 
due  dans  de 
e  Ton  brassc 
en  iinbibees ; 
L^st  pas  donnt'i 
les  sacs  ainsi 
sont  des  tau- 
I  (|ue  jioires, 
loint's  jugent 
V,  (rt's-bonne. 
sulFit  de  f'aire 
s  tniis-cpiarts 
dculcnt  (pfil 

iducs  sin  dos 
lors  avec  uno 
lOiivrage  des 
lir  dans  I'eau 
turcs.  r«!ttc 
"aire  consoni- 
e  pour  cinplir 


Doc.  No.  51. 


49 


Les  quadrupedes  de  ces  prairies  sont  le  bison  ;  le  cabris,  espece  de  ga- 
zelle ;  le  chevreuil ;  le  petit  chien  de  prairie,  qui  tient  du  renard ;  le  blai- 
reau ;  le  lievre,  different  de  celui  des  bois  qu'il  surpasse  en  grandeur  et  en 
agilite  ;  le  rat,  ressemblant  il  I'ecureuil  et  se  multipliant  prodigieusement ; 
le  loup,  en  nombre  immense,  et  dont  les  hurlements  empechent  de  dorrair, 
ceux  qui  n'y  sont  pas  accoutumcs;  enfin  Pours  blanc,  dont  un  individu 
fut  vu,  cette  annee,  au  lac  du  Bois-Blanc,  sans  qu'on  ait  pu  le  tuer. 

Tandis  que  nous  longions  le  lac  du  Diable,  nappe  d'eau  d'environ  10 
milles  de  long  sur  2  de  large,  quelques  cavaliers  poursuivirent  une  petite 
bande  de  vaches.  L'un  d'eux  etant  tombe  de  sa  raonture  ne  put  rejoindre 
son  cheval,  qui  continua  lesteraent  la  poursuite  comme  s'il  eut  du  faire 
grand  ravage  ;  taitt  ces  animaux  ont  de  passion  pour  la  chasse.  Voici  un 
trait  d'un  autre,  coursier  plus  intelligent.  Son  maitre,  ayant  plusiers 
chevaux,  laissa  celui-ci,  son  favori,  pour  qu'il  se  reposat,  et  en  partant  il 
recommanda  a  sa  femme  de  I'attacher ;  ce  qui  ne  fut  point  fait.  S'aperce- 
yant  qu'on  etait  parti  sans  lui,  le  noble  animal  donna  apres  nous,  nous 
joignit  au  moment  de  la  course,  s'elanca  dans  la  melee,  comme  s'il  eut  ete 
fouette  ;  puis,  suivant  la  vache  dans  tous  ses  detours,  il  semblait  attendre 
qu'elle  tombat.  La  course  'finie,  il  s'en  revint  hennissant  aupres  de  son 
maitre,  qu'il  sut  bien  retrouver,  quoique  les  chasseurs  fussent  disperses  ca 
et  la  sur  une  etendue  de  plusieurs  milles.  Quand  on  charge  de  campe- 
ment,  les  loges  se  trouvent  dans  des  positions  si  differentes,  qu'un  horame 
cherche  quelque-fois  long-temps  pour  retrouver  son  gite ;  mais  le  cheval, 
quoiqu'il  ait  ete  laisse  libre  a  (juelque  distance,  revient  a  une  heure  mar- 
quee ;  sans  faire  aucun  detour,  il  va  droit  a  la  loge  de  son  maitre,  et  frap- 
pant  la  porte  du  pied,  il  demande  imperieusement  le  prix  de  la  journ6e,  sa 
mesure  d'orge. 

Le  25  nous  carapamcs  sur  la  riviere  Chayenne,  la  branche  la  plus  longue 
de  la  Riviere-Rouge  ;  nous  y  vimes  d'immenses  troupeaux  de  vaches. 
Sur  un  espa^e  d'environ  un  arpent  en  superficie,  je  comptai  220  de  ces 
animaux  ;  on  les  bords  de  cette  riviere  etaient  ainsi  converts  a  perte  de 
vue  et  dans  toutos  les  directions.  Qu'on  juge  maintenant,  s'il  est  possible, 
de  la  richcsse  de  ces  prairies.  N'cst-il  pas  deplorable  que  la  main  gene- 
reuse,  (jui  depuis  si  long-temps  distribue  le  pain  quotidien  a  tant  de  peuples, 
n'en  soit  pas  encore  connue  I  Les  metis  chretiens  ne  sont  rien  compares 
ii  tant  de  nations  (jui  se  nourrissent  constararaent  et  exclusivement  du 
produit  de  cette  chasse  . 

Comme  j'acconipagnais  presque  toujours  les  chasseurs  lorsqu'ils  quit 
taient  le  cam[),  je  fus  t<'moin  do  leur  situation  perilleuse  dans  la  premiere 
course  (ju'ils  fuent  en  ce  lieu.  S'etant  mis  ii  la  poursuite  d'une  nombreuse 
bande  de  vaches,  ils  en  etaient  an  plus  fort  do  I'ordeur  et  de  la  vitessc,  lors- 
(ju  ils  arriverent,  ])("le-mele  avec  ces  animaux,  sur  le  haut  d'une  cote  escar- 
pee  et  semee  de  roches,  ou  culbuterent  et  roulerent  ensemble  vaches.  che- 
vaux, cavaliers,  dans  une  telle  confusion,  qu'on  ne  pent  s'expl:(|uer  com- 
nient  aucun  d'eux  ne  soit  restu  mort  sur  le  couj),  ou  assomme  contre  les 
pierres,  ou  ('erase  par  ceauxtpii  suivaient.  Vhi  scul  homme  perdit  connais- 
sance,  et  se  remit  bieiitol ;  une  couple  de  chevaux  se  relevf'rent  en  boitant- 
et  (iuel<iues  vaches  eurent  les  pattcs  cassees.  Les  cavaliers  dt'sarconnes 
se  releverent  en  poussant  des  eris  de  joie  pour  rassurer  leurs  compngnons, 
et  se  remirent  a  la  poursuite,  faisant  chuiuer  le  fonet  a  (pii  mieux  mieux, 
ann  de  rrprarer  ie  temps  jjcrdue  ;  car,  cummc  on  pcut  Ic  pcnscr,  !u  vachc 
ne  les  avait  pas  attendus.  Quand  ji  mo  jus  assure  (ju'il  n  etait  rien  arrive 
DOC.  51.— 4 


50 


Doc.  No.  51. 


de  facheux,  je  continual  a  suivre,  jusqu'  a  ce  qu'  etant  parvenu  a  une 
prarie  unie,  je  melancai  parrai  les  chasseurs,  et  abattis  une  vache.  Je 
m'en  tins  la,  quoique  je  me  sentisse  tente  d'aller  plus  loin  ;  mais  je  n'avais 
joint  de  raison  de  m'exposer  au  danger  et  au  blame. 

Un  cliasseur,  au  retour  de  cette  course,  ayant  suivi  la  petite  riviere  dans 
ses  detours,  avait  reraarque  des  traces  laissees  par  le  castor.  Le  lendemain, 
il  tendit  pieges,  et  en  tua  cinq.  J'allai  moi-meme  voir  leur  chaussee,  ou- 
vrage  vrairaent  admirable.  En  cet  endroit,  il  n'y  a  debois  que  de  petits 
saules  de  la  grosseur  du  doigt ;  cependant  cette  chaussee  est  si  solide 
qu'elle  sert  de  pont  au  bison :  je  pus  avec  facilite  la  passer  a  cheral. 

Depuis  plusieurs  jours  le  camp  etait  dans  une  disette  entiere  de  bois,  la 
provision  que  nous  en  avions  faite  a  Pembina  etant  epuisee.  On  se  seryit 
de  fiente,  de  cotes  et  de  palerous  de  vache,  pour  alimenter  nos  feux  et  faire 
cuire  les  viandes  necessaires  a  I'usage  journalier.  Ce  feu  est  ardent,  sur- 
tout  quand  les  fumiers  sont  bien  sees ;  mais  il  laisse  echapper  une  furaee  a 
laquelle  un  nez  etranger  ne  se  fait  pas  aisement.  Nos  travaux  souffraient 
done  de  la  disette  de  bois ;  le  soleil  n'avait  plus  asez  de  force  pour  secher 
les  viandes,  ce  qui  exigeait  I'aide  du  feu.  Nous  fumes  en  consequence 
obliges  de  quitter  ce  lieu  pour  nous  rendre  aux  iles  du  Lac  au  Bois-Blanc, 
c'est-a-dire  aux  bouquets  de  bois  qui  environnent  ce  petit  lac. 

Ce  lieu  es  des  plus  pittoresques,  et  offreles  points  de  vue  les  plus  beaux 
et  les  plus  varies.  Le  lac,  qui  n'est  qu'un  bassin  entoure  de  collines  fort 
hautes,  renferme  une  eau  tres-salee ;  mais  il  est  environne  de  sources 
deau  douce  assez  abondantes.  Les  pentes  des  collines  sout  boisees  de 
chene,  de  frene  et  de  bois-blanc.  De  leur  sommet,  ou  apercoit  a  une 
petite  distance,  la  Maisori  du  chien,  colline  qui  sert  de  ve  dette  aux  Sioux, 
pour  reconnaitre  leurs  ennerais  ;  d'un  autre  cote,  sout  les  hauteurs  appeles 
Grands- Coteaux  :  elles  se  prolongent  et  long  du  Missouri,  sur  une  ligne 
parallele  aux  Montagnes-Rocheuses.  De  notre  campement,  sur  un  bon 
cheval,  ou  pouvait  se  tendre  au  Missouri  en  une  journee  de  marche,  la 
distance  n'etant  que  de  25  lieues. 

Arrives  dans  ce  campement  le  2  octobre,  nous  y  demeurames  juscju'an 
16,  ayant  suns  cesse  le  bison  autour  de  nous  en  tri's-grande  abondance. 
Le  10,  il  y  eut  une  forte  chute  de  neige,  et  le  thermometre  se  tenant  con- 
stamraent  pendant  deux  jours  a  5"  au-dessoux  au  zero  de  Reaumur,  la 
glace  devint  solide  sur  le  lac.  Six  jours  apres,  la  temperature  d'adoucit, 
et  la  neige  disparut.  Ce  froid  ne  retardait  en  rien  nos  travaux  ;  an  con- 
traire,  chacun  craignani  un  hiver  premature  travaillait  nuit  et  jour  ;  les  plus 

fiuresseux  se  faisaient  violence,  de  peur  que  les  plus  diligents,  ayant  fini 
eur  charges,  no  repartissent  sans  les  attendre. 

Je  n'aurais  pas  voulu  laisser  ces  troupeaux  sans  prendre  une  juste  idee 
de  leur  taille  et  de  leur  conformation.  Comrae  dans  les  autres  especes,  le 
male  es  plus  gros  que  la  vache  :  ses  cornes  paraissent  a  peine  au  milieu 
dune  toutfe  de  polls  qui  lui  couvren:  une  partie  de  la  tete  et  du  con,  et 
lui  donnent  une  mine  tout-a-fait  etrange  :  la  va(;he,  au  contraire  n'est  point 
pourvue  de  cette  criniere,  de  sorle  (jue  ses  comes  saillantes  la  lout  recon- 
naitre de  lien.  Je  mesurai  un  boeuf  de  taille  moyenne,  et  je  lui  trouvai  8 
pieds  et  9  pouces  de  tour ;  9  pieds  et  2  pouces  de  longueur ;  20  pouces  du 
nez  au  haut  du  front :  1  pied  et  3  pouces  de  <jueue  :  14  pouces  entre  les 
deux  yeux.  La  plus  longue  cote  de  la  bosse,  inclinee  en  arriere  de  20 
UegiOs  bui  i'upiiie  Auisak-,  avait  20  puuit!.^  de  iongUeUr. 

Quoique  le  voyage  d'  ete  suit  plus  favorable  pour  prendre  les  vcaux  et 


Doc.  No.  51. 


51 


parvenu  a  une 
ae  vache.  Je 
nais  je  n'avais 

te  riviere  dans 
Le  lendemain, 
•  chaussee,  ou- 

que  de  petits 
3  est  si  solide 
L  cheral. 
iere  de  bois,  la 
On  se  servit 
)s  feux  et  faire 
ist  ardent,  sur- 
?r  une  furaee  a 
aux  souffraient 
ce  pour  secher 
n  consequence 
au  Bois-Blanc, 
c. 

les  plus  beaux 
le  collines  fort 
ne  de  sources 
out  boisees  de 
apercoit  a  une 
!tte  aux  Sioux, 
mteurs  appeles 
I,  sur  une  ligne 
nt,  sur  un  bon 

de  marche,  la 

rames  juscju'an 
ide  abondance. 
se  tenant  con- 
le  Reaumur,  la 
ature  d'adoucit, 
vaux  ;  an  con- 
t  jour ;  les  plus 
3nts,  ayant  fini 

I  une  juste  idee 
itres  espf'ces,  le 
)eine  au  milieu 
e  et  du  con,  et 
aire  n'est  point 
s  la  lout  recon- 
je  lui  trouvai  8 
;  20  pouccs  du 
out'os  entre  les 
J  arril're  de  20 

e  les  vcaux  et 


les  priver,  j'eu  tentai  nt-aumoins  I'essai  a  ce  voyage.  Un  chasseur  en 
poursuivit  un,  et  le  prit  au  collet ;  mais,  apres  cinq  ou  six  jours,  il  mourut 
d'  avoir  trop  couru,  me  dit-on.  Pour  moi,  je  pense  que  ce  fut  d'enniii,  car  il 
refusa  de  manger  pendant  ces  six  jours.  Au  printemps,  ces  veaux  se  privent 
facilement ;  et  quand  ils  sont  demptes,  ils  deviennent  tres-utiles.  Un 
habitant  qui  en  avait  dresse  un  a  la  charrue,  labourait  sans  difficultic  avec 
cet  animal  seul. 

Enfin,  le  16  octobre,  nous  repartimes,  emportant  sur  nos  voitures  1,776 
vaches  tuees  par  55  chasseurs.  Cette  viande  formait  228  taureaux.  1,213 
ballots  de  viande  seche,  166  boskoyas  ou  sacs  de  graisse,  pesant  chacun  200 
livres,  et  556  vessiss  de  graisse  de  moelle,  de  12  livres  chaque :  le  tout, 
calcule  au  taux  le  plus  modere,  valant  un  peu  plus  de  dix-sept  cents  livres 
sterling.  Les  frais  de  voyage,  gages  d'emplojes  ne  s'elevant  guere  qu'a 
£200,  il  reste  £1,500,  gagnes  par  55  chasseurs  dans  Pespace  de  moins  de 
deux  mois,  a  compter  du  jour  du  depart  au  jour  du  retour. 

Nous  etions  en  tout  309  ames;  j'avais  catechise  regulierement  68  en- 
fants  ;  la  messe  s'etait  dite  tous  les  jours  ;  Dieu  etait  servi  et  glorifie  par 
I'union  cpii  rcgnait  entre  tous  les  membres  de  notre  petite  communante. 
Deux  fois  le  feu  avait  etc  mis  a  la  prairie,  et  chacpie  fois  une  pluie  piovi- 
dentielle  6tait  tombee  a  propos  pour  Peteindre.  Pleinsde  reconnaissance, 
nous  nous  en  retournious.  chacun  rendant  graces  a  Dieu  du  bonheur  ([u'ils 
avaient  eu  d'etre  accompagnes  d'un  de  leurs  pasteurs ;  car  c'  etait  a  son 
influence  qu'ils  attribuaienl  les  enormes  charges  quils  remportaient. 

II  est  facile  de  comprendre  que,  s'il  ne  se  trouve  (juelqu'un  qui  joigne  a 
I'influence  de  son  caractcre  la  force  des  paroles  pour  raaintenir  la  Concorde 
et  I'union,  bientot  le  di'sordre  s'ctablit  parmi  ces  hommes  ardents.  Le 
plus  prCt  s'eiance  vers  le  troupeau ;  il  n'est  plus  possible  de  le  joindre. 
Mettant  seul  en  finite  une  i)roie,  a  lacpielle  tous  eussent  pris  part,  il  revient 
avec  2  ou  3  vaches,  lorstju'cn  aurait  per  en  tuor  deux  ou  trois  cents.  C'est 
ce  ({ui  avait  fait  leur  malheur,  depuis  tjue  des  pn'tres  avaient  cesse  de  les 
accompagner  dans  leurs  expeditions  rle  rhasse.  Ainsi,  pendant  que  paisi- 
bles  au  meme  endroit,  nous  amassions  a  loisir  les  provisions  cjue  nous 
choississons ;  d'un  autre  cote,  les  chasseurs  de  la  Riviere  Rouge,  livres  \\ 
la  discorde,  voyaient  sans  cesse  fuir  leur  proie([u"ils  ne  pouvaient  atteindre, 
et  se  desesperaient  de  leur  i)eu  de  succes.  En  consi(iuence,  ils  reviurent 
a  demi-charges  de  viande  verte  ou  viande  dc  taureau.  Im  semblable  voy- 
age ne  saurait  couvrir  les  frais  (juil  entraine. 

II  est  indubitable  <|u'un  piotro  ferait  beaucoup  de  bien  en  suivant  les 
chasseurs,  nou-seulement  sous  le  rapport  mati-riel,  mais  encore  sous  le  rap- 
port moral  et  religieux.  Sa  presence  arrr'terait  bien  des  desordres  du  cote 
desmoeurs;  il  pourrait  catt'-chiser  les  enfants  (|ui,  sans  cesse  errants  ne 
p«uvent  recevoir  ailleurs  linstruction  religieuse  ;  son  inlluence  s'etendrait 
jusipu's  sur  les  sauvages,  ;.  la  conversion  desquels,  etant  parmi  eux,  il  tra- 
vaillerait  plus  eilicacement.  J'eu  jiarle  par  lexprrience  ac(|uise  pendant 
ce  voyage  :  tous  ceux  (jue  j'ai  rencontres,  a  la  premiere  invitation  ijue  je 
leur  en  ai  faite,  sont  venus  erouter  la  parole  de  i)ieu.  (iuant  a  nos  (.'hrr- 
tiens,  il  etait  ediliant  de  voir  avec  ([uel  empressement  ils  assistaienl  au*: 
catechismes.  Plusieurs  ont  entendue  la  messe  tous  les  jours  ;  et  tous  les 
dimanches,  10  a  15  s'approchaient  de  la  sainte  table.  En  ces  jours,  je 
<lonnais  une  instruction  en  langue  (luj>ays;  cette  attention  plaisait  infini- 
ment  aux  metis,  aci  outuraes  a  n'entcndic  prcclicr  ijU  en  langue 
qu  ils  comprcnnent. 


"'■•-'■■  ifiirit;aise. 


zo 


Doc.  No.  51. 


•1  r  11  -f  f..r.p  -,11  nord  •  nous  avions  devant  nous  une 
Pour  notre  retour,  il  fallait  -^^^^^^J^J^^^t,.     Pendant  cette  marche. 
n.arche  de  dix  jours  suvune  l^^^^^^^^J^^^.i^.^^ue  nuit  le  ihermometre  de 
nous  ne  pouvions  a  lu.ueMl^  ItdSns  de  ze/o  :  car  nous  6tions  depour 
Reamur  marquat  3  a  4  ^^g^^  ^u  ^^^^  ,^^^^^  empechcs  d  y 

vus  de  bois,  que  la  P^^^^"^^."    '7, !'„''' ^^ent,  feus  Ic  loisir  d'exarainer  des 
aiouter.     Comma  nous  chimin  onsleu^^^^  ^.    ^^^^^  ^^  _ 

'::^^''^^:^^^^'-  -^"- "  '-''-'''  ^"^'^^^^ 

--r;^ -^  .ud  coinme  le  ^^^-^^^^^^  ^  ^^  ^^  ^^  ^^^ 
dont  elle  a  ete  formoe  f /J  f  I J'^; '^^^  d'un  metis,  qui,  comme  moi, 
Le22.  e  pns  les  d^^^^^^' ,^*r^""Ss  mrtions  du  point  ou  le  48"  de 
.vait  deux^  bons  chevaux  de  relai.  ^^^-^^P-^tJ^^tvlons  a  nous  diriger 
lat.  N.  est  coupe  par  les  9-3    •JV^^"^-^^.'  tombames  sur  un  petit 

vers  le  N.N.E.     A  2  heures  ^f  ^J^F-^^-^^^^^^  .i^nde  fralchc  autour  du 

parti  de  metis  -gj-^^;i^",„^;:^; V^Snt  le  cours  d/la  journce.nous 
Lac  de  Roches  ^^^^^^^/^l^'^^Xlet  de  boeufs.  Le  soir,  noms  campumes, 
vimesdegrandesbandesde^  aches  ei  „i^,i.^ie.     Nous  ne  pumes 

sans  feu  et  sans  eau,  par  ^"^^,  ^^  ;  f  ^^'t^e^soif ;  bref,  notre  position 
prendre  de  nournture,  ce  qui  ^^'S"  ^"  .^-^ !'"  [^^^^eV  du  soleil,  le  lende- 
Inait  telle  que  nous  ^evions  etre  inat^^  eux  .  au  ^-^^^      \     ^^^;^  ^^^^,,. 

„,ain,  nous  aions  sur  la  ^^^^^^T^';;^,^^^  d'apaiser  notre 

La  nous  trouvames  du  bois  et  ^^2^;!^  ^x  j/,,^,  ,;,  ;,.,;,,  et  le  24,  a  11 

de  Greenwich.  Je  suis,  etc. 


,.,       ,  Four  Snklling,  Ortohcr  \st,  1849. 

(Cnpy.)  ^  .     „,^,,  ,,..,  T,.,iv;d  at  this  place  on 

MA,iu:   I  have  the  honor  to  "T"-'     •>■-"' J.^.^''    ;,,,eji!,tely,  in 

:t^r  s;t.tti::i;sju;',:^;;c'a'n;;;p  o,-  .he ,..uea 

them  embodied  on  the  map.  V^V  -^v  m  10  feet  muddy  bottom.  From 
follo^vs.  From  Pe.nbina  to  Red  lake  ^^\^^^^(^Ze  v\^^^^^  gravelly. 
Red  lake  river  to  Goose  "\':^'  .^/  ^  j'  .^  one  mile  long  half-way 
From  Goose  to  Shayen  river,  9  lect      '     ^  foet  of  water  upon  it.    From 

between  Goose  and  f^y^!^^2:^;:X^-^-^^-y  l-'^- /r^.^" 
Shayen  to  post,   ai.out  (>  f^^\t ,  Ik  t    m  k  >,  Otter-lail  lake  is 

The  portion  of  R-<1  ^^^'^J- ^^^''^^^^''^'^^^  ;  \w^  through   Leaf 

shallow,  and  intersected  by  """^^\"  ^^  ^^^.^  fi'.m  a  point  20  miles  east 
mouniain.     U  is  heavily  |;">''*-'':^''  •      ."  f  "^^^^^^^^  west  of  Otter- 

of  road  to  the  lake,  an.l  there  is  '^^  j  ^  ^  \;^'\'  'o  ,\,,s  Sioux  to  the  road, 
tail  lake.     It  is  swampy  Irom   he  '"°  f '' 7.   "^^   \ue  and  the  Crow-wing 

There  are  three  Po^^^f^'^-'^^tr    tW     cond  a^^^^^^^^^  '-^'^'l  ^^^^ 

river:  the  first  about  one  "V!f.  j""J;„!\-,^;,^°r.;\de.  but\ery  shallow, 
third  about  hall-a-miie.  \!'''  ^^„„;_;,' 4- ^r  5  wide  ;  its  greatest  length 
Otter-tail  lake  is  aboiU  ten  miles  long,  ""^  ^  0  f  {  f  j^j^^i,^;  j,  Uie  Ued 
in  a  direction  N.  60"  E.    No  islands.    As  with  tne  n 


ant  nous  une 
cette  marche, 
n'mometre  de 
Jtions  depour- 
empechcs  d'y 
'examiner  des 
les  sont  tres- 
nc  petrifies  se 

le  fil  de  celui 

i,  coinme  moi, 
t  ou  le  48';  de 

a  nous  diriger 
s  sur  un  petit 
Ichc  autour  du 

journoe,  nous 
oms  campames, 
ous  ne  pumes 
,  notre  position 
aleil,  le  lende- 

notre  couchee* 

d'apaiser  notrc 
?,  et  le  24,  a  11 
7^'  40'  long.  0. 


hcv  \st,  1849. 
at  this  place  on 
im.acdiately,  in 
le  loute  pursued 

ce,  you  will  find 
:  Red  river  is  as 
y  bottom.    From 
'  placos  gravelly, 
le  long  half-way 
r  upon  it.    From 
any  laif^e  rocks. 
Otler-lail  lake  is 
;cs  through    liCaf 
aint  20  miles  east 
lie  west  of  Otter- 
sioux  to  the  road. 
1(1  the  Crow-wing 
>0  yards  -,  and  the 
»ut   very  shallow, 
its  greatest  length 
ssissippi,  the  Ued 


t 
i 
.1- 


Doc.  No.  51. 


53 


river  is  much  more  heavily  timbered  on  its  right  than  on  its  left  bank. 
The  map  I  leave  for  you  v.ith  Mr.  Nelson,  contains,  1  think,  all  you  will 
find  necessary  in  connection  with  your  report.  If  anything  should  be 
wanting,  I  can  communicate  it  to  you  from  St.  Louis. 

Having  thus  complied  with  your  instructions,  and  understanding  from 
Colonel  Loomis  that  you  are  not  soon  expected  back,  I  have  determined, 
upon  consultation  with  some  of  the  officers  of  the  post,  and  in  view  of  the 
conversations  I  have  had  with  you  on  the  subject,  to  repair  to  St.  Louis. 
I  am  the  more  anxious  to  do  so  as  I  learn  by  letters  from  home  that  my 
father  is  very  sicJc. 

I  have  the  honor  to  be,  with  great  res])ect,  your  obed't  serv't, 

(Signed)  JOHN  POPE, 

Bret.  Capt.  T.  E. 

Brevet  Major  S.  Woods,  6th  Infantry, 

Commanding  p.xpcdition  to  Red  river. 

{Copy.)  -  Fort  Snelling,  October  '3d,  1849. 

Gentlemen  :  It  is  with  mucli  regret  I  find  myself  unable  to  furnish 
you,  as  you  requested,  with  a  detailed  account  of  the  expedition  of  the 
past  summer  to  the  northern  portion  of  your  territory.  I  have  been  so 
unwell  for  several  days  as  1o  be  iiu'upable  of  attending  to  my  own  busi- 
ness here  ;  and  1  now  discover  that  1  have  barely  time  to  arrange  my 
affairs  so  as  to  enable  me  to  depart  for  Washington  on  the  next  boat. 

regret  this  the  more,  as  I  have  traversed  portions  of  the  country  not 
before  examined  ;  and  am  satisfied  that  nothing  more  is  necessary  for  the 
rapid  progress  of  Minnesota,  than  a  fair  statement  of  the  numerous  advant- 
ages it  otlers  to  persons  immigrating  to  the  west.  The  fertility  of  the  soil, 
and  the  many  and  valuable  water  privileges  embraced  within  the  bound- 
aries of  this  territory,  so  far  exceed  anytliing  1  had  previously  supposed, 
that  I  am  at  a  loss  to  express  myself  with  sullicient  force  to  set  before  the 
country,  in  their  true  lights,  the  remarkable  features  of  this  portion  of  the 
north-west.  The  Mississippi  and  Lake  Superior  on  tlie  east,  the  Red 
river  in  the  center,  and  the  Minnesota  or  St.  Peters  on  the  south,  enclose 
almost  an  island,  unpurallelled  for  the  advantages  it  olfers  to  th.e  manu- 
facturer ami  farmer.  The  only  diiliculty  (ami  that  is  by  no  means  uni- 
versal,) is  the  scarcity  of  wood„ 

This  difficulty  is  almost  eniirely  confined  to  the  west  side  of  the  Red 
liver  of  the  north  ;  hut  the  heavy  timber,  abundant  on  all  the  numerous 
tributaries  of  this  stream  from  the  west,  almost  does  away  any  fear  on  this 
subject. 

The  numerous  lakes  on  the  maps,  so  far  from  indicating  a  low  or  swampy 
region,  are  surrounded  with  high  rolling  country,  densely  covered  with 
oak,  and  the  other  forest  trees  common  to  this  latitude,  and  are  connected 
with  each  other  by  streams  which,  with  their  numerous  ra()ids,  afford  an 
Inexhaustible  water  power. 

These  remarks  are  peculiarly  ap])licable  to  that  portion  of  Minnesota 
territory  embraeed  between  the  mouth  of  Crow-wing  river  and  the  head  ot 
Red  river  and  Red  lake.  A  more  beautiful  and  fertile  country  than  the 
portion,  through  which  I  recently  passed,  I  believe  does  not  exist.  The 
region  bor'ering  on  the  lower  Red  river  presents  no  elevated  country,  but 
is  compose. .  of  the  richest  vegetable  mould,  three  or  four  feet  deep,  and 
requiring  hardly  any  attention  to  make  it  produce  most  abundantly.     The 


"  fF 


M 


Doc.  No.  51. 


Red  river  itself  is  heavily  timbered,  on  both  banks,  to  its  point  of  intersec- 
tion with  the  parallel  of  49  degrees  north  latitude,  and  is  navigable  for 
boats  of  three  or  four  feet  draught  of  water,  for  four,  and  some  seasons  five 
months  in  the  year,  for  500  miles,  and  to  a  point  within  125  miles  of  the 
Mississippi. 

I  cannot,  in  this  short  communication,  sufficiently  set  forth  to  you  the 
vivid  and  most  favorable  impressions  I  have  conceived  of  your  territory. 
I  think  it  merely  necessary  to  show  to  the  world  the  actual  state  of  thmgs 
to  ensure  its  rapid  advancement.  A  portion  of  the  pon-'  y  embraced  be- 
tween Otter-Tail  lake,  one  of  the  sources  of  the  Mississippi  and  Red  lake, 
has  never  been  explored.  Would  it  not  be  advisable  for  your  delegate  in 
Congress  to  procure,  this  winter,  an  appropriation  for  that  purpose'? 
Having  begun  the  exploration,  I  shall,  during  the  winter,  execute  a  map, 
and  make  a  report  of  the  region  I  have  seen.  It  would,  truly,  be  a  pleas- 
ing duty  should  I  be  selected  to  complete  the  examination  next  season. 

As  I  feel  deeply  interested  in  the  prosperity  and  welfare  of  the  half- 
breed  residents  on  the  northern  frontier  of  your  territory,  from  having  ob- 
served their  activity,  industry,  and  law-ebiding  character,  I  am  induced  to 
offer  +0  your  notice,  as  the  persons  most  proper  to  bring  such  a  subject  to 
the  attention  of  your  legislature,  some  hints  as  to  the  proper  course  to  be 
adopted  tc  ensure  the  protection  of  the^e  people,  and  the  foundation  o 
a  successful  i>nd  prosperous  settlement  along  that  border.  The  success  o 
this  settlement  I  regard  as  the  more  important,  as  it  is  directly  in  contact 
with  the  possessions  of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company,  who  now  exercise 
a  paramount  sway  within  the  American  territory,  and  who  are,  every  year, 
drawing  from  this  country,  by  their  fur  trade,  an  immense  revenue. 

The  whole  of  the  Red  river  settlement  was,  at  one  time,  within  what  are 
now  the  possessions  of  the  United  States ;  but  as  soon  as  thio  fact  became 
known,  the  half-1: reeds  were  actually  forced,  by  the  Hudson's  Bay  Com- 
pany, to  remove  to  the  British  side  of  the  line.  Almost  al)  the  trapping 
and  hunting  is  now  done  within  the  limits  of  the  territory  of  Minnesota ; 
and  as  it  has  been  apparent  that  no  protection  was  afforded  by  our  govern- 
ment, and  great  favors  are  shown  by  the  company  to  those  residing  on 
English  soil,  it  is  not  to  be  wondered  at  that  the  greater  portion  of  the  I'.alf- 
breeds  continue  to  leraain  north  of  the  line.  They  are,  at  present,  entirely 
dependent  for  their  winter's  supply  of  provisions  upon  the  buffalo  hunting 
on  this  side,  and  share  equal  privileges,  as  matters  now  stand,  with  those 
residing  o.i  American  soil . 

Three  things  only  are  necessary  to  establish  a  prosperous  and  jiopulous 
settlement  on  the  American  side,  within  your  territory,  and  these  can  at 
once  be  effectc  ^-v  the  action  of  your  legislature,  with  the  aid  of  your 
executive  and  judicial  officers :  1st,  Let  the  law  against  the  encroachments 
of  the  citizens  or  subjects  of  foreign  countries  upon  our  terriiories  be  en- 
forced ;  2d,  Memorialize  the  general  government  to  extinguish  the  Inchan 
title  to  the  lands  in  that  (|uater,  and  then  extend  the  laws  of  Minnesota 
over  the  people  of  the  settlement,  by  establishing  courts  of^  justice,  and 
appointing  official  persons  to  regulate  their  affairs;  3d,  Throw  open, 
by  means  of  roads  and  other  facilities,  the  trade  and  commerce  of  the 
Mississippi,  and  introduce  among  them  the  currency  of  the  United  States, 
now  much  less  valued  than  the  notes  of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company,  pay- 
able sixty  days  after  sight  in  London. 

These  things  they  certainly  have  a  right  to  claim ;  and  I  sincerely  hope 


I 


Doc.  No.  51. 


55 


of  intersec- 
vigable  for 
easons  five 
liles  of  the 

to  you  the 
ir  territory. 
B  of  things 
ibraced  be- 
l  Red  lake, 
delegate  in 
;  purpose '? 
ute  a  map, 
be  a  pleas- 
season, 
f  the  half- 
having  ob- 
induced  to 
I  subject  to 
;ourse  to  be 
undation  o 
;  success  o 
y  in  contact 
)w  exercise 
every  year, 
ue. 

in  what  are 
act  became 
Bay  Cora- 
he  trapping 
Minnesota ; 
our  govern- 
residing  on 
of  the  I'.alf- 
mt,  entirely 
alo  hunting 
,  with  those 


the  legislature  of  Minnesota  will  adopt,  as  early  as  practicable,  some 
means  of  alleviating  the  present  condition  of  these  people,  and  of  effecting 
objects  so  desirable  as  those  I  have  mentioned. 

I  ?!m,  with  great  respect,  your  obedient  servant, 

JOHN  POPE. 
Messrs.  McLean  &  Owens, 


id  populous 
these  can  at 
aid  of  your 
jroachments 
ories  be  en- 
ti  the  Indian 
i  Minnesota 
justice,  and 
hrow  open, 
lerce  of  the 
lited  States, 
npany,  pay- 


icerely  hope 


